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Bandsaw blades (again)

Jamie Straw

Jamie Straw

Joined
May 28, 2015
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Location
Bainbridge Island, WA
I ran a forum search to no avail (65 useless hits), so starting a thread. Background: my Grizzly 14" saw did fine cutting long grain on dry alder last week, even when it was 10" high, very pleased, and similar maple that had been down for a few months. However, very wet 2-days-down maple at that height was a complete no-go. Granted, the blade wasn't as sharp (though I did touch it up after the first failure), but it just completely bogged down. (NOTE: Yes, I know this saw is underpowered. Just asking a blade question here 🙂 ) The chapter's bandsaw guru recommends skip-tooth blades, 3tpi. I'm not finding much in the way of skip-tooth when I do an internet search. Wondering if, when I know there's a tough job like this maple, perhaps I should go to a 2tpi? Or does someone know of a skip-tooth that's not more than 1/2" and not super-spendy? I think for dry wood, such as the alder last week, or easier/less wet wood, I can get by with my usual blade, just wanting to find something that can do 8" or bigger wet maple. Thanks.
 
Dean Center said:
You've already heard about one turner specific blade. Here's another, from Timber Wolf. They have several with an 'alternate set' that they recommend specifically for green wood. http://timberwolfblades.com/proddetail.php?prod=1203AS

You might also want to check the expiration date on your PAM. 😉
Click to expand...

I've been a Timberwolf user for a long time, including their green-wood AS blades. Now trying the Highland blade. Really seeking info on skip-tooth blades. We won't talk about PAM😛 I got carried away, whilst simultaneously forgetting to lock down the adjustment for where the blade tracks on the wheel, ended up with it slipping off the wheels.🙄 Not funny at the time, really stupid-sounding now. Hubby has offered to find a more powerful motor for the saw, might take him up on it. For now? skip-tooth info/opinions plz.
 
Hi Jamie,

I don't have the answer, though I'm sure interested! I got a good sized ornamental maple last year and it cut horribly on the bandsaw. Very stringy. The best I found after 3 or 4 different blades was the Timberwolf, and that was still a bear.

As a suggestion: have you tried calling Timberwolf? I've had great support from them. They seem to really understand bandsaw cutting.
 
I think the lesson learned in this thread was don't cut wet wood along the grain because it makes a mess inside the bandsaw. I doubt that either TPI or tooth configuration would even enter into consideration as a fix. Long strands of wet wood full of sap will quickly clog the gullets of the blade and put a heavy load on the blade when cutting through thick wood. While a larger motor might improve the situation, I think that a better solution would be to reorient the log so that you are making mostly cross-grain cuts.
 
Find a local saw shop and find out who makes bandsaw blades locally. There has to be some one. Try out the Lennox Diemaster bimetal blade. I have had a couple of friends that I sent them to, all of who used Timberwolf, and they all switched. There is a BIG difference. Your local saw shop expert can be a huge help if you tell them what you are doing, and some will offer sharpening service, and the one I use does a far better job than I ever could do.

robo hippy
 
Bill Boehme said:
I think the lesson learned in this thread was don't cut wet wood along the grain because it makes a mess inside the bandsaw. I doubt that either TPI or tooth configuration would even enter into consideration as a fix. Long strands of wet wood full of sap will quickly clog the gullets of the blade and put a heavy load on the blade when cutting through thick wood. While a larger motor might improve the situation, I think that a better solution would be to reorient the log so that you are making mostly cross-grain cuts.
Click to expand...
Guess I've been resisting taking the time to make a sled for safely holding these heavy half-logs on edge to go through the saw lying down. Making a resolution: no more "free, wet, heavy maple" until said sled is constructed.😛 got any plans to recommend? I'd prefer to not lose much height capacity.
 
Bill Boehme said:
I think the lesson learned in this thread was don't cut wet wood along the grain because it makes a mess inside the bandsaw. I doubt that either TPI or tooth configuration would even enter into consideration as a fix. Long strands of wet wood full of sap will quickly clog the gullets of the blade and put a heavy load on the blade when cutting through thick wood. While a larger motor might improve the situation, I think that a better solution would be to reorient the log so that you are making mostly cross-grain cuts.
Click to expand...

cutting endgrain up is not something I do to have fun!

However I have cut hundreds of end grain hollow form blanks 7" tall 5-6" diameter from wet woods for hollowing classes cutting endgrain up with a bandsaw.
This has all been with 3 or 5 HP saws with 145+ blade lengths.
A sharp 4 tpi blade will clear the threads with both hook or skip tooth. You to get threads and little if any sawdust.
I have not experienced the blade clogging because the strings don't fit in the gullets.

I think the a shorter blade and weaker motor would clog more. A dull blade won't work .

In my shop I have to stop periodically to clear the dust collector intake which has a guard to only let 2" blocks of wood through.

Also I watch the blade following the cut. As soon as I see threads coming with the blade it is time to clean the lower cabinet by hand.
It is worth checking the top door too.
Cut up thread parts can clog the gullet. So if threads are following the blade some will get cut just before the blade enters the wood and be pulled into the cut.

Al
 
I've done that as well, Al. I have a MiniMax MM16 with a big motor. The blade runs at 4000 feet per minute and it will plow through just about anything, BUT I still have to stop and clean out all of the long strings that get balled up everywhere inside the saw ... and not much gets sucked up by the dust collector.

I had this bright idea one time that I would use the DC hose to suck up the long strings of wood that were clogged everywhere in the saw. Did I mention that my DC is a cheap Sears single stage type? You know, ...... the kind where everything has to pass through the impeller .... and, long strings don't pass through the impeller very well ..... in fact, not at all. Cleaning the long strings of wet wood out of a bandsaw by hand is child's play compared to disassembling the impeller on a DC.

I also have a small 14" Taiwan bandsaw (Delta knockoff) that has a 1 HP motor and the blade runs at about 2500 feet per minute. It is a good saw, but it will bog down and maybe even stall if I were to try cutting wet wood along the grain. I have no plans to verify that. Blade speed, feed rate, and horsepower make all the difference.

The bottom line is, despite the pretty long strings of wood, I now try to avoid cutting along the grain as much as I can.

My "plans" for a sled are pretty basic ... two pieces of plywood at right angles and screws through the vertical piece to hold the log. Feed the wood slowly so the blade doesn't get bogged down.
 
Like Robo stated I use a local company. I got 3 blades in August and need some new one now. http://www.ferscosaws.com/catalog.php . I think most of his business is industrial so he does ship.

Not sure if you are looking for a jig to cut lengthwise or crosswise . Here are the two I use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb1QC-Zv2PI

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/466192998897206949/

The first is a resaw jig for lengthwise cuts or making flat blanks from round log. The second is the only pic I could find is for cutting a end of a round log. The right angle glue up of the 2 pieces has a slide on the bottom to go into the mitre slot. The strap goes under the upright to encircle the log and hold it in place. By the way that one is on Pintrest which I do not do so could not get to the details.

Hope some of this helps you.
 
Bill Boehme said:
I've done that as well, Al. I have a MiniMax MM16 with a big motor. The blade runs at 4000 feet per minute and it will plow through just about anything, BUT I still have to stop and clean out all of the long strings . ........
Blade speed, feed rate, and horsepower make all the difference. The bottom line is, despite the pretty long strings of wood, I now try to avoid cutting along the grain as much as I can. My "plans" for a sled are pretty basic ... two pieces of plywood at right angles and screws through the vertical piece to hold the log. Feed the wood slowly so the blade doesn't get bogged down.
Click to expand...

I only make engrain blanks for classes.
Usually I cut a 7" section of round log 12-20" diameter take it to the bandsaw and cut as many 6" circles as I can and then a 5" if there is one.

I have a roll around grizzly DC dedicated to the bandsaw. It runs on 240'so it must be a strong motor. 🙂
Probably claims to be 3HP

It actually does a pretty good job and once in a while I can get a class set of 10 blanks without a cleaning.
Other times it might need a cleaning every 4 blanks.

Best solution is just avoid end grain HF classes!!!
Al
 
For picking up the hair balls with the DC, it can be done, as long as you have a cyclone dust collector. Did you check out my Bandsaw Dust Ports Do Not Suck video?

robo hippy
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
Like Robo stated I use a local company. I got 3 blades in August and need some new one now. http://www.ferscosaws.com/catalog.php . I think most of his business is industrial so he does ship.

Not sure if you are looking for a jig to cut lengthwise or crosswise . Here are the two I use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb1QC-Zv2PI

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/466192998897206949/

The first is a resaw jig for lengthwise cuts or making flat blanks from round log. The second is the only pic I could find is for cutting a end of a round log. The right angle glue up of the 2 pieces has a slide on the bottom to go into the mitre slot. The strap goes under the upright to encircle the log and hold it in place. By the way that one is on Pintrest which I do not do so could not get to the details.

Hope some of this helps you.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Gerald, I took a look at the YouTube -- yes, it's all about long-grain cutting.
 
I have the Rikon 13-14" bandsaw (120 V, it's about 1.5 HP). I got the Highland Woodworking woodturner's blade. I've cut firewood on it (don't ask...). I'm happy with the Highland Woodworking blade, but I'm not a bandsaw expert.
 
I use wood turners blades from several sources and love them for wet wood.

I have the 1998 model delta bs and found it had a 9 amp motor. I have the riser block installed so decided to get a bigger motor. 220v would be hard to install but I found a 15.5 amp 120v motor and installed it 2 years ago. works great.
 
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