I need to restock, thin, medium and thick. Any brands better than the others? There's quite difference in cost between, say, Instabond and Hot Stuff on the woodturnerscatalog website. I've used Starbond, Hot Stuff, 2P10 and Stickfast without noticing any particular difference, but maybe I'm missing something.
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best (?) ca glue
- Thread starter Kevin Jenness
- Start date
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
Good question, following. The labeling doesn't provide enough information to tell, in general whether the formulations indeed differ from brand to brand. Any adhesives chemists in the crowd?
I'd cheerfully pay a lot more for a bottle that permitted small amounts to be dispensed and didn't almost immediately glue itself shut, despite best efforts to clear the tip after using the glue. I don't use a ton of CA, and certainly not on an everyday basis, so whenever I do want to use it the process begins with a frustrating session of trying to unglue the tips so the glue will come out. I've been trying a process of storing the tips in a jar of acetone so that they are clean when I want to use them, but now I'm finding with taking the lids on and off the bottles that they are adhering to the bottles between uses (Hot Stuff bottles). I had one the other day where I tried a pair of pliers to loosen the top and ended up tearing the bottle and distributing glue all over the place. Not fun.
I'd cheerfully pay a lot more for a bottle that permitted small amounts to be dispensed and didn't almost immediately glue itself shut, despite best efforts to clear the tip after using the glue. I don't use a ton of CA, and certainly not on an everyday basis, so whenever I do want to use it the process begins with a frustrating session of trying to unglue the tips so the glue will come out. I've been trying a process of storing the tips in a jar of acetone so that they are clean when I want to use them, but now I'm finding with taking the lids on and off the bottles that they are adhering to the bottles between uses (Hot Stuff bottles). I had one the other day where I tried a pair of pliers to loosen the top and ended up tearing the bottle and distributing glue all over the place. Not fun.
I no longer use CA glue, but when I did, I found the best approach was simply to leave the cap off. The opening did not clog, the glue remained good for months in a dry basement shop. I think I found this worked for both thin and medium CA. I started doing this after having it recommended. Sounded strange, but worked very well for me. I hate the fumes, and it is brittle in the long term, so I stopped using it. I don't do things like pens, where CA is apparently a popular finish.
I rarely have a problem with tips clogging as I make sure the spout is clear after use. I'm not a big CA user so a 2 oz bottle sitting in the shop usually sets up before it's finished whether capped or not. I plan to get a tupperware bin and some reusable dessicant to deal with that problem (no frig in the shop), but I would like to know if any specific brands perform better as to strength or shelf life.
Roger - Starbond lists the chemical compositions on their Safety Data Sheets: https://starbond.com/pages/safety-data Perhaps other suppliers do as well.
I buy most of my CA from Starbond, so can't make a good comparison with other suppliers. I like that Starbond gives you extra tips and microtips so you can remove and replace them when they plug instead of trying to clean them.
I often use the "odorless thin" CA from Starbond (NO-O5, Methoxyethyl-2-cyanoacrylate) since it gives off less fumes than standard grade (EM-02, Superfast Thin, Ethyl cyanoacrylate with a bit of hydroquinone). The odorless is a bit thicker/higher viscosity, doesn't wick into small cracks as well as the Superfast. It also seems to me to have shorter shelf life; it doesn't gel solid, but seems to thicken slowly with time. But it is much less irritating to work with.
At some point I'd like to experiment with the slower curing CA's that are promoted for finishing larger items like bowls. Parfix 3408 and Gluboost are two examples.
What experiments did you make with glues? What type of glue do you use now?
Most CA goes brittle with age; museum conservation standards simply bar the use of CA due to how it ages. Given my reaction to CA fumes, and simple distaste for the smell, I simply stopped using it at all. I don't miss it, so even low-fume versions aren't of interest. When I glue something, I want a durable, strong, longterm bond. I use Titebond, usually Titebond II. I use lacquer, acrylic, or oil-based for finishing. It's what works *for me* and the types of things I make; CA doesn't have any advantages for me.
I alternate between StickFast and Starbond. Don't see a difference between them but as Dave says I order Starbond from time to time to get the extra caps and tips. I put the conehead caps back on and seldom have an issue with them clogging or the glue going bad. If I do it's because I was sloppy while using it and got a lot into the cap or left the tip with a mess on the end. I mostly only use it for dealing with cracks in things while they're drying and will sometimes put it on sawdust or chips I've packed into a small knothole I choose to fill.
Do you have a reference for this?
I know CA is brittle from the get-go, weak in shear, which is why I use it primarily for filling small cracks and splits and in non-stressed small joints. Is it a documented fact that it breaks down over time?
To clear the tip after I finish using the CA I clean the outside of the tip with a tissue or paper towel and then tap the base of the container on the bed of the lathe to clear the inside of excess adhesive. Then I replace the top cap. Seems to work for me.
For those that do not use CA what alternatives do you use especially for small cracks. Which is where I use it most
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
That's exactly what I try to do, without your success. Must be the wrist action with the tapping ;-)
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
Tried that, no joy in my shop.
I normally use Stickiest, but have used other brands. Can’t say there is much difference. I do use the glue tips on both thin and thick. The are cheap and work well on both thin and thick. On thick just cut the end a little shorter and if it closes just cut a little off.
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
I quite like the microtips for application, if I leave them on I find that the glue makes a clog at the junction, not out at the tip.
If I pull the tips off between use and try to clear the end by blotting and tapping then the bottle top just clogs as usual.
If I pull the tips off between use and try to clear the end by blotting and tapping then the bottle top just clogs as usual.
I have heard these claims before, like the CA will not last and it will crack again, become brittle etc.
Well, I have been using CA (hot stuff) for better than 25 years, and have never noticed anything fall apart because the CA has given up, I do like the way CA will wick into hairline splits and know of no other glue/filler that will do that as well.
I've made hundreds of Birdhouse ornaments, they all get pieces glued on with CA (roofs pegs finials) and never had any of those fall apart.
I suppose there could be differences between CA makes, but never noticed any other than for the price
.
CA will react with moisture, so if you live in/near a warm swamp you probably have problems with the tips clogging.
If you have some airtight container with desiccant in it, that should help, for me when using CA, I will as soon as done, squeeze the bottle to clear the tip and wipe the tip with a rag (watch the use of paper/tissue, it can accelerate the CA and burn your fingers DAMHIKT).
I normally also squeeze the thin tips, and usually have them last for quite awhile without clogging.
Well, I have been using CA (hot stuff) for better than 25 years, and have never noticed anything fall apart because the CA has given up, I do like the way CA will wick into hairline splits and know of no other glue/filler that will do that as well.
I've made hundreds of Birdhouse ornaments, they all get pieces glued on with CA (roofs pegs finials) and never had any of those fall apart.
I suppose there could be differences between CA makes, but never noticed any other than for the price
.CA will react with moisture, so if you live in/near a warm swamp
you probably have problems with the tips clogging.If you have some airtight container with desiccant in it, that should help, for me when using CA, I will as soon as done, squeeze the bottle to clear the tip and wipe the tip with a rag (watch the use of paper/tissue, it can accelerate the CA and burn your fingers DAMHIKT)
.I normally also squeeze the thin tips, and usually have them last for quite awhile without clogging.
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Dave Landers
Beta Tester
Yeah, I have limited success with the tap-down technique. I use a little CA, not too often. I use the microtips on starbond and find I can't always get it tapped down enough. For me, trying to squeeze the CA out of the tip just makes a mess.
I've started doing something that does seem to work: I loosen the cap, squeeze the bottle (air goes out the cap threads not the tip) and then re-tighten the cap and let go - it sucks the CA down out of the tip and back into the bottle.
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Starbond user here, as well. Also have used Titebond's CA glue. little if any difference in the glue itself, is my impression, but I love how Starbond includes the microtips , extra nozzles and caps, and even a pin or two to re-open clogged tips. But like Dave, I loosen nozzle to squeeze out air, then tighten down before letting go of the squeeze it sucks the glue back down so the nozzle doesn't clog. Microtips, I rarely use, so I have a hefty supply of them, so I'll just remove 'em after use and toss 'em.
For CA finishing I now only use GluBoost, just so much easier. For everything else I use Starbond.
I, too, have used a variety of brands, and if you only use a little, any differences are insignificant. Except, hardware store tiny tubes are useless. And Starbond 'thin' is miraculously thin, which is great for wicking, but very hard to control.
Another thing to remember is if you use the accelerator it makes it brittle. If you let the CA glue dry on its own it is much stronger.
My go to adhesive when not using CA glue is Eclectic E6000, this adhesive will hold any dissimilar materials together and stays pliable.
When wood expands and contracts from summer to winter from changes in humidity this allows for this movement.
When wood expands and contracts from summer to winter from changes in humidity this allows for this movement.
i bought some cheap plastic eyedroppers, drilled a small hole in the cap of a small glass bottle, half filled with acetone and keep the eye dropper in there. Now I only have to unscrew the top off the CA bottle and with the eye dropper remove what i need. Able to precisely place the glue with the dropper on the workpiece. No more fighting with the clogged tips etc. Works well for thin and medium viscosities.
Like others have said I don’t seem to notice any difference between brands.
E6000 Craft – Eclectic Products
eclecticproducts.com
Tom Gall
TOTW Team
No. It is just like silicone (caulking). Maybe, just a little thinner.I see it's sold in a tube. How viscous is it? Would it wick into a crack?E6000 Craft – Eclectic Products
Stick Fast sells a set with precisely this arrangement: a clear plastic container with a wide screw-on lid; dessicant; thin, medium, and thick viscosities of CA glue; and a set of replaceable tips. It's been eye-opening. I'd had similar problems with CA glue bottles permanently clogging, and so far this set has worked wonderfully. No clogged CA glue at all in over a year, maybe two, of modest use.
As for the tips, I keep some long pins around to clear the precision tips of CA and other glues. Clover Flower Head pins work great for this. You can get them in small packs, or might be able to get a few from a fiber artist friend you know, esp. knitters and sewists.
I also use Starbond. I noticed when I went from leaving it on the workbench to putting it in the refrigerator, it lasts a lot longer. I don't put a cap on it, just leave the micro-tip.
I have been using Starbond for 25 years but recently switched to Parfix brand. The delivery container is far superior to the Starbond. (I had a starbond 2oz that split wide open in a closet..what a mess and while i was cleaning it up the paper towels started to smoke .. scary).
The Parfix 3408 superglue has a special 40-second activation delay which allows you to use it as a one-coat finish. I learned about it from a post at this forum. It is not widely advertised but I am glad I found it. I will never go back.
The Parfix 3408 superglue has a special 40-second activation delay which allows you to use it as a one-coat finish. I learned about it from a post at this forum. It is not widely advertised but I am glad I found it. I will never go back.
Today I ordered another 8oz bottle of 3408. There’s no one I found selling Parfix CA glues any cheaper than demonstrator/teacher Mark Sillay. Here’s another demonstration video I found showing how to apply 3408:
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Gluboost is great.
I have been using the CA glue from Bob Smith Industries, for years before I started turning, when I was making balsa gliders. The local Toy and Hobby store switched from 'Hot Stuff' to the Bob Smith stuff, and I haven't seen any reason to change from it, and I do like to buy local. A side note, when I use the 2 part epoxies, the big box stores all seem to have switched exclusively to the 5 minute stuff from the 30 minute stuff, which I prefer for longer open time. Bob Smith also has that available. Squirt some into a glue syringe, mix with a bamboo skewer, and then put in the plunger. Almost no waste, and you can get the whole tube of 2 part epoxy used without having it all set up on you....
robo hippy
robo hippy
If using CA glue as a finish then Parfix 3408 beats BSI no-odor Super-Gold thin CA glue which has cure time of only 2 to 3 seconds. As demonstrated, Parfix 3408 CA is no odor with an open time of 40 seconds which allows it to be wiped on and then off the surface in order to avoid a plastic surface that can eventually crack. I realize a sub-surface finish might a different need than what the original poster wanted.
Not trying to degrade the grest BSI products, but what impresses me about Parsons Adhesives is they make just about every type of CA glue out there. Only problem Parsons Parfix CA glue is it’s sold by the case. That’s why I suggested buying from Mark Sillay because his individual 8oz bottle prices is as close to the case price as you’ll find anywhere.
I’ll keep in mind what you said about 30 minute epoxy next time I’m buying some. Thanks for the info.
Other sources for Parflix are:
kappskreations.com
His video of finishing with parfix 3408 varies slightly from yours:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8oSohXAD_Y
www.thewoodturningstore.com
I always thought that a CA finish was limited to small items like pens where you needed a mass amount of coats to get a beautiful finish. Because of its delayed drying time, it can be used on larger pieces and one coat will yield a beautiful gloss finish!
Parfix Ca Glue
ALL PRICES BELOW HAVE SHIPPING INCLUDED TO ANYWHERE IN THE USA OTHERS NEED TO CONTACT ME FOR SHIPPING ARANGMENTS 2 oz bottles of glueGet these 2 2oz bottles of glue to get started finishing with th…
kappskreations.com
www.thewoodturningstore.com
I always thought that a CA finish was limited to small items like pens where you needed a mass amount of coats to get a beautiful finish. Because of its delayed drying time, it can be used on larger pieces and one coat will yield a beautiful gloss finish!
I have heard these claims before, like the CA will not last and it will crack again, become brittle etc.
Well, I have been using CA (hot stuff) for better than 25 years, and have never noticed anything fall apart because the CA has given up, I do like the way CA will wick into hairline splits and know of no other glue/filler that will do that as well.
I've made hundreds of Birdhouse ornaments, they all get pieces glued on with CA (roofs pegs finials) and never had any of those fall apart.
I suppose there could be differences between CA makes, but never noticed any other than for the price
CA will react with moisture, so if you live in/near a warm swamp
If you have some airtight container with desiccant in it, that should help, for me when using CA, I will as soon as done, squeeze the bottle to clear the tip and wipe the tip with a rag (watch the use of paper/tissue, it can accelerate the CA and burn your fingers DAMHIKT)
I normally also squeeze the thin tips, and usually have them last for quite awhile without clogging.
This has been my experience as well, over 17 years no issues. I dont think it goes that brittle but rather its not exactly flexible and wood moves. I use a lot of very dark hardwood and its proved to be ideal in dealing any fine cracks or check. I started out with various brand names, thick , thin etc. These days I just buy the cheap no brand CA, does the job just fine for me.I have heard these claims before, like the CA will not last and it will crack again, become brittle etc.
Well, I have been using CA (hot stuff) for better than 25 years, and have never noticed anything fall apart because the CA has given up, I do like the way CA will wick into hairline splits and know of no other glue/filler that will do that as well.
I've made hundreds of Birdhouse ornaments, they all get pieces glued on with CA (roofs pegs finials) and never had any of those fall apart.
I suppose there could be differences between CA makes, but never noticed any other than for the price
CA will react with moisture, so if you live in/near a warm swamp
If you have some airtight container with desiccant in it, that should help, for me when using CA, I will as soon as done, squeeze the bottle to clear the tip and wipe the tip with a rag (watch the use of paper/tissue, it can accelerate the CA and burn your fingers DAMHIKT)
I normally also squeeze the thin tips, and usually have them last for quite awhile without clogging.