I've been watching Richard Raffan's Youtube posts, and I like the way he crayons on beeswax, then touches it up with a cloth. My efforts so far have not been so successful. I'm working with aspen, and when I apply the wax it doesn't flow on to an even coat - some areas are built up and crusty, and need to be addressed with steel wool and/or linseed oil. It's winter here, and the shop temps are in the 50s - I'm thinking that may be the issue. Any suggestions?
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Bees wax issues
- Thread starter David Witton
- Start date
Hi, David. Take a look at Richard's basic bowl video
View: https://youtu.be/nPPvtP2bbkg?t=223
I bet you are right on the room temperature being closer to 70 degrees. Also, the first rag he uses is full of wax to help coat all of the surfaces. Then, he uses a clean rag to polish and remove excess.
I bet you are right on the room temperature being closer to 70 degrees. Also, the first rag he uses is full of wax to help coat all of the surfaces. Then, he uses a clean rag to polish and remove excess.
In other videos, including his very recent ones, Richard does lather on the BLO then moments later applies wax from a bar.
I intend to try this finish method but currently only have "pearls" of bees wax that I've generally melted down with mineral oil to make a paste.
I bet if you asked your question on one of his YouTube videos you'd get an answer. If you try you'll have to update us here though.
I intend to try this finish method but currently only have "pearls" of bees wax that I've generally melted down with mineral oil to make a paste.
I bet if you asked your question on one of his YouTube videos you'd get an answer. If you try you'll have to update us here though.
The bees wax needs the heat generated by friction to melt and get into the wood. You need some speed and a cloth towel and pressure to create the friction needed.
Warming the wax in the house or in your pocket might also help.
Bees wax is quite soft, but still needs some heat or solvents for it to flow. Most commercial 'bowl finishes' are bees wax and mineral oil. It offers almost no protection from water and will show finger tips, but it does leave a nice soft feel to the bowl. I like the walnut oil finishes, in particular from the Doctor's Woodshop. He used carnuba wax. Not sure how he does it, he is a chemist, but his wax flows without heat. Carnuba, which is from palm trees, is far harder than bees wax.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
You need to apply enough pressure at a high enough speed to heat up and melt the wax-- hot enough to make your fingers uncomfortable if you're using only a few thicknesses of cloth. You should see the wax liquefying and spreading as you apply the pressure. I typically run my lathe as fast as it will go while doing this and push pretty hard. Make sure there's no way the pad you're rubbing with can wrap around or catch in the work; I use a very small pad, perhaps a 2-3" square of tee shirt or blue paper towel folded over several times.
You can mix the wax with mineral oil and heat it to melt it together into a soft paste that you can just rub on. The mineral oil will evaporate over time leaving the wax behind.
As Robo points out, wax is pretty (for a while) but offers little protection. I find the shine fades out and dries up after a couple years. It's a finish I only use if someone is insistent on a "natural, organic, gluten and nut-free" finish.
You can mix the wax with mineral oil and heat it to melt it together into a soft paste that you can just rub on. The mineral oil will evaporate over time leaving the wax behind.
As Robo points out, wax is pretty (for a while) but offers little protection. I find the shine fades out and dries up after a couple years. It's a finish I only use if someone is insistent on a "natural, organic, gluten and nut-free" finish.
Aspen is not particularly hard. See if you get a different result with a harder wood.