-
January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details) -
Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details) -
Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
blochly cherry
- Thread starter Charlie Knighton
- Start date
Charlie, pre-conditioner is oil based and meant slow the absorption of pigmented stains to control stain blotch. Basically what you did was just add more oil. I've never tried it but I doubt if you can remove the oils with mineral spirits, I don't know how deep you would need to sand to remove an oil such as BLO or Tung.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 19
You need to get more finish on the piece to equalize.
The flat folks do one of two things to hide blotching, which is more obvious when a pigment stain is applied. First is to seal with a 1/2# cut of shellac or light lacquer before staining, second is to apply a glaze over a coat or two of finish. Both are really the same thing, adding enough finish to saturate, or at least bridge the endgrain and make it look similar to the flatsawn stuff which has maybe a bit of pitch or resin to shed oil. You can combine the two by using the finish to wet sand, but it takes visual depth out of endgrain that way.
It looked pretty good when it was wet, right? Make it "wet" permanently by getting a surface finish on it or burnish what you have. This is maple, but cherry stuff for looking not using looks great with a burnish as well.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Ten-By-Interior.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Ten-By-Rear.jpg
The flat folks do one of two things to hide blotching, which is more obvious when a pigment stain is applied. First is to seal with a 1/2# cut of shellac or light lacquer before staining, second is to apply a glaze over a coat or two of finish. Both are really the same thing, adding enough finish to saturate, or at least bridge the endgrain and make it look similar to the flatsawn stuff which has maybe a bit of pitch or resin to shed oil. You can combine the two by using the finish to wet sand, but it takes visual depth out of endgrain that way.
It looked pretty good when it was wet, right? Make it "wet" permanently by getting a surface finish on it or burnish what you have. This is maple, but cherry stuff for looking not using looks great with a burnish as well.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Ten-By-Interior.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Ten-By-Rear.jpg
The current issue of Fine Woodworking has a good article on dealing with cherry. My mag. just came a couple days back. Give it a read at your favorite magazine counter....