• The forum upgrades have been completed. These were moderate security fixes from our software vendor and it looks like everything is working well. If you see any problems please post in the Forum Technical Support forum or email us at forum_moderator (at) aawforum.org. Thank you
  • March 2026 Turning Challenge: Olla! (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to David Wyke, People's Choice in the February 2026 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Tim Connell for "Black Locust Basket Illusion Series #4" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 16, 2026 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Asking for trouble?

Joined
May 20, 2004
Messages
156
Likes
0
Location
New Glarus, WI
wood in question is cherry----thinking about using Watco Danish Oil (cherry) to obtain desired final color. Thinking of continuing with Waterlox or Liberon finishing oil. Will I have any problems?
 
Cherry always starts out a light tan color, but will darken over time all on its own. Quite a while ago I turned several pieces from furniture grade, kiln dried cherry that took over a year to begin to darken, but ones I've turned from cherry I've 'harvested' began darkening within a month. Here's an example - two photos a month apart in time of the same piece.
 

Attachments

  • 140 a small.JPG
    140 a small.JPG
    44.4 KB · Views: 34
  • 140 c small.JPG
    140 c small.JPG
    31.5 KB · Views: 33
Unless it's kept in the dark, cherry doesn't have a final color. You can accelerate darkening by briefly applying a lye solution (or oven cleaner), with a vinegar wash to neutralize it.

Or, try anything on a test piece of no consequence. Taking a chance is dangerous. Not taking a chance can be more dangerous.

Joe
 
In a word - yes. The Watco involves some pigment, and that will collect in the endgrain and give the piece a contrast the natural wood will never have. If you're doing a Pho, you might like it, but if you're looking for natural, let it mellow in. Else expect garishly dark endgrain and light face grain even with a mild stain like the Watco. If you burnish the wood you can get things a bit more equal.

The chemistry that darkens the wood can be helped by high energy light. It can be retarded by kinl-drying which involves leaching initially and then usually a final steam to relax case-hardening. KD cherry will want more time.
 
Back
Top