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Back yard gold, now what do I do?

Joined
Jun 13, 2008
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Location
Richmond Virginia
I live in the Virginia woods with 4 acres of hardwoods that backs up to a much larger forest. My neighbors don’t mind me wandering around and has given me permission to salvage some wood.

About a month ago I was hiking through the woods and came upon a large diseased maple tree. I think it is maple due to some of the dead leaves around and I’ve compared some of the grain to pictures I’ve seen. The tree was hollow and in serious distress, and it was covered in burls. I also had to remove a dead oak tree from my back yard that provided many hours of learning opportunity.

I’ve left the burl wood alone hoping my skill/confidence level will catch up to the maple burl potential. I’ve spent about 30 hours in my shop over the past few days taking myself to school to make bowls. I roughed out 4 oak bowls ranging from 12 inches to 8. One of them was from a crotch and I made a little bowl inside the center of a big bowl. It had some cool feather type pattern that just continued to make me smile.

The only thing that flew off my lathe was shavings so my head was swelled with confidence. I set my sights on one of the maple burls (about 9 inches in diameter). It has a lot of punky wood, deep bark inclusions, and I though as long as I was learning I might as well use a piece that had a lot of rotten stuff so I would feel bad if I messed it up. As the patterns began to reveal themselves, (and it was my hands revealing them), my excitement began to grow. Bit by bit it started to look like a little piece of art (and I’m not an artist). I must have turned my lathes off 100 times to check the thickness to make sure the walls were 10% of the diameter so I could dry it according to the rules I’ve read, and held my breath as I made each successive pass anticipating a catch that never came.

The piece is soaking in denatured alcohol as I am typing this message because I’m hoping to dry and finish it before my Mother visits in 6 weeks. While it is drying, I’m hoping the minds of this forum can help guide my inexperienced next steps.

There are several punky areas in the lid an on the side that penetrate the sides. There is also a deep bark inclusion that will penetrate the side when the walls are about a half an inch. My thoughts were to remove the punky areas up to the good wood to leave the natural borders of these areas (carve them out?), and to trim the walls thin enough to let the bark inclusions open up.

I’ve attached a few pictures, and any design, pit fall, finishing, cautions, or other advice, that you can provide will be much appreciated. I can’t believe the grain on this thing, and that my hands are bringing it to life (I am so hooked on this). There are many colors (pink, purple, brown, black, yellow) that are exploding everywhere, and I’m nervous my experience could derail my current progress.

Thanks for your time,
James
 

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You're headed in the right direction,let it dry,turn it to about 1/2" or so,these can be a bit thicker than plain wood if you like,and enjoy the holes that show up as you turn it....remember..."holes are extra"....enjoy.................
 
You've probably already noticed some tool bounce or chatter as you cut wood, air, wood, air, ... Maybe some sandpaper chatter too. To reduce unpleasantness and produce a better overall surface, I'd suggest over-excavating the holes with a Dremel and filling with an epoxy-and-coffee-grounds mortar. Pile the mortar proud of the inside and outside surfaces for secondary turning. Final turning and sanding will produce a handsome terrazzo effect from the ground coffee. Many other fills are also possible.

Keeping the holes is of course another option, as Malcolm suggests. You'll probably have to do some hand sanding, or use a rotary sander, to get a good finish without chatter marks.

Joe
 
Everyone's going to consider me a barbarian but when I have a piece of maple burl I like that has a lot of punk I dry it and then drop it in a gallon can of shellac until the punky stuff is well saturated and then let it sit until it dries out. That can take a while, by the way.
 
Epoxy mix

Joe mentioned an epoxy mix with coffee grounds. Would that be the same 2 part epoxy I use to glue the brass tube into pen blanks?

With regard to soaking in shelac, would it be thinned or not. I have another piece that this might really help.

Thanks for the advice everyone,
James
 
Joe mentioned an epoxy mix with coffee grounds. Would that be the same 2 part epoxy I use to glue the brass tube into pen blanks?

I have no idea how YOU glue pens together, James. (Only joshing, of course).

I use Loctite twin-tube, 60 minutes working time, and about an equal volume of coffee grounds, maybe a little less. Do a test on scrap first, to verify its suitability for your application.

Beware the shelf life. Sometime in the next five years or so, Loctite will have customer-readable lot dates on the outside of the package. My simpler suggestion suffered Not-Invented-Here syndrome. Call their toll-free number for the secret date formula, and if out of date refuse purchase or return for refund.

Joe
 
Coffee grounds

Thanks Joe,
I tried coffee grounds on another burl piece this weekend and it really complimented the bark inclusion. I'm sure I'll use the tip on the piece that started this thread.
 
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