Rodney,
I'll echo Bill's comments and go a bit further. Wax of any kind on treenware is a waste of time; it'll be mostly gone after a few washings because it doesn't penetrate wood pores, and any dish detergent (especially with even a smidge of ammonia in it) will strip it right off.
Second, you're treating your oil finish as if it were a solvent finish, and will weaken its effectiveness. "Drying Oil" finishes [refined walnut, linseed, tung, soy, etc.] cure and mature by a process known as polymerization were the oil and resin molecules take in oxygen and chemically form new molecules that link up to form a film. That process may be effected by your heating, but not necessarily in the way you're seeking, as the bonds may be weak because all you're actually doing is driving out the carrier solvents rather than allowing them to be "outgassed" gradually as a function of the polymerization/linking process. Oil finishes actually take several weeks or months to fully polymerize and cure. Rushing them results in weak films. There are any number of good books on wood finishing; Jeff Jewitt, Bob Flexner, or Michael Dresdner have done some of the best. If you read up on how the finishes work, you'll have a better understanding of what to do or not do in a given situation.
For my treenware (food-use) I prefer a mineral oil soak, and then use a cooked combination of mineral oil and parafin wax (85/15 mix) to give a bit of extra sheen to the surface. With each bowl goes a 1/4 cup container of the oil/wax paste so the owner can "refresh" the finish. It's a cheap and effective finish that pops the grain but is completely edible by anyone as it leaches out in use.
m
