Now that I have been trying to turn for a few months, I am ready to really do something with my efforts by finishing the pieces I turn. After exhaustive research on this forum and other places, I have decided to try Watco Danish Oil for the finish followed by buffing. Now the question: Which is the better buffing system? If you have experience with the Beall or Pencil systems (especially if you have used both) or something else I have not mentioned, any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
-
Congratulations to Alex Bradley winner of the December 2024 Turning Challenge (click here for details) -
Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details) -
Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Beall vs Pencil vs Something better & cheaper?
- Thread starter gary7
- Start date
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 19
I'm still using the Menards system. Bought both the buffs and the compounds there. Unable to report on the other "systems," though from others' work I've handled at shows, the results look the same. I'm on a 1725 JET buffer rather than a lathe. Until January I was on a double-ended (one end 5/8, one 1/2) half horse Sears motor with work arbors. Tried working on the lathe, but it didn't seem to gain anything by doing so. Lower speed can be compensated by less pressure and more movement. Got the goblet buffs from Packard, which come in handy inside small stuff.
Gary,
I have used Watco danish oil and now am using Deft danish and am happy with it and not only because it's cheaper for me. I'm also using the Beal buffing system and I'm also happy with that. Lately I'm begining to feel I'm using too much oil, sometimes three and even four coats and not always wipeing the excess off on the later coats. Thus, it's not drying completely (I think) and (I think) causing smears on the buffing process.
Be careful of buffing lighter color compounds on dark woods (walnut) as it will fill in the grain with the off color.
I have used Watco danish oil and now am using Deft danish and am happy with it and not only because it's cheaper for me. I'm also using the Beal buffing system and I'm also happy with that. Lately I'm begining to feel I'm using too much oil, sometimes three and even four coats and not always wipeing the excess off on the later coats. Thus, it's not drying completely (I think) and (I think) causing smears on the buffing process.
Be careful of buffing lighter color compounds on dark woods (walnut) as it will fill in the grain with the off color.
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2004
- Messages
- 43
- Likes
- 0
- Location
- lincoln, nebraska
- Website
- woodturners.underthecouch.com
Beall user
I have the three mop system by beall and am quite satisfied with it. I also have three of the larger beall goblet buffs. These seem a bit stiff/hard. I'd like to hear from a Pencil owner (or others) about their experience with goblet buffs.
I have the three mop system by beall and am quite satisfied with it. I also have three of the larger beall goblet buffs. These seem a bit stiff/hard. I'd like to hear from a Pencil owner (or others) about their experience with goblet buffs.
Hi Rick,
I have the goblet buffs from Jerry Beall. I also found them too stiff. About a year ago I bought the bowl buffs from Jerry. They are much softer and work really well on the smaller sized bowls. They deform a little, just like the big buffing wheels. I am very happy with them. The goblet buffs just set on the shelf collecting dust. 🙂
Best wishes,
Dave
I have the goblet buffs from Jerry Beall. I also found them too stiff. About a year ago I bought the bowl buffs from Jerry. They are much softer and work really well on the smaller sized bowls. They deform a little, just like the big buffing wheels. I am very happy with them. The goblet buffs just set on the shelf collecting dust. 🙂
Best wishes,
Dave
Last edited:
Just practice the oil first
Gary
The oil finish seems to have its own learning curve. My advice would be to practice that and just hand buff with an old t-shirt for awhile. I made a buff out of old blue jeans that I have used for about a year and have just started shopping for a Beall like system. I suspect there are other tools on your list and maybe this one can wait, don't cross it off just move in down the priority a notch or two.
But while we are on the subject what ore the pros & cons of the three buffs on the mandrel vs using the individual buffs.
Frank
Gary
The oil finish seems to have its own learning curve. My advice would be to practice that and just hand buff with an old t-shirt for awhile. I made a buff out of old blue jeans that I have used for about a year and have just started shopping for a Beall like system. I suspect there are other tools on your list and maybe this one can wait, don't cross it off just move in down the priority a notch or two.
But while we are on the subject what ore the pros & cons of the three buffs on the mandrel vs using the individual buffs.
Frank
buff vs 3 buff
I have both the 3 buff system and the singles. If your doing smaller items then the 3 buff system is handier, but on larger items you may have trouble getting between the wheels w/o buffing your fingers as well. I use the goblet buffs on the inside of smaller items where the 8 inch buffs won't get to the bottom or will catch on the lip and try to pull it out of your hand.
Vernon
I have both the 3 buff system and the singles. If your doing smaller items then the 3 buff system is handier, but on larger items you may have trouble getting between the wheels w/o buffing your fingers as well. I use the goblet buffs on the inside of smaller items where the 8 inch buffs won't get to the bottom or will catch on the lip and try to pull it out of your hand.
Vernon
I have read about all the damages from the Beall system. I wonder if the advantages make up for any lost of a turning you have spent hours doing, let alone the wood. I have the complete system but don't really need it. I find that a seal coat of lacquer, then followed by an oil finish sanded in several times works pretty good. Buffing does help get rid of the frizzes, but not if you burn the finish off. GT
Well I don't know George. For some guys like me who use oil finishes they dry slower. That slow drying formula is a magnet for dust. It doesn't look bad but it makes for a bumpy surface. Once that type of finish gets buffed out it looks great. But if it doesn't get buffed at all, the finished piece with the rough surface does not feel very good at all.
I have always had a problem with dust in the finish. And didn't someone post something about that on this forum in the last year? I think they spent a lot of time building a dust free finish booth. And still the dust got in there.
I have always had a problem with dust in the finish. And didn't someone post something about that on this forum in the last year? I think they spent a lot of time building a dust free finish booth. And still the dust got in there.