Articulating hollowing system for flat-topped hollow forms?

[Maggie Shapiro]

Greetings! I'm working on a rather flat-topped ash hollow form right now. While it's not perfectly flat on top, it does have a pretty shallow angle from the opening to the sides of the form (see pics below). I'm wondering the best way to tackle hollowing in this area - should I purchase an articulating hollowing tool? If so, which do you recommend? Are there alternatives to purchasing that tool? My hollowing set is the Carter & Son Mahoney kit which includes both a straight and a swan bar, but I'm not sure the swan will reach...I can also reshape the opening to be larger if it would help accommodate tools. Any and all advice appreciated! ~Maggie

 

[Kevin Jenness]

Those broad flat shoulders are hard to reach, but your opening is pretty large. Try your existing swan bar. If it won't reach a Jamieson bar with the curved toolholder in the hook end should do it.
boring bar
bent assembly

Rolly Munro's multi-link setup should work, but $$. Munro

Both have 3/4" bars and should work with your Carter handle. For larger forms you may want a captured hollowing rig but that is another subject.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Making that neck a little shorter may help also and I think it would look better.

 

[Maggie Shapiro]

Those broad flat shoulders are hard to reach, but your opening is pretty large. Try your existing swan bar. If it won't reach a Jamieson bar with the curved toolholder in the hook end should do it.
boring bar
bent assembly

Rolly Munro's multi-link setup should work, but $$. Munro

Both have 3/4" bars and should work with your Carter handle. For larger forms you may want a captured hollowing rig but that is another subject.

Thank you Kevin! I hadn't heard of Munro before, looked it up and even though it's $$ it seems to have multiple uses and do everything I'd need it to do for any kind of form. Have you used this tool before? Thanks!

 

[Maggie Shapiro]

Making that neck a little shorter may help also and I think it would look better.

Thank you! Yes I haven't finished the neck yet but I will take a bit off and see how that helps.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

Thank you Kevin! I hadn't heard of Munro before, looked it up and even though it's $$ it seems to have multiple uses and do everything I'd need it to do for any kind of form. Have you used this tool before? Thanks!

No, I haven't. I have a similar shielded cutter (ProForme) which is very fast cutting in some situations but can be tricky to get the hood adjusted correctly. I also have an old JTTools bar with several pivoting links, which will reach pretty much anywhere, but the more links and adjustability the more vibration. I use the Jamieson bar most often, it is simple, solid and very adjustable though not suited for very small openings.

 

[Maggie Shapiro]

Thanks so much for all the info!

 

[Doug Freeman]

I also use Jamieson’s 3/4” bar with the straight and curved swivel tool holder (I use his captive system). The swivel will go through ~1-1/4” hole.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I also use Jamieson’s 3/4” bar with the straight and curved swivel tool holder (I use his captive system). The swivel will go through ~1-1/4” hole.

The swivel will actually go through a smaller hole, as it is 3/4" in diameter, same as the boring bar. 1" is about the practical minimum to provide some maneuvering room for the bar and that depends on the vessel's shape. My openings tend to be at least 1 1/16"-1 1/8" when using that setup.

 

[Maggie Shapiro]

The swivel will actually go through a smaller hole, as it is 3/4" in diameter, same as the boring bar. 1" is about the practical minimum to provide some maneuvering room for the bar and that depends on the vessel's shape. My openings tend to be at least 1 1/16"-1 1/8" when using that setup.

Great thank you!

 

[Doug Freeman]

The swivel will actually go through a smaller hole, as it is 3/4" in diameter, same as the boring bar. 1" is about the practical minimum to provide some maneuvering room for the bar and that depends on the vessel's shape. My openings tend to be at least 1 1/16"-1 1/8" when using that setup.

With the curved swivel sticking out at an angle it takes a bit larger hole to get the bar end to the right through the hole, and that is the setup needed to get a flatter shouldered piece done.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

With the curved swivel sticking out at an angle it takes a bit larger hole to get the bar end to the right through the hole, and that is the setup needed to get a flatter shouldered piece done.

Now that I think about it I may well have used another tool (Hunter Baron) to reach the shoulder area closest to the opening, allowing a smaller hole due to its thin neck. No wonder I have so many tools. In any case, the Jamieson bar is my most commonly used hollower and a good value.