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Bandsaw

tdrice

tdrice

Joined
Apr 25, 2006
Messages
115
Likes
51
Location
Coos Bay, OR
My old bench top bandsaw finally died and I need to replace it. Unfortunately it happens just when I am strapped for cash. I looked at several models and the Ridgid BS1400 looks like the best deal for the price. Thier lifetime parts and labor service agreement sounds great(if they actually follow through). I use a bandsaw mostly for rounding out blanks and some resawing.

Has anyone out there used it? What are your thoughts? Does anyone have any experience with the service agreement?
 
Rigid is now owned by Home Depot. I would judge future service of Rigid by whatever your experience has been with its new parent company.
 
Grizzley

TD
I have had good luck with my Grizzley 16" 'The Ultimate', once I learned how to use it. Mostly I like American brands but this was a gift. I think its on sale for about $425 right now.
Frank
 
When I first started turning I did not have a bandsaw. Thought I could get along without one. Used the chain saw. It worked - but I was lucky I did not cut off my foot in the process. Finally went and purchased a "Delta" 14 inch saw with a riser block. One of the best investments I ever made for my woodturning. I would suggest you look for a used one somewhere. Keep an eye on the newspaper ads and the want ad section of this forum. Get the riser block as it is well worth the cost. Sell a few bowls and save the money up.
Hugh
 
I was wrong

My Grizzley is a 14" and that sales price in thier summer flyer is $415. Like Hugh said riser block is a good choice which I don't have so any bowl blank taller than about 5.75" I have to use the chain saw method.
Good luck in your search.
Frank
 
Haven't seen anyone do the look at Ridgid since Emerson quit making them, so you might be buying a bit different saw. Ryobi, if memory serves. You can certainly find a lot of Chiwan 14" saws for similar prices. I have had bad luck in former job with a bunch of Grizzly things - castings, mostly. Cheerfully replaced, but should have been aged better. The School finally gave up on the Grizzly bandsaw, though. Never could get it to act the same way even on successive cuts. New Delta sitting next to the old Rockwell now, and it's predictible and reliable. I like the Delta guide positions, personally. They control the blade well and close to the table. It'll do 6.25 under the guides, and a bit over seven on the triple nibble, which is enough for most folks with 12-16" lathes, given that the center inch or so of the log is normally not used, and the outside slabbed. Get a full horse at the outset. Three quarters will do it, but a full horse has some reserve. That would be true for any brand you choose.
 
It seems to me that if you want to add accessories or upgrades, there is a lot available for the Jet and Delta 14" saws. These to me seem to be pretty much the standard. I love my Jet and upgraded with those high-dollar (Carter I think) blade guides. I too would also recommend a riser block.

PS. Havent posted in awhile. Hi all!!!
 
TD',

I spent some 30 years designing and making studio furniture with a very old (made the same year I was born) 20" Northfield band saw and loved it!!! I have been primarilly turning the past 5 years and am in a smaller studio using a Delta 14" and am very happy with it. I know that budgets rule, but to the extent possible, I would get something that works very well, with minimum calls to the manufacturer, and minimum fussing on your part. As far as I can tell, Delta, Powermatic and Jet seem to fit the bill. I would not work without a riser block, however. A 6.5" height will not clear an 8" depth on a 16" blank.
If you can find a used saw, a riser block will not set you back too much. I would also scrap the stock guide blocks and replace them with Cool Blocks or Carters - both good workers.

As most of our work on the bandsaw is cutting turning blanks or resawing (1/2" - 3/4" X 3 tooth blades), I am now considering adding a cheap (inexpensive) 10" bandsaw to accomodate those tight cuts (1/4" blade) that require me to constantly change blades.

But as we all know - "budgets rule" and woodworkers of all stripes world-wide made incredible work before all these motorized beasts were dreamed of.
 
I found some ceramic guide blocks for the Delta 14" saw. I think at Klingspor for about $15. I like them better than "Cool Blocks". I agree on the size of the motor. Get at least 1 hp.
Hugh
 
Many thanks

Thanks to all of you for your advice. I think I have located a used 16" Delta. If it is in decent condition that's what I'll go with.
Terry
 
Hugh said:
I found some ceramic guide blocks for the Delta 14" saw. I think at Klingspor for about $15. I like them better than "Cool Blocks". I agree on the size of the motor. Get at least 1 hp.
Hugh
Click to expand...

I use ceramics myself, because of the inordinate load on the left as the blade tries to escape. A great solution to the problem of rapidly-wearing phenolics.

A warning, however, should you get the ceramic thrust bearings. Stay in the room with your saw for a while after cutting. The sparks produced, which the manufacturers call "cold," are just as hot as any other, and can ignite material trapped below the insert. This is especially critical where you've been sawing with a piece of log upright, or with spalted wood, which makes powder. Tinder is still tinder, and it could ruin your whole day if you didn't pay attention.

NB - they work great. Adjust your cam up top to have the blade run in more toward center, say 1/8, or where it rides on the lower. Ever wonder why they give you an adjustment up top for thrust bearing, but not down below?
 
Michael Mouse -
I purchased a Laguna 18" bandsaw last year at the symposium. It has the ceramic thrust "bearing" - and it produces sparks also. I do not like sparks in the wood shop and watch it pretty close. I have not figured out a solution to it though.

I did put the ceramic "cool blocks" on my 14" Delta (before I picked up the Laguna) and liked them a lot. Not expensive either.
Hugh
 
When it comes to cutting blanks, I gotta throw in the "cheap and nasty" option.

Pick up the cheapest 14" saw you can find (unReliant, HF, used, whateva costs less than $200). Slap on a riser and a 2hp motor salvaged from a table saw, jointer, etc. Add a plywood cutting table (2' square is nice, rails on the bottom can make it slide on and off easilly). Presto Bingo, you've got a saw that will cut 12" (with the blade guides off and fingers crossed) green wood. It will go through blades pretty quickly and won't cut a straight line through cardboard but works well for what it's built for.

Dietrich 😀
 
dkulze said:
When it comes to cutting blanks, I gotta throw in the "cheap and nasty" option.

Pick up the cheapest 14" saw you can find (unReliant, HF, used, whateva costs less than $200). Slap on a riser and a 2hp motor salvaged from a table saw, jointer, etc. Add a plywood cutting table (2' square is nice, rails on the bottom can make it slide on and off easilly). Presto Bingo, you've got a saw that will cut 12" (with the blade guides off and fingers crossed) green wood. It will go through blades pretty quickly and won't cut a straight line through cardboard but works well for what it's built for.

Dietrich 😀
Click to expand...

I'll bet "Tool ManTim" was one of your heros. 😀
 
It's a riding mower. The bandsaw will resaw 12" wet oak at 2ft/sec feed rate. Vroom, vroom. Heh, heh.

Dietrich 😉
 
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