I need to replace the wax my Beall buff uses and wondered if there was anything different or better that anyone recommends before i order more?
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
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Beall Buff Wax
- Thread starter Wipedout
- Start date
I just get the carnuba wax from Woodcraft. Works fine for me. 🙂
Matt
Matt
Lots of places have tripoli and white diamond. I have seen it at Lowes, HD, Harbor Frieght, and Sears to name a few. There is even a Ryobi brand of Tripoli that is silica free.
Thanks - those arent a problem - just wondering if there is a better wax to use
I'm no expert on waxes, but Carnuba is harder and more durable than most.
I guess the bottom line depends on your objectives for using wax.
Many (if not all) of the paste waxes do not need the friction-heat of the buffing system.
HTH
I guess the bottom line depends on your objectives for using wax.
Many (if not all) of the paste waxes do not need the friction-heat of the buffing system.
HTH
I did a quick search and found this. I hope Russ Fairfield doesn't mind if I repost his comments on wax here:
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Non-drying oils are easier to sell in a salad bowl because they don't have to be explained. They are simple, and people like "simple". The answer to the question, "Is it safe for food", is a simple - "Yes, it is the same oil you put on your salads". The answer to the question, "How do I take care of it", is also simple - "Rinse with water, wipe dry, and coat with the same oil you are using on your salad , or for cooking". Every other finish on a salad bowl has to be explained; and people don't trust "explanations".
"Beeswax" has been around longer than any other thing we can put on a piece of wood. It has to have some enduring and endearing qualities for it to still be used several thousand years later. It is becoming popular again because it is a natural product, and not one that came out of an oil refinery.
Wilford's Beeswax and Turpentine is a good finish because of two things. It is 100% natural beewax that hasn't been diluted and altered with cheaper paraffin, and the natural oils and turpines in "real" turpentine enhance the durability of the beeswax. Other thinners do not have these natural oils and turpines.
Carnauba is one of the hardest and most durable waxes we can put on a piece of wood. The reason that buffed Carnauba is better than one that has been applied as a paste is because buffing is about the only way we can apply a pure carnauba wax without heating until it is a liquid. All paste waxes and most friction sticks are a mixture of carnauba and softer waxes (usually paraffin) to make it easier to apply. A little bit of Carnauba will improve the durability of beewax or paraffin, but it will never come close to the hardness and durability of a pure carnauba. The higher the Carnauba content, the more resistant the wax will be to water spotting or damage.
Buffing also does a couple other things for the carnauba wax. All waxes are better when it is a thinner coating on the surface, and wax likes to be abraded and compacted on the surface. Wax also likes a little heat to soften it when it is applied. Thin, buffing, and heat come easier with a powered buffing wheel than by hand with a cloth or paper towel.
The biggest problem with buffing on a Carnauba wax is that we almost always put on too much. It take a really conscious effort to apply what appears to be almost nothing, which is always the best when using a wax. If it feels "sticky" there is too much wax on the surface.
Buffing with a stiff bristle brush will improve all paste waxes. It removes the excess wax to leave a thinner coating, and it abrades and compacts wax that thinner coating on the surface. You might try the vigorous brushing the next time you put too much on with the buffing wheel. I use a brush that was made for horse grooming.
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Non-drying oils are easier to sell in a salad bowl because they don't have to be explained. They are simple, and people like "simple". The answer to the question, "Is it safe for food", is a simple - "Yes, it is the same oil you put on your salads". The answer to the question, "How do I take care of it", is also simple - "Rinse with water, wipe dry, and coat with the same oil you are using on your salad , or for cooking". Every other finish on a salad bowl has to be explained; and people don't trust "explanations".
"Beeswax" has been around longer than any other thing we can put on a piece of wood. It has to have some enduring and endearing qualities for it to still be used several thousand years later. It is becoming popular again because it is a natural product, and not one that came out of an oil refinery.
Wilford's Beeswax and Turpentine is a good finish because of two things. It is 100% natural beewax that hasn't been diluted and altered with cheaper paraffin, and the natural oils and turpines in "real" turpentine enhance the durability of the beeswax. Other thinners do not have these natural oils and turpines.
Carnauba is one of the hardest and most durable waxes we can put on a piece of wood. The reason that buffed Carnauba is better than one that has been applied as a paste is because buffing is about the only way we can apply a pure carnauba wax without heating until it is a liquid. All paste waxes and most friction sticks are a mixture of carnauba and softer waxes (usually paraffin) to make it easier to apply. A little bit of Carnauba will improve the durability of beewax or paraffin, but it will never come close to the hardness and durability of a pure carnauba. The higher the Carnauba content, the more resistant the wax will be to water spotting or damage.
Buffing also does a couple other things for the carnauba wax. All waxes are better when it is a thinner coating on the surface, and wax likes to be abraded and compacted on the surface. Wax also likes a little heat to soften it when it is applied. Thin, buffing, and heat come easier with a powered buffing wheel than by hand with a cloth or paper towel.
The biggest problem with buffing on a Carnauba wax is that we almost always put on too much. It take a really conscious effort to apply what appears to be almost nothing, which is always the best when using a wax. If it feels "sticky" there is too much wax on the surface.
Buffing with a stiff bristle brush will improve all paste waxes. It removes the excess wax to leave a thinner coating, and it abrades and compacts wax that thinner coating on the surface. You might try the vigorous brushing the next time you put too much on with the buffing wheel. I use a brush that was made for horse grooming.
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