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Anybody have a Carter Multirest?

Odie

Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
TOTW Team
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Recently, I noticed my Oneway Bowl Steady wheels were not running exactly true radially. To be honest, I'm not sure they have worn, or they were that way all along. My Oneway bowl steady has been in constant use for about five to seven years, so they could have worn out of round with use. The wheels originally supplied with the OBS are mostly a rubber like material around a small central hub and bearing.

I've noticed the Carter wheels have a large hub with a thin rubber material covering. It seems like flexing would be much less. I'm guessing that the flexing of the rubber used for the OBS is likely to be central to the reasons why it might wear with use......?

Anyway, if you have the Carter wheels, can you tell me if they are running exactly true. (Looking from the axle end, is the radius the exact same length throughout the circumference?)

I'm thinking about purchasing a set of the Carter wheels to replace the original OBS wheels..............

Click to see the Carter wheels:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...-MultiRest-Replacement-Wheel/carter+multirest
There is also a video there which I've studied.....and there, it looks as though the Carter wheels are running exactly true......but, since it's a video, I'm not completely sure about that........😕

ooc
 
Odie-

Years ago I went to Academy Sports & Outdoors and bought in-line skate wheels and bearings. There is wheels for outside such as concrete and wheels for inside. I got the ones for inside and they seem to have the same soft wheel as that came on the Oneway bowl steady that I use all the time.

Gary
 
Odie-

Years ago I went to Academy Sports & Outdoors and bought in-line skate wheels and bearings. There is wheels for outside such as concrete and wheels for inside. I got the ones for inside and they seem to have the same soft wheel as that came on the Oneway bowl steady that I use all the time.

Gary

How about your wheels, Garry? Are they still running true?

Mine are only off by a small amount.......maybe not much more than ten or twenty thousandths, but for something high speed like what we're using these for, the closer to perfectly round would serve the purpose much better.

ooc
 
Now have a set of the Carter wheels on the way. Will report back with my findings. I expect they will run true, but the real test will be time.......

ooc

Still interested in other's input, if there is any........😀

.
 
Now have a set of the Carter wheels on the way. Will report back with my findings. I expect they will run true, but the real test will be time.......

ooc

Still interested in other's input, if there is any........😀

.

The Carter wheels arrived, and it was a disappointment.

The Carter wheels look well engineered and a much better option than the usual skate wheels these kind of devices normally have. It appears to be designed for this specific purpose. The plastic hub is extra large, and requires a thin rubber tire. This minimizes flexing. The axle isn't just a standard bolt, but appears to be machined to run true. The Carter wheel, as near as I can tell by eye, revolves perfectly true.

The Carter wheel has a different sized thread on the axle bolt, so it's not adaptable without modification. It could be done by drilling out the hole in the OW scissors, but the original wheels could no longer be used. I'm unwilling to do that.

This whole thing was experimental, and there was no guarantee that an improvement in OBS performance would be the result.

The Carter wheels will be returned.

ooc
 
It's been a long night.......but, I'm used to this! 😀

The mental gears were turning, and sometimes you just have to "do it now", or it'll never get done........😉

I was able to true up the original OBS wheels to revolve a little more truer......not perfect, but better. By running the wheels on a bare faceplate while delicately holding a 150gt disc to it, I was able to bring the run-out to about .008". This is much better than it was.

After installing a bowl in progress (roughed and trued), I did some experimenting with the trued OBS wheels, and ended up redoing a previous modification. The tensioning spring I had been using has been replaced with rubber bands. The problem was the tension on the spring was not adjustable, but the rubber bands are by how many bands are used, size, and wraps around the handle.

The original spring modification has been discussed before, and some of you here know that I've been using it occasionally for OBS use. I specialize in thin-wall bowls, and when the walls are thin (even when MC is at a low percentage), warp is inevitable. When that warp gets to a certain point, a bowl steady won't work, unless the wheel can give-and-take with the warp. It's these times when I've not been locking down the wheel scissors and have used the spring pressure to give more freedom of movement to the wheels. When the warp gets to a certain point, nether the added movement of the wheels, nor a speed reduction can overcome the obstacle.......the rubber bands are better, as the adjustable wheel pressure has the added benefit of further increasing the usable range of movement. All of this is made better because the tension is more controllable..........

Most of you are using the resilience of the wheels to deal with a small amount of warp while using the OW bowl steady, and the spring/rubber bands increase the efficiency to a further degree.........for most bowls, the modification isn't used, and I use the OBS just as everyone else does, but it's very helpful to my turning efforts occasionally........when I need it, I NEED it!

Probably nobody really cares about all this........but, to me, what happened last night was a revelation! 😀

.......can't wait to get back out to the shop, but I'm really tired right now!

ooc

The left photo shows the old spring modification.......middle pic is with rubber bands...........
 

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Keep it up, Odie. You're a Renaissance man with a passion to learn and share and I enjoy reading about the discoveries of your inquiring mind.
Ditto. Odie rejuvenates the forum, Gretch


Hey, thanks Bill and Gretch........

Sometimes, it's the accumulation of failures that ultimately open the doors to success!

......and, I've got a lot of practice at failing! Not only that, sometimes what I thought was a success, wasn't. 😀

ooc
 
Hey, thanks Bill and Gretch........

Sometimes, it's the accumulation of failures that ultimately open the doors to success!

......and, I've got a lot of practice at failing! Not only that, sometimes what I thought was a success, wasn't. 😀

ooc

Failures create innovation , but the wheels (I don't think) will help that much. 008" is more that the wood may move , even a less out of round wheel will work. You can true up a normal skate wheel that had the same ID and have the same effect. If the Carters cost more, it was a lost cause. The wheels just need to kiss the turning, in this case with the Oneway steady rest, you don't get as much contact as with a "real" steady rest which would have 4+ wheels contacting the piece. But maybe that wasn't the object here.
With the steady rest it needs to contact the work in the area of contention. In this case the two wheels you have. If they don't ride steady, it can be the out of round of the wood or could be the fact there is only two wheels
 
The wheels just need to kiss the turning, in this case with the Oneway steady rest, you don't get as much contact as with a "real" steady rest which would have 4+ wheels contacting the piece. But maybe that wasn't the object here.

Four is a chuck, for practical purposes. The Oneway with two wheels, one stabilizing and setting thickness opposite the point of tool contact, the other dampening any movement induced in the piece afterward, is designed to get you the same thickness of material all the way round. What happens on the side opposite where you're cutting won't affect this.

You can't get round if you allow the tool to move in and out, nor if the steady doesn't steady.
 
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