Bandsaw Safety

[Emiliano Achaval]

Many years ago, 20 plus, I had my worst accident ever. I almost lost my index finger in my cheap Ridgid bandsaw. I was rushing, end of the day, cutting one more blank, dull blade... I was pushing, and I still dont know really how it happened, I just remembered it happened very fast. I have a titanium screw holding my bones together, most of my tendons were reattached... Fast forward 20 years, to Betty Scarpino's visit to Maui. She gave us lots of advice on bandsaw safety. I felt confident enough to start using it again... Tomorrow I will be picking up a bigger and better bandsaw. One of our club members retired, I'm buying his saw... When I went to Arrowmont last year, we were using some kind of a sled to hold the logs to cut them safely in half. I have been searching for something like that so I can build one... If you have one, would like to see what you are using... Any other safety advice would also be welcome. Aloha

 

[hockenbery]

I think the bandsaw is about the safest power saw to use. To me it is 2nd tool behind the lathe that I want.

1.The one rule I follow is to never ever push toward the blade with my hand.
Always to the side.
Use a push block for thin pieces.

2. Be especially attentive when doing repetitive cuts.

3. Keep the saw tuned up with sharp blades.

4. Don’t walk away until the blade stops. ( mostly for a shared shop or classroom). The good saws will run for Several minutes with the motor off. Use the break. A friend told me his assistant got a small cut not realizing the blade was moving just barely touched the blade - both were using the saw to help students.

5. My class rules are only designated people may use the bandsaw. Usually teacher and assistants but could include a student known to be good with the saw,

6. Cut tiny pieces off on the outside of the wheel. If a small pice gets pulled through the throat and get between the wheel and the blade it will usually break the blade. Always exciting. But if the guard is close the stay in the saw.

Of the turners I know who have been hurt seriously woodturning, most have been hurt using the bandsaw.
The most serious happened cutting a bowl blank guy was pushing hard the saw cut into rotten soft wood- resistance dropped a lot the wood fed forward really fast and the guy pushed his hand right through the saw.
Lots of hand surgeries.
The most recent a guy was cutting lots of pen blanks 50 or so just fine then pushed one through with his thumb in the blade path cutting off a very small part of his thumb. The repetition puts us in sort of a trance. With each cut the thumb can drift a tiny bit closer to the blade the brain thinks it is still an inch away until you cut off a piece.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Get the "Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginski. Always set the upper guide to where it just barely clears the work. You can make a fixture that straddles the fence and screws into the log. Don't force the work into a dull blade.

 

[John Torchick]

What hockenbery and Bill said. Fingers and saw blades, power or hand, are not compatible. The blades win every time. When using any tool, I try to imagine what I need to do to keep body parts away from sharp thingies.

 

[stu senator]

When I got my grizzly 14 inch bandsaw a few years ago I found a number of videos on the Grizzly site on adjustments. The details may be different but the sequence and setup ideas are good.
Start with a new blade and reset up the machine.
Enjoy.
Stu

 

[Dennis Weiner]

It’s ironic, that I am in the process of rebuilding my crude cross sled that I have used successfully for years.
I will not cross cut a log without having it 100% secure resting in between the slots without any rocking. During a log crosscut, Trying to hand hold and push a log through the blade or roll a log through the blade is asking for trouble.

My personal rule for cutting a log in two is the base must stand upright and flush to the table without rocking. The diameter across should be about equal to or greater than the height you are cutting.



Note: The small apple log in the picture was only for illustration purposes. It was cut on the other side of the blade.



The new sled will have have a new miter slide and two miter slots parallel to the blade on either side so that I can mount and adjust via t nuts a pair of 45 degree log supports.

Good luck with your new saw. Use it well!

 

[John Turpin]

Most of the bandsaw accident discussions that I've been in have to do with post-cut table sweeping. The blade is slowing down, but still has lots of momentum and energy in it. You see cut-offs and saw dust and you start clearing off the table with your hand. You get the picture. I've had a close call or two and kick myself when I catch myself doing it. I am very careful during the cut and am hyper-focused on where my fingers are in relation to that blade. Then, after the cut, I sort of relax and become casual--might as well clean off the table while the saw slows down.

The best thing I've done is place a small whisk broom right by the table. When I get the urge to sweep off the table, I do it with a broom and not with my hand near that blade (moving or not).

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I do not have a picture but I use 2 jigs on BS relating to round stock (logs). One is to cut a round piece to length and the other to slice a round piece lengthwise for blanks of any thickness. The one for length is very simple with a 2x6 mounted to a sled at 90 degree to the blade with a strap to tie down the log or it will roll, and a piece mounted on bottom to ride in the mitre slot.
The second and I think what you are asking for is a sled with mitre slider and a 90 degree sled with handles and slot to allow holding the two sleds together.

This is a Wood magazine plan and this link may not work for video but you can register for free.
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jigs/resawing-bandsaw-jig-and-technique

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Thank you everyone for all the great answers! I also purchased a a gizmo similar to what Gerald shows above, but commercially made , really well made, retails for about $399. Got it for $100. I also got a box with over $500 worth of carbide blades, all types of sizes... I will take a picture of the sled looking apparatus tomorrow. I have read every post here, every answer and advice, carefully. I think I have "The Bandsaw Book", time to read it again... A friend showed me how he marks a "danger" zone area with a sharpie, on the table of the bandsaw, means keep your hands out of here... Thank you to club member Wayne Omura for the help moving the saw. Wayne got a giant Powermatic and a drum sander today too... Aloha

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I do not have a picture but I use 2 jigs on BS relating to round stock (logs). One is to cut a round piece to length and the other to slice a round piece lengthwise for blanks of any thickness. The one for length is very simple with a 2x6 mounted to a sled at 90 degree to the blade with a strap to tie down the log or it will roll, and a piece mounted on bottom to ride in the mitre slot.
The second and I think what you are asking for is a sled with mitre slider and a 90 degree sled with handles and slot to allow holding the two sleds together.

This is a Wood magazine plan and this link may not work for video but you can register for free.
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jigs/resawing-bandsaw-jig-and-technique

Very interesting video. Thanks for posting.

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

I love the tripod picture Emiliano. Great rigging.

 

[Dave Fritz]

Agree with Hockenbery with this exception: I think the band saw may be one of the more dangerous. It seems so innocent, little noise, stationary with only one thing moving. However it can bite before you know it. A member of our club said his dad drew two 45 degree lines from the outside of the blade insert to the front of the band saw table. He told his son, never put your hand inside that zone unless your using a push stick. That really made an impression on him because he watches students like a hawk. It made an impression on me after I had an accident that I can't even figure out how it happened. Not as bad as yours Emiliano but serious enough to get my attention.

The other caution goes back to the music question. I can't concentrate with music in my ears and IMO if you loose concentration any tool can bite.

 

[David R. Linden]

If you have rolled a log in a bandsaw, you understand the problem. I have rolled exactly one. A jig is an excellent solution. If you have extra stock you can screw a board to the end of the log flush with the table and it will prevent rolling if you hold the edge of the board on the table. A v-notch in two parallel boards fastened by a cross-board at one end will give you enough grip to keep the log from rolling. Set the log in the notches, hold on to it, and sled it through the cut. This next part may be controversial and people may not want to hear it, but in my experience, the risk of rolling a log can be avoided by doing the following: when initiating a cut, do not push the log straight in, but grasp it firmly and roll it under. Do not advance the cut at the top, only at the bottom. I don't know what happens if you do not hold firmly enough, but if you let it, of course it may roll. Since I have been using this technique, I have never had one to roll. I'm sure a jig is safer, but fingers can be kept out of the way, and if you don't have a jig and need a small, trued log cut on a BS, this is one way it could be done. If anyone has had a bad experience using this technique, I would be interested to hear about it.

 

[robo hippy]

Most of the time I use the bandsaw for rounding out bowl blanks, not cutting log sections. Don't know if you ever saw my 'chainsaw chopsaw' video or not, but with that bracket, it is possible to cut straight every time, and get blanks that are almost perfectly parallel. I had one accident with the bandsaw, and it was from pushing too hard on a dull blade... only 4 stitches.. I make sure to change the blades more often. Fatigue is probably the #1 cause of accidents in every thing, not just the wood shop.

Side note on blades, I have always used the Lennox Bimetal Diemaster blades. I just found out that the teeth are M42HSS. They cut straighter, and last a lot longer than normal blades, and except for the very fine toothed ones, they can be resharpened...

robo hippy

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I love the tripod picture Emiliano. Great rigging.

That thing lifted the Giant Powermatic like nothing! Wayne made that from scratch. Great contraption. Aloha

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Agree with Hockenbery with this exception: I think the band saw may be one of the more dangerous. It seems so innocent, little noise, stationary with only one thing moving. However it can bite before you know it. A member of our club said his dad drew two 45 degree lines from the outside of the blade insert to the front of the band saw table. He told his son, never put your hand inside that zone unless your using a push stick. That really made an impression on him because he watches students like a hawk. It made an impression on me after I had an accident that I can't even figure out how it happened. Not as bad as yours Emiliano but serious enough to get my attention.

The other caution goes back to the music question. I can't concentrate with music in my ears and IMO if you loose concentration any tool can bite.

I like the tip of drawing a very visible danger zone line. I'm surprised that BS don't already have that on the table... I have to agree, looks like an innocent easy to use tool, yet as we both know, it can bite you faster than an angry rattle snake.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Most of the time I use the bandsaw for rounding out bowl blanks, not cutting log sections. Don't know if you ever saw my 'chainsaw chopsaw' video or not, but with that bracket, it is possible to cut straight every time, and get blanks that are almost perfectly parallel. I had one accident with the bandsaw, and it was from pushing too hard on a dull blade... only 4 stitches.. I make sure to change the blades more often. Fatigue is probably the #1 cause of accidents in every thing, not just the wood shop.

Side note on blades, I have always used the Lennox Bimetal Diemaster blades. I just found out that the teeth are M42HSS. They cut straighter, and last a lot longer than normal blades, and except for the very fine toothed ones, they can be resharpened...

robo hippy

Looks like Lennox blades are the best ones around. I have all lennox blades in the box my friend gave me. I guess he knew what he was doing... Only four stitches but a very valuable lesson learned right?

 

[robo hippy]

Yea, lesson learned. I leave most of my bowl blanks as squares, and push on the corners to round them out. That keeps the fingers out of the way. Anything small, and the piece that bit me was small, I do that on the lathe... Easier, and safer.

robo hippy

 

[Owen Lowe]

3. Keep the saw tuned up with sharp blades.

The most serious happened cutting a bowl blank guy was pushing hard the saw cut into rotten soft wood- resistance dropped a lot the wood fed forward really fast and the guy pushed his hand right through the saw.
Lots of hand surgeries.

If more effort is expended on pushing instead of guiding then perhaps rule #3 is not being followed!

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I have heard a few times what a scary thing it is to have a blade brake on you. Do blades brake due to operator error? Such as binding, etc. Or do they brake out of the blue due to metal fatigue, a bad weld? I had visions of the blade flying off and hurting you, but, Cindy Drozda commented they do not fly, LOL, as long as you keep the doors closed, makes sense... Changed the blade for a 1/2 in 3tpi and tuned up the Jet. What a difference from my rinky dinky Home Depot Ridgid bandsaw!!

 

[hockenbery]

Blades can break from everything you said.
I have broken a couple when a small piece of wood drops through the throat and ending up between the wheel and the blade. The blade can’t stretch so it breaks.

They rarely escape the cabinet. When they do they tend to shoot out parallel to the wheels like a terrified snake.
And slither rapidly across the floor. I’ve only seen this Once in high school shop.
Keeping the upper guide close to the work keeps broken blades inside the cabinet.

I did have a fun one when my assistant at Campbell needed help. A blade broke. He opened the cabinet and it wasn’t there. He swore it did not come out. It was no where to be seen.
It was tightly wound around the upper wheel axle.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have heard a few times what a scary thing it is to have a blade brake on you. Do blades brake due to operator error? Such as binding, etc. Or do they brake out of the blue due to metal fatigue, a bad weld? I had visions of the blade flying off and hurting you, but, Cindy Drozda commented they do not fly, LOL, as long as you keep the doors closed, makes sense... Changed the blade for a 1/2 in 3tpi and tuned up the Jet. What a difference from my rinky dinky Home Depot Ridgid bandsaw!!

Maybe you've been watching too many horror movies or reading posts on WoW. If it will help to ease your fears the law of physics outweigh the laws of vivid imagination. Bandsaw blades break all the time and for every reason imaginable. Follow all standard bandsaw safety practices, keep the bandsaw doors closed and locked, have the guides aligned properly, have the blade tensioned properly, have the upper guide no higher than necessary, don't try to force a dull blade to cut, and as Norm used to say, wear safety glasses.

One early lesson that I learned is to make sure that the piece of wood can't rock. I was cutting a very thick block of wood that wasn't quite flat on the bottom. I had a one inch blade on my Minimax 16, the wood rocked slightly, the blade got stuck, and the blade snapped. It didn't break at a weld, the blade was fairly new, but the four horsepower motor popped it like a rubber band ... it was a pure tension failure and sounded like a rifle shot. The loud bang was the most exciting part of the whole deal. The only damage was a buggered up throat plate, but you can make those out of a scrap of wood. Sometimes the blade will rattle around for a couple seconds inside the saw, but there's hardly any way for the blade to come out.

If a blade breaks, I would be hesitant to have it repaired unless I was positive that it was a bad weld and not due to metal fatigue.

You really haven't lived until you have heard a big band snap.from being pinched. That's almost as good as a defibrillator. Everything after that is anticlimactic.

p.s., you might need a fresh change of shorts.

 

[John Torchick]

IMHO, if I had a bandsaw blade break, I would replace it. Repairing it just might leave a weak spot for another break.

 

[Clifton C]

the law of physics outweigh the laws of vivid imagination

Bill, I'm keeping that quote in reserve. At work we are told we have to prepare for every contingency. I get in trouble when I ask,
how are we going to stop the charging rhino?

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Maybe you've been watching too many horror movies or reading posts on WoW. If it will help to ease your fears the law of physics outweigh the laws of vivid imagination. Bandsaw blades break all the time and for every reason imaginable. Follow all standard bandsaw safety practices, keep the bandsaw doors closed and locked, have the guides aligned properly, have the blade tensioned properly, have the upper guide no higher than necessary, don't try to force a dull blade to cut, and as Norm used to say, wear safety glasses.

One early lesson that I learned is to make sure that the piece of wood can't rock. I was cutting a very thick block of wood that wasn't quite flat on the bottom. I had a one inch blade on my Minimax 16, the wood rocked slightly, the blade got stuck, and the blade snapped. It didn't break at a weld, the blade was fairly new, but the four horsepower motor popped it like a rubber band ... it was a pure tension failure and sounded like a rifle shot. The loud bang was the most exciting part of the whole deal. The only damage was a buggered up throat plate, but you can make those out of a scrap of wood. Sometimes the blade will rattle around for a couple seconds inside the saw, but there's hardly any way for the blade to come out.

If a blade breaks, I would be hesitant to have it repaired unless I was positive that it was a bad weld and not due to metal fatigue.

You really haven't lived until you have heard a big band snap.from being pinched. That's almost as good as a defibrillator. Everything after that is anticlimactic.

p.s., you might need a fresh change of shorts.

LOL, I sometimes questioned my decision of buying a bigger bandsaw. I gotten by without one for well over 20 years. I'm still very apprehensive even just looking at it. My scar and numb area around my finger is a constant reminder that it is a machine that you have to respect. I would not know how to repair a blade, I just throw a new one, much easier and faster...

 

[robo hippy]

I once got a print out from Lennox. Main reason for most bandsaw blades breaking is a combination of pushing too hard and/or having the back thrust bearing too far away from the blade, and/or setting the top blade guide 3 inches above what you are cutting rather than down close. The blades do flex. Too much flexing, and a lot of flexing over time, especially front to back puts a lot of stress on the back side of the blade. One good sign that the blade is ready to break is seeing it oscillate front to back while cutting. Stress cracks on the back of the blade. First time I had one break, I took it back to the shop and the guy looked at it and said "See, lots more cracks. Time to junk it."

I have kinked a few from pieces that rocked while cutting. Breaking a 1 1/4 inch blade on my Laguna 16HD does give a good adrenaline rush...

robo hippy

 

[egsiegel]

I've always believed that the bandsaw is one of the most dangerous tools we use. Not because of kickbacks or tool performance...but because it doesn't make as much noise as other tools..it is less scary. Also, the operator is more focused on following a line...not just keeping the piece against a fence. It is easy to lose track of where your fingers are. Sometimes the safest tools are the easiest to have an accident with.

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

I had a bandsaw break at the weld once, and Timberwolf happily replaced it for free when I sent them a picture of the broken weld. I can't imagine fixing any other kind of break because almost every other break I've had came down to operator error and the blade was kinked.

I've had blades break on huge bandsaws and on the family Woodmizer...never anything scary other than the pop that Bill so accurately describes.

I've always had a healthy respect for bandsaws. I was finishing my very first bowl in junior high shop class and a friend was sawing rings for a glued-up blank on a bandsaw for his first bowl, right next to my lathe. I heard an "oops" and turned to see a finger tip fall on the floor. The finger tip was reattached successfully, and I've always been grateful for that experience for putting (and keeping) the fear of god in me around powertools. Sometimes I've wondered if that experience perhaps saved one or more of my fingers.

I think it's good to swap horror stories...it keeps us aware that inattention can strike any of us at any level—and the consequences are terrible.

 

[Bill Boehme]

... I heard an "oops" and turned to see a finger tip fall on the floor. The finger tip was reattached successfully ....

That really is a horror story that will leave an indelible impression in your mind. It's scary to think that it could have been so much worse.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

That really is a horror story that will leave an indelible impression in your mind. It's scary to think that it could have been so much worse.

Crap, too bad I read that, LOL... I cant get that image of the finger tip falling, yikes...

 

[Rachel Aberle]

Reading these stories. Is there a good bandsaw fence and guide that is recommended?

 

[hockenbery]

Reading these stories. Is there a good bandsaw fence and guide that is recommended?

I found The "Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginske to be a great guide. I think it is out of print

Duginske’s New Complete Guide to Band Saws seems to be a newer and better version

 

[Kirk Amidon]

Reading these stories. Is there a good bandsaw fence and guide that is recommended?

I'm reasonably happy with the Kreg fence. Had to drill a few extra holes in it to align with my 1940's Walker Turner BS, but otherwise, it works fine. If you have a more modern 14" saw, it might align out of the box.

Adding a fence is literally a game changer. I now use the BS for all of my rough ripping, much safer than the TS and lose less wood to the kerf. Easier to rip to width before jointing and planing, which is not safe on the TS.

I also DIY a tall fence for veneer cuts, rather than buy something.

 

[Russ Braun]

Blade sharpness on any tool is key; let the blade do the work!

 

[John Hicks]

Carter makes a carriage that is adjustable for cross cutting round stock like logs. I think it runs about a hundred dollars and is adjustable.

 

[Charles Cadenhead]

I found The "Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginske to be a great guide. I think it is out of print

Duginske’s New Complete Guide to Band Saws seems to be a newer and better version

Amazon has it new and used. I picked it up for 5 bucks.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I’d heard some time ago that Saw Stop was developing a bandsaw with the same technology as their table saws. I don’t know if it ever came to market. Anyone know what happened there?

 

[Rachel Aberle]

I’d heard some time ago that Saw Stop was developing a bandsaw with the same technology as their table saws. I don’t know if it ever came to market. Anyone know what happened there?

That would be interesting

 

[Lance Mirrer]

Hi Emiliano,
The sled is from Stockroom supplies.

Little Ripper Mini Sawmill and Sliding Track Basic Package

Turn your bandsaw into a mini portable saw mill with The Little Ripper, perfect as a mini log mill and for resawing boards. Safe, precise, and fits any bandsaw. Made in Canada. Purchase online.

stockroomsupply.com

Round Ripper Circle Cutter & Sliding Track Package

Easily cut precise, wood circles and bowl blanks on any bandsaw with The Round Ripper wood circle cutter. Its unique design safely secures wood and extends blade life for smooth, accurate results. Made in Canada. Purchase online.

stockroomsupply.com

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TctAz6l7MHA


They have great customer service, some wonderful videos (YouTube?) and a very cool device. I have one if you need Pics, but probably better quality on the web site.

 

[Lance Mirrer]

This came up in my "New Posts" feed today. Since it started in 2018, hopefully what you needed is long built, possibly it's ready for an upgrade.