Best Steady Rest for Hollowing; Robust and Clark - Opinions?

[Edward Kerslake]

I've been turning increasingly large forms that have been pushing the limits of the Oneway steady rest that I've used for, over a decade (2 wheels on one side)

I've looked at all the DIY (not interested in making one) and purchased options from Carter, Steve Sinner, Robust and Keith Clark (The Spin Doctor)

I've narrowed it down to
(1) Robust (After 20 years with a PM 3520, I now own a Robust Lathe and it is...superb!)
(2) Clarke. (The Clark system has been around many years and it has been improved over the years)


Would any owners of these two have any feedback?

I am NOT asking for recommendations to DIY, I have my own reasons but am not interested in doing it.
For both systems, please let me know/ us know when you bought it as the systems have improved over the generations. For example; - The Clark product has been on market for decades AND has changed a lot and so some early (off-putting) complaints are no longer valid (e.g. newer systems are much lighter for lifting on to lathe, with a switch to aluminum wheel supports instead of steel)


Pros/Cons

Robust
- Excellent company, great customer service, excellent reputation and they make good stuff.
- Few owners (or at least very little feedback on this forum, Sawmillcreek or others)
- Adding additional wheels becomes quite costly
- Not as heavy as Clark / not as rigid?
Clark
- I found it hard to work out what came with the system (there are helpful YouTube videos by others)
- Website quite hard to navigate to help decide what's needed and what's an option

- new versions use angle steel (continuous 'L" shaped ring for additional rigidity
- MUCH beefier construction (made with 1/4" but can do 3/8" thick steel)
- Has a wrap-around base with support points below the ring ( to contact the lathe bed support / sides to add rigidity)
- Less expensive to have more wheels than standard.


Thanks in advance
Ed

 

[Daniel Henry]

I've been turning increasingly large forms that have been pushing the limits of the Oneway steady rest that I've used for, over a decade (2 wheels on one side)

I've looked at all the DIY (not interested in making one) and purchased options from Carter, Steve Sinner, Robust and Keith Clark (The Spin Doctor)

I've narrowed it down to
(1) Robust (After 20 years with a PM 3520, I now own a Robust Lathe and it is...superb!)
(2) Clarke. (The Clark system has been around many years and it has been improved over the years)


Would any owners of these two have any feedback?

I am NOT asking for recommendations to DIY, I have my own reasons but am not interested in doing it.
For both systems, please let me know/ us know when you bought it as the systems have improved over the generations. For example; - The Clark product has been on market for decades AND has changed a lot and so some early (off-putting) complaints are no longer valid (e.g. newer systems are much lighter for lifting on to lathe, with a switch to aluminum wheel supports instead of steel)


Pros/Cons

Robust
- Excellent company, great customer service, excellent reputation and they make good stuff.
- Few owners (or at least very little feedback on this forum, Sawmillcreek or others)
- Adding additional wheels becomes quite costly
- Not as heavy as Clark / not as rigid?
Clark
- I found it hard to work out what came with the system (there are helpful YouTube videos by others)
- Website quite hard to navigate to help decide what's needed and what's an option

- new versions use angle steel (continuous 'L" shaped ring for additional rigidity
- MUCH beefier construction (made with 1/4" but can do 3/8" thick steel)
- Has a wrap-around base with support points below the ring ( to contact the lathe bed support / sides to add rigidity)
- Less expensive to have more wheels than standard.


Thanks in advance
Ed

Ed, your dilemma is exactly what I went through earlier this year. And I decided the two best options for me were
Robust or Clark. For me Robust won out because the arms could be relocated around the ring and I liked the mounting bracket. My lathe is a PM 3520C.
PS: I have personally found Brent@Robust to be very supportive of this forum.

 

[Michael Nicholson]

I turn mostly large, deep hollow forms. Most of my turnings start with a large heavy burl with voids and bark inclusions. I choose Keith Clark’s steady rest. It’s so well made and stable even with heavy, out of balance turnings. Another advantage with Clark’s steady rests is that there all custom made. I discussed my needs with Keith before he fabricated my steady rest. The steady rest Keith built for me is ~24” diameter designed to fit my 4224 Powermatic. And it also works on my 3520 Powermatic. It has 7 arms made of 1” diameter solid aluminum tubes. The body is a 3x2x1/4” rolled angle. And it only weighs 31 pounds without the arms and 43 pounds with the arms. Rock solid. I think it’s the best steady rest for large, heavy, out of balance turnings.

 

[John Tisdale]

I've only used the Clark. Heaviest piece I had on it was a bit over 700-lbs - typical is always over 100. Mine is the earlier 8-wheel in steel - takes a bit of lifting - the 43 pound with arms sounds really good.
Keith is a great guy to work with - you'll be hugging yourself for going with his steady rest.

 

[bob elliott]

I've been turning increasingly large forms that have been pushing the limits of the Oneway steady rest that I've used for, over a decade (2 wheels on one side)

Or you could buy a used Oneway Steady rest with 2 wheels for the other side.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

John (Tisdale).
Thank you! Those images are great and looks a beast of a piece. Because your PDF didn't make it obvious that it contained pictures, I have attached it here so that (future) readers can see what your PDF contains and open it to see the contents and high resolution images.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

Or you could buy a used Oneway Steady rest with 2 wheels for the other side.

Bob
The Oneway rests are limited on how far apart (vertically) the wheels can be positioned. A second rest on the other side would be ok for smaller pieces but for larger diameter pieces, the support is only on either side without any vertical damping

 

[Edward Kerslake]

The reduction in weight from the earlier systems is really helpful!
I contacted Clark Systems this morning and chatted with Keith - super nice guy, long-time turner and clearly smart.

They have invested heavily in CNC tooling and machines and so, even though these rests are made to order and customized for the user and the machine, shipping time is a couple of weeks.
He confimed that there's been quite an evolution of the design over the years including the one-piece ring and significant weight reduction. There were other points, but the big takeway I had was the wrap-around base.I managed to find some images on the web after Keith and I spoke. They are included here. This used to be an 'option' but the benefit is so great that Keith has made it standard.

The purpose of the base was not obvious but after talking to Keith, it's clearly a BIG positive for this system. The rings terminate on those drop-down side plates and so the lateral force on the rings is transfered to the side plates and it doesn't (solely) rely on the clamping point on the top of the bed to reduce the deflection - kind of neat. Again, the exact design depends on the lathe (Oneway has a solid support, the Robust Lathe body is different)

 

[Randy Anderson]

I have a Clark steady rest and I tell folks I think I could spin a small car in the thing. It's solid and works great. I bought it for my 16" Jet and recently upgraded to a 24" Laguna. Keith fabricated a custom riser for it so I could keep the investment in the steady rest and use it on my new lathe. If you look on his web site you'll see pictures of it from my shop and I think he has them for sale on his site. He answers his phone, calls you back and will modify to what you need and make sure it works as you need it to.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

Thanks Randy.
I have decided on the Clark system, with probably 5 or 6 arms (or at least locations)

Given how tough it was to work out what comes with it, and what to order, I may continue this thread with what I elected to purchase and what the components are, with photos, so that future readers may benefit form my learning curve

 

[Darryn Achall]

Please do continue this thread. I have the Carter Multirest. It works well for medium sized pieces. It is usable for larger pieces if you are careful and meticulous. Something more solid is on my wish list.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

Darryn - will do!
I've continued to dig into these two steady rests. The Robust steady rest is lighter duty, made from 11 Gauge (that's 1/8" in inch fractions)






The Clark system is made from 1/4" or 3/8" which steel in a 2"x3" rolled ring.







Now, Brent makes an amazing lathe and for sure would not sell something that didn't meet user needs; but the Clark system will be more rigid.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

I got a direct message asking me about Steve Sinner's steady rest; also a good option.
One downside with the Sinner Steady is some loss of swing.
The Clark steady ring is 'outside' the lathe bed (if that statement makes sense) - the ring is larger in diameter than the swing of the lathe and the only reduction is the 1/2" thick plate which bolts it to the lathe.
As a result, the total loss of swing with the Clark system is about 1" vs ~5" for the Sinner (he doesn't have figures for 25" lathes so his 24" has a capacity of 20-1/4"

 

[Kevin Jenness]

Keep in mind that turning a large diameter piece taller than it is wide typically requires clearance for the banjo, so max. practical diameter on a 24" lathe would be under 20". Anything larger would mean working from either end of the blank rather than running the banjo under it.

 

[Richard Coers]

The best one in my opinion is DIY made of plywood and hard rollers. It sure doesn't have to be made of heavy steel, there is just not that much load on the rollers. I've been using my DIY for decades.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

Keep in mind that turning a large diameter piece taller than it is wide typically requires clearance for the banjo, so max. practical diameter on a 24" lathe would be under 20". Anything larger would mean working from either end of the blank rather than running the banjo under it.

Yes, that's what I do when making large Vessels. Usually used to get 19-1/4" out of my 3520b by sneaking up from either end. The Robust does give a lot more flexibility given its swing. Not much call for 24" bowls (unless for bathing kids!) ;-)
Frankly, it's rare that a 19"+ is desired

 

[Edward Kerslake]

The best one in my opinion is DIY made of plywood and hard rollers. It sure doesn't have to be made of heavy steel, there is just not that much load on the rollers. I've been using my DIY for decades.

I guess it depends what you are making. In conversation with Keith Clark, there's a reason he offers it in 3/8" or 1/4". It makes a difference.

Your DIY solution is an inexpensive approach and works well and has been achieved by many. I would rather spend the little time that I have making rather than building a tool

 

[Richard Coers]

I guess it depends what you are making. In conversation with Keith Clark, there's a reason he offers it in 3/8" or 1/4". It makes a difference.

Your DIY solution is an inexpensive approach and works well and has been achieved by many. I would rather spend the little time that I have making rather than building a tool

I build mine in a single day. You aren't that close to death are you? It will take you a week to get one you order. What is 3/8" or 1/4". There is so little load on a steady rest. I don't know anyone that hogs so much when hollowing that it will flex a plywood steady. Plus it needs very little precision. Of course Clark would tell you to buy a heavy steel one, that's what he sells. That rest shown with 8 wheels is a solution to a non problem.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Well I started with a plywood version that I used for a number of years and after seeing Steve Sinners and talking to Steve about it I purchased it and believe me there is a huge difference between what I was using and Steve's steady rest. Now seriously would you want a plywood lathe or an Iron/steel lathe, same thing to a different dimension.

 

[Randy Anderson]

I have a smaller homemade plywood steady that I use sometimes on small pieces just because it's lighter and I only need it for a short bit of hollowing. For hollowing larger pieces I go ahead and set up the Clark. When my blank is 30" long, 16" dia and weighs 175lbs I can't afford to have any wobble or torque on the end that will put it off center/balance.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I'm not going to say that it couldn't be done with a plywood steady rest, but this guy opted for a metal one. Brian McEvoy

 

[Richard Coers]

Well I started with a plywood version that I used for a number of years and after seeing Steve Sinners and talking to Steve about it I purchased it and believe me there is a huge difference between what I was using and Steve's steady rest. Now seriously would you want a plywood lathe or an Iron/steel lathe, same thing to a different dimension.

A steady rest won’t set the same stresses as a lathe. The hollow form already has the outside diameter finish turned and balanced. All the steady rest is doing is supporting the end of the vessel to remove the inside with a 3/16" bit.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

After posting the info from the Robust website above, I contact the company and learned (from Brent) that the website page was out of date and that the design is no longer a tube but is a rolled angle iron ring and now of a thicker material.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

I made the decision to move ahead and get the Clark steady rest. Also opted for Keith's Hollowing system. I went with 6 wheels which provides enough flexibility for the very large forms I've wanted to attempt.
Thanks to all who contributed and I will continue to update this thread.

 

[Edward Kerslake]

Wow!
I contacted Keith after ordering to inquire as to whether the lathe would be here in time for the holidays.
He told me it should ship next week and included a photographs of the completed ring, ready for paint!
I can't complain!

 

[Edward Kerslake]

The hollowing system and Steady Rest arrived yesterday. I am BLOWN away at the quality. This is a solid piece of kit and exceptionally well made. The bearings in the hollowing system are tight and the tolerances are spot on.

I will try and get photographs of the system installed on my Robust AB as soon as I get through Thanksgiving.

I called Keith Clark today to thank him for the great product and such prompt delivery and we got to talking about the forum.

Keith is kindly going to offer a Black Friday discount for AAWforum members.

Reach out to Keith directly through his website and mention "AAWForumBF2024" and also include the name you have on this forum.
I thought I would pass this along. Keith's pricing is already very good and the additional discount will be gravy

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Happy Thanksgiving to all

 

[Edward Kerslake]

Back from a hectic travel schedule and finally have an opportunity to give some feedback on the Steady rest and show how well it fits the Robust.

The steady rest and the accessories are of excellent quality and workmanship. As an example, the handles that are used to adjust the arms from the wheels appear to be custom machined from Aluminum - awesome and really big and functional


The clamping point to the bed of the lathe is recessed so that the swing is not reduced beyond the 3/8" thickness of the ring cross section. The 15/16 bolt clamps through a stainless plate, bolted below the transverse attachment point and below into the plate between the ways.
As you can see from this next picture, the Steady Rest is SOLID!! It's as thick as the bed of the lathe. Note in this image I have only placed the steady rest finger tight and so it's not fully clamped down onto the bed




The ring of the steady rest is one continuous 'L" angle (it reminds me of a railway wheel) and the holes for the arms are welded onto it. I chose to have 6 holes/arms but you can have (many) more.


The clamping/reinforcement method of the Clark Steady Rest is different from the others on the market (and one of the reasons I chose it)
The ring clamps not only to the bed of the lathe (holding it DOWN) but also clamps to the side of the lathe so it can't move SIDE to SIDE). For the American Beauty, which has strengthening ribs below the bed, the steady rest has a support bracket below the ring and at an angle to the clamping surface of the bed ways that matches the angle of the ribs below the ways. To bridge between the ribs, an additional piece of box section is supplies which can be adjusted to any position and will always span at least two ribs - it works well.











The ring itself is continuous and not welded (it's really very, very solid!)

 

[Edward Kerslake]

Here's a photo of the angle from which the rest is fabricated