Band Saw Horsepower

[Bryan Field]

I'm planning on finally treating my self to a band saw specifically for cutting bowl blanks and resawing. The question is, what horsepower do I need? I'm looking at 14 inch band saws. Can I get away with 1 horsepower, or will I regret it. Trying to save some $$

 

[hockenbery]

Depth of cut would be a major point for me. It got a 16” Laguna with a 12” depth of cut
Around 2000. That is the absolute minimum for me. I still had to prep a few blanks every year with a chainsaw.
A 16” depth of cut would have been better. But with big blanks in the rear view mirror 12” suits me nicely now.

Table size is another point to consider. I have a hydraulic table that I use as an auxiliary table. Lifts the wood to height too.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

I'm planning on finally treating my self to a band saw specifically for cutting bowl blanks and resawing. The question is, what horsepower do I need? I'm looking at 14 inch band saws. Can I get away with 1 horsepower, or will I regret it. Trying to save some $$

This can be tricky. Grizzly advertises their 14" saw as 1 horsepower at 110v with an amperage draw of 11 amps. Here's a chart I found online which says 16 amp draw at 1 hp. Who are you going to believe?



My 1940's 14" Delta bandsaw has a relatively large motor that's original to the saw labeled as 1/2 hp. Never have any problems cutting full 6" thick material. Over the years there's been inflation on motor hp ratings.

 

[robo hippy]

Cutting height makes the difference. My big saw, a Laguna 16HD, which does cut has a 4.5 hp Baldor motor on it, and it walks through every thing I put on it. That motor may be overkill. I have a 14 inch PM that cuts 6 inches high, and it has a 1 hp motor on it. It can not have an extension put on it to raise the height. If I was to go to a saw that cuts 12 inches high, I would consider 1 hp to be a bit minimal. Maybe for that height, 1 1/2 hp and 220 volt.

robo hippy

 

[Kirk Amidon]

Like Doug mentioned above, my 1940's 16" walker turner has a half HP. Will resaw up to the max cut (just under 12") without issues. The motor is physically larger than one would expect for the size. With modern motors, I'd probably want something run on 240 and about 2HP.

I'd think about a used saw - the WT are often about 5-600, and a 20" delta or powermatic can be had for not much more with some sleuthing and are significantly more saw than a 14" saw.

 

[Wally Crawford]

My Jet 14" has a 1 1/2HP motor and about all I use it for is cutting bowl blanks. The HP is not adequate when I get into thicker green wood-anything over about 5". We get the job done, but I dream of a saw with a 4.5 or 5HP motor.

 

[John K Jordan]

Based on my experience, the power you will be happy with depends on several things including cutting height, type of wood/grain direction, type of blade, blade sharpness, TPI, and cutting speed. The sharpness and TPI makes a huge difference - too many teeth per inch and the saw can't clear them when cutting thick wood.

I always use a 3tpi 1/2" blade. I have them made from Lennox stock and usually buy at least 8 at a time, sharpen each several times before replacing them.

That said, for years I processed green log sections 12" high on an old 14" Delta with a riser block and a pretty small 110v electric motor (maybe 3/4hp?), made and dried 100s of turning blanks. Now I use an 18" Rikon with a 12+" cut, 220v 2.5hp motor. It works the same, but I can cut faster. There was nothing I could cut with either saw. I talk about this very briefly in my video posted here on processing logs into blanks:

Making useful turning blanks from logs

My “Logs to Blanks” video shows how I use a shop bandsaw to make useful turning blanks from log sections. I almost always turn wood so I include a little information on drying. I made this video during the Covid pandemic for a club Zoom meeting demo. It’s long, about 45 minutes, but it’s a...

www.aawforum.org

In fact, we once resawed a 12' long dry doug fir 2/12 into 4 thin and perfect boards on the little Delta - had zero problems. I did have to build a tall fence for that and cut slowly.

JKJ

 

[Steve Tiedman]

With any saw, priority #1 is the blade. Followed by the blade. Then the blade. Then the motor.

Buy high quality blades and if possible, keep them sharp. I've got a 1hp Leeson on a 14" Delta and with a good blade I can do whatever I want within the frame limitations of the saw.

 

[Bryan Field]

Folks, thank you for your input. Now I'll wait to see what Black Friday has too offer!

 

[Holmes Anderson]

I'm planning on finally treating my self to a band saw specifically for cutting bowl blanks and resawing. The question is, what horsepower do I need? I'm looking at 14 inch band saws. Can I get away with 1 horsepower, or will I regret it. Trying to save some $$

a 14" bandsaw may be fine for bowl blanks but will not have much power, cut-height and blade width capacity for resawing. 16" seems like the bare minimum for resawing. A 20" machine would be better. I don't think it is possible to run carbide blades on a 14" saw, and most will not run on a 16" saw either. I don't think most 14" saws will accommodate the 1"+ blades favored for resawing, and you may be limited to thin blades because of the small diameter wheels. I know people do resawing on 14" bandsaws but it will probably be a slow-go. Sort of like using a router table rather than a shaper for panel raising. I would look for a used 16" or larger saw. There was a used MM16 for sale in Cambridge, MA for short dollars recently but it might be sold by now. I use an MM16 and have no major complaints.

There is an 18" Rikon in Thornton, NH listed on FB marketplace for $1400.

 

[John K Jordan]

I plum forgot to include one of the MOST important things about setting up any bandsaw and blade: getting the tension right. It's critical when cutting thick, hard wood and especially when resawing.
If you listen to certain people for tension advice, good luck with the fluttering and finger gauge.

I use a Starrett bandsaw tension meter. It's expensive, but there are cheaper gauges and cheap and almost free ways to make one.

When I tried to use a carbide blade on my older 14" Delta with riser and cast-iron frame, it was NOT POSSIBLE to get it tensioned correctly for that blade.
It's easy to overstress and damage certain components of bandsaws by tensioning correctly for the blade when it is too much for the saw.
No problem tensioning the blades I use for everything else.

JKJ

 

[Jack Schieber]

I have a 14" 1hp Grizzley (I would never buy another Grizzley machine) and I use it to make all my bowl blanks. When I use these blades, I don't ever have a problem with the 1hp motor:

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsaw-blades.asp

These blades are priced right and do a nice job.

 

[John Walls]

I have a Laguna 18BX, has a 3hp/220 on it for 16" cut. I actually stalled it yesterday cutting 14" to the side of the pith. Wood had been laying outside for 2.5 yrs or so, was not real dry but not real wet. This was a first, have a fairly new 1" blade on it. Usually the 3hp powers through like butter but for some reason, did not like this wood. I usually cut 10-12 inch with no problem so if you can swing it, look for this horsepower. Thinking about it, I should have just used a chainsaw to cut this log down the center. For actually rounding a blank, it's a dream although the 1" blade will not make very tight turns, but a 1/2" blade cuts pretty tight.

Guess it depends on what you will use it for in the end. Splitting a log with a chainsaw and only rounding blanks, 6" or less my little Delta 14" with 3/8" blade works great, I think it's a 3/4 horse motor.

 

[John K Jordan]

stalled it yesterday cutting 14" to the side of the pith. Wood had been laying outside for 2.5 yrs or so, was not real dry but not real wet. This was a first, have a fairly new 1" blade on it. Usually the 3hp powers through like butter but for some reason, did not like this wood.

Was the blade real sharp? I can't tell by running my fingers up the (stopped!) blade, but I can if I run the flat of my thumbnail up the teeth. If you haven't tried this, compare a new, slightly used, and worn blade and feel the difference!

I always sharpen my blades several times (with a dremel (with the side of a little metal-cutting disk) before changing blades. Just hit the tip of each tooth 1/2 second at the right angle. The blade on my 18" Rikon is 11'10", sharpening takes me about 20 minutes.

Even a quick and sloppy sharpening by hand makes a HUGE difference.



JKJ

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

I'm planning on finally treating my self to a band saw specifically for cutting bowl blanks and resawing. The question is, what horsepower do I need? I'm looking at 14 inch band saws. Can I get away with 1 horsepower, or will I regret it. Trying to save some $$

FWIW, I have the Rikon 10-326, 110v 1.75 HP. It's about $1,500.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Two points I'd like to make.
If you are looking at 240V machines, consider the cost of running a 240V circuit to the saw (or the cost of upgrading 120V 15A to 20A).
People tend to lump all 14" bandsaws together, but there is a big difference between the older smaller style cast iron frames and the newer larger capacity steel frames.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

FWIW, I have the Rikon 10-326, 110v 1.75 HP. It's about $1,500.

That sounds like a perfect example of horsepower inflation. The vast, vast majority of buyers would not be able to run that saw off a 110v wall plug if they were honest about the motor actually being 1.75 hp.

 

[Bernie Kopfer]

To reemphasis what has been said here about the need for sharp clean blades; I have a Rikon 347 which has a 4hp motor, I was attempting to cut a 6” piece of dry cherry with a very dirty and dull 1/2 blade and I almost stalled the motor. Really surprised me!
Changed blades and proved to myself that dull dirty blades just don’t cut it.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

That sounds like a perfect example of horsepower inflation. The vast, vast majority of buyers would not be able to run that saw off a 110v wall plug if they were honest about the motor actually being 1.75 hp.

I'll take the manufacturer's word for it. It honestly doesn't affect me in the least.

 

[Dean Center]

This has been discussed in various forms on the forum often over the years. The answer has consistently been "The more horsepower, the better." Bandsaw horsepower envy is a real thing. And common.

 

[John K Jordan]

Two points I'd like to make.
If you are looking at 240V machines, consider the cost of running a 240V circuit to the saw (or the cost of upgrading 120V 15A to 20A).
People tend to lump all 14" bandsaws together, but there is a big difference between the older smaller style cast iron frames and the newer larger capacity steel frames.

These are both good points. I used the old cast iron Delta for years with a riser block to get 12" of height. The cast iron frame was incredibly strong, however some of the other parts were not. I had to replace the tensioning spring and the tensioning bracket spent a lot of time aligning the wheels so they would be coplanar under tension.

I do like the newer saws with the welded steel body and built with more cutting height. I use the 16" Rikon and all the components are stronger than the old Delta.

I think I said it before, but don't forget about tension. If the tension is too low there can be many problems for deep cuts. Use a good tension gauge. Buy, borrow, or befriend someone with a gauge to come over and check the tension for a given blade. I think clubs should buy them for the members to borrow.

For wiring changes, I built my shop with with the anticipation of having to make changes over the years. For that, instead of sheet rock I covered all walls and ceilings with 1/2" plywood, held by screws. That way, I can easily (but maybe not quickly!) remove panels and change the wiring, air lines, ethernet cables, and anything else inside the walls. I did that when I upgraded to a lathe that ran on 220 volts. I highly recommend the plywood method to others with insulated stud walls. If walls are block or concrete and all wiring is in surface conduit or pulled thru embedded conduit, changes are also easy. I am the electrician so the only cost of change is for materials.

JKJ

 

[Cary Hulse]

I've only had it a couple months, but I've been really happy with this one so far. Thankfully, I already had the 220 circuit handy. The price has gone up since I got it unfortunately.

17" 2 HP Bandsaw w/ Resaw Fence & Bar - Grizzly Industrial

<h1>G0513Z 17" 2 HP Bandsaw with Resaw Bar</h1><h2>Streamline your wood-cutting with this precision bandsaw offering exceptional resaw control.</h2><p>Featuring a two-position resaw fence and an adjustable resaw bar, the G0513Z lets you “steer” workpieces through the blade while maintaining...

www.grizzly.com

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

This has been discussed in various forms on the forum often over the years. The answer has consistently been "The more horsepower, the better." Bandsaw horsepower envy is a real thing. And common.

It's bad enough when owners get involved in the hp war. Now manufacturers like Rikon and others are right in there too. How do they get 1.75 hp out of 14 amps at 110v?

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

It's bad enough when owners get involved in the hp war. Now manufacturers like Rikon and others are right in there too. How do they get 1.75 hp out of 14 amps at 110v?

You could ask Rikon. I can give you the president's email address if you like.

 

[John K Jordan]

It's bad enough when owners get involved in the hp war. Now manufacturers like Rikon and others are right in there too. How do they get 1.75 hp out of 14 amps at 110v?

Seems almost everyone contributes to inflation, even the equipment spec writers.

Jet claimed 1.5hp for their 110v 1642 lathes. However, the Delta VFD that drives the motor was rated at 1hp.

 

[robo hippy]

I guess the hp ratings are subject to voltage. When I first set up my shop, I read a lot of books. Without exception, they all said that every motor, 1hp and larger needed 220 volt. I rewired a couple of tools that were 1 1/2 hp, and they all ran better on the 220. The same for the 1 1/2 hp Jet lathes, they just work better on 220. My old Performax 22/44 drum sander never stalled after wiring the motor for 220. Note here, the drive/feed belt needs to stay on 110..... My dad found out the hard way.

robo hippy

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Bunch of years ago I recall reading an article on the then newish way electric motor horsepower was rated. As I recall the author suggested that motors were being tested with increasing loads until they blew up. At the point of blow up they would record the amp draw and that would represent the motor hp. I don't know if the author was totally correct in his theory.

The article was prompted by the ridiculous claims that were being made for air compressor motor hp ratings at the time.

 

[John Whitley]

Who are you going to believe?

I’m going to believe the motor nameplate’s listed “FLA”: Full Load Amps. That will usually overestimate the in-practice typical load by a fair bit, but it’s the correct number to use when planning electrical support for your machinery, unless the manufacturer explicitly specifies another (usually larger) circuit size. I think that chart you posted is extremely suspect. It matches up with literally none of the listed FLA ratings for my shop’s equipment.

Some examples:

• The 3.5HP router in my router table has a listed FLA rating of just 15 amps.
• Grizzly G0555X bandsaw (a cast iron Delta clone) 15A at 110V for 1.5HP
• Nova Voyager DVR drill press: 15A circuit at 110V for 1.75HP (the true FLA rating is unclear. Some places kinda suggest that’s 10A, but the specified minimum circuit size is 15A, likely to manage load spikes)