I have been using varathane for a while on my bowls and I want something with more gloss. But I would like to be able to get it at Ace hardware or home depot. Any help welcomed.
Kyle
Kyle
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Bowl Finish
- Thread starter Kyle
- Start date
It seems like I have tried everything. The summer heat sures changes drying. Currently using this technique Sand all the way to 400-600. Apply one coat of Deft Clear Wood Finish. Let dry overnight sand at 600. Apply Mini-Wax Tung Oil Finish. After setting for a little bit buff with rag. 2 days later, Apply finish, buff. 2 days later apply final finish and buff. An old T-Shirt works Ok. So does Viva towels. Sure puts a high gloss and slick feel to wood. The segmented walnut bowl on the lathe pic I posted in the gallery has this finish. George Troy
Tung Oil
Does Tung Oil produce a high gloss finish on its own?
Also, does Teak Oil?
Does Tung Oil produce a high gloss finish on its own?
Also, does Teak Oil?
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I stay all in one family. If one is oil, all oil, if water (hardly ever), all water, lacquer/shellac same. Minwax wipe-on poly has been a reliable finish for me where I want a tough surface finish. All varnishes start as hard, high-gloss type, and are cut back with additives to make them satin or semi-gloss. This means the light is scattered within the film, with less brilliance to the wood as a result. Gloss varnish allows a clear look to the wood, but the smooth surface also flashes at any irregularity in the surface. For this reason, a lot of folks like to scar the final coat with steel wool or 600 wet/dry, cutting back on its reflectivity, or wax it, which adds some scatter due to molecular size of the wax. It's a compromise between a good view of the wood, and an embarassing view of the surface irregularities.
Lacquers and shellac are the normal choice for high-gloss finishes, because they can be buffed without fear of cutting through a coat. The "coats" bond chemically to each other with these two, not mechanically, making in effect one deep coat. With finest abrasives and a bit of lube, they can be made mirror-smooth.
Lacquers and shellac are the normal choice for high-gloss finishes, because they can be buffed without fear of cutting through a coat. The "coats" bond chemically to each other with these two, not mechanically, making in effect one deep coat. With finest abrasives and a bit of lube, they can be made mirror-smooth.
Best bet for a truly high gloss finish is either laquer/shellac or buffing it out with a Beall (no idea how that is actually spelled) type system. This is usually a 3 part buff done with a series of rotary buffing wheels mounted on a drill press or lathe, with EEE (tripoli) as the first buff, White Diamond as the second, and carnuba wax as the third. This kind of buff out will give a high gloss to a eurythane base, even a semi gloss one.
Laquer or shellac gives an even nicer polish with incredible depth but will show fingerprints and takes a bit more experience to get right. Still can't do it well myself.
Finally, a half dozen coats of Minwax paste wax over the eurythane base (after a brief bout with 0000 steel wool) will do OK in a pinch but it dulls over time.
Good luck,
Dietrich
Laquer or shellac gives an even nicer polish with incredible depth but will show fingerprints and takes a bit more experience to get right. Still can't do it well myself.
Finally, a half dozen coats of Minwax paste wax over the eurythane base (after a brief bout with 0000 steel wool) will do OK in a pinch but it dulls over time.
Good luck,
Dietrich
Shellawax.....Friction Pollish
I have a gallon of this shellawax cream. I use it for pens, but I was wondering if it would work for bowls.
I have a gallon of this shellawax cream. I use it for pens, but I was wondering if it would work for bowls.
Tung oil can in fact produce a high quality gloss finish. I've used it on about 40 pieces. I used "boiled" tung oil which is partially cured. Specifically I use Formby's Tung Oil and it is carried by Lowes. HomeDepot doesn't carry it, in Austin anyhow.
You can thin it during the last 2 or 3 coats and that helps avoid lines in the finish. I always buff out the piece after the last coat is cured to remove any fine lines or imperfections.
You can thin it during the last 2 or 3 coats and that helps avoid lines in the finish. I always buff out the piece after the last coat is cured to remove any fine lines or imperfections.
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Shellawax for bowls
From what I've encountered, you can't get up enough friction on bowls to properly 'melt' these type of finishes. On pens, you can get your application cloth really hot, which dissolves the wax and leaves the shellac nice and shiny. You just can't replicate that type of friction on bowls of any significant size.
From what I've encountered, you can't get up enough friction on bowls to properly 'melt' these type of finishes. On pens, you can get your application cloth really hot, which dissolves the wax and leaves the shellac nice and shiny. You just can't replicate that type of friction on bowls of any significant size.
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Shellawax and Krylon Matte Finish
I do not recommend Shellawax and other friction finishes for large items. Streaking and unevenness are usually problems.
Many people do not seem to know about Krylon Matte Finish (#1311). It is a spray that I usually get at Michaels. You may put one or two light coats on a bowl, let it dry thoroughly and then buff it. I buff with Tripoli and then wax. When this finish is sprayed on and it dries, it is as dull as dishwater. It looks like no finish is there. Then you buff it with Tripoli and there is an immediate shine that appears.
I think that the Matte Finish is a lacquer finish, but I have found it to be rather durable. We use an ambrosia maple bowl with this finish as a napkin bowl on the table. It's been in use for several years and it looks good. I may have rebuffed it - I can't remember.
My reason for mentioning the Krylon here is that anyone who wants to use Shellawax is interested in a quick result. Krylon can take you from no finish to a finished product in an hour or a little longer.
Caveat: If you overspray and use too much, the Krylon won't dry correctly and it should be wiped off with lacquer thinner and then sanded again. A couple of LIGHT coats means what it says.
I do not recommend Shellawax and other friction finishes for large items. Streaking and unevenness are usually problems.
Many people do not seem to know about Krylon Matte Finish (#1311). It is a spray that I usually get at Michaels. You may put one or two light coats on a bowl, let it dry thoroughly and then buff it. I buff with Tripoli and then wax. When this finish is sprayed on and it dries, it is as dull as dishwater. It looks like no finish is there. Then you buff it with Tripoli and there is an immediate shine that appears.
I think that the Matte Finish is a lacquer finish, but I have found it to be rather durable. We use an ambrosia maple bowl with this finish as a napkin bowl on the table. It's been in use for several years and it looks good. I may have rebuffed it - I can't remember.
My reason for mentioning the Krylon here is that anyone who wants to use Shellawax is interested in a quick result. Krylon can take you from no finish to a finished product in an hour or a little longer.
Caveat: If you overspray and use too much, the Krylon won't dry correctly and it should be wiped off with lacquer thinner and then sanded again. A couple of LIGHT coats means what it says.
Teak Oil?
I use gallons apon gallons apon gallons 😱 (you get the point) of teak oil on my boat. It dosnt harden into something like lacker but it does harden. Whould it work? 😕
I use gallons apon gallons apon gallons 😱 (you get the point) of teak oil on my boat. It dosnt harden into something like lacker but it does harden. Whould it work? 😕
Salad bowl finish
I currently use a product called Salad bowl finish. It is a product from General. Although you cannot get it at Home Depot but it is easly purchased through mail order from Woodchuckers in Toronto Can. It is a food safe product that actually makes this claim on its label. It is easy to use and can give you anything from a matt finish right up to a high gloss finish. It is used the same as most products and can also be buffed. Woodchuckers web site can be found at www.woodchuckers.com or by calling their 800 number at 1-800-551-0192.
Good luck Art
I currently use a product called Salad bowl finish. It is a product from General. Although you cannot get it at Home Depot but it is easly purchased through mail order from Woodchuckers in Toronto Can. It is a food safe product that actually makes this claim on its label. It is easy to use and can give you anything from a matt finish right up to a high gloss finish. It is used the same as most products and can also be buffed. Woodchuckers web site can be found at www.woodchuckers.com or by calling their 800 number at 1-800-551-0192.
Good luck Art
Jeff Jilg said:
NOTE that Formby's Tung Oil is thinned varnish with no "free oil" present like in an oil/varish blend or like boiled linseed oil.
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Art Deboo said:
Oh well, I still have a sage green nomex suit available.
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=175.300
No big deal to be "food safe" in contact.
Give it a shot (teak oil)! I've experimented quite a bit and found trial and error, mixed with research, to be the best concoction. I have yet to try teak oil so gimme a shout if you do. I don't own a boat, so I'll trade you some catalyzed lacquer for a fishing trip. :cool2:
Typically, if I'm applying a finish while the bowl is on the lathe or by hand-rubbing, I sand to 400, preferably to 600 grit. If I'm spraying something with a cup-gun, I sand to about 240. Also depends on the wood and the intended use.
My suggestion is to turn something out of some cheap--- preferably free-- wood. Check around at local hardwood stores and ask if you can browse their "dunnage"--- wood that's set on the floor to stack pallets of plywood/hardwoon on. These are occasionally 4" hunks of something cheap like poplar. Turn a small bowl out of it, or maybe a spindle if it's too thin. Give the teak oil a shot.
Also note, though, that oil finishes usually don't last that long, whereas the solvent based finishes like polyurathane and lacquer will last a good bit longer.
At Lowes you will likely find Deft clear lacquer. This will do fine. I personally don't use it b/c my cabinet shop is full of catalyzed lacquer, which is light years more durable than cellulose lacquer (which Deft is). It's also free, I get to plunder the leftovers of our paint booth.
Anyhow, just play around. I hit the "jackpot" at certain hardwood stores and I have dunnage, usually 2" square or bigger, made out of jatoba, red & white oak, mahogany, spanish cedar (I have a scraper handle made out of figured spanish cedar, quite sexy), and a few really dark, heavy woods I have yet to identify. Free stuff to play with abounds, just look.
Typically, if I'm applying a finish while the bowl is on the lathe or by hand-rubbing, I sand to 400, preferably to 600 grit. If I'm spraying something with a cup-gun, I sand to about 240. Also depends on the wood and the intended use.
My suggestion is to turn something out of some cheap--- preferably free-- wood. Check around at local hardwood stores and ask if you can browse their "dunnage"--- wood that's set on the floor to stack pallets of plywood/hardwoon on. These are occasionally 4" hunks of something cheap like poplar. Turn a small bowl out of it, or maybe a spindle if it's too thin. Give the teak oil a shot.
Also note, though, that oil finishes usually don't last that long, whereas the solvent based finishes like polyurathane and lacquer will last a good bit longer.
At Lowes you will likely find Deft clear lacquer. This will do fine. I personally don't use it b/c my cabinet shop is full of catalyzed lacquer, which is light years more durable than cellulose lacquer (which Deft is). It's also free, I get to plunder the leftovers of our paint booth.
Anyhow, just play around. I hit the "jackpot" at certain hardwood stores and I have dunnage, usually 2" square or bigger, made out of jatoba, red & white oak, mahogany, spanish cedar (I have a scraper handle made out of figured spanish cedar, quite sexy), and a few really dark, heavy woods I have yet to identify. Free stuff to play with abounds, just look.