Any ideas to shrink a hole in a scissor case?

[dickhob]

I make scissor travel cases for embroidery scissors. They friction fit into a drilled hole in the end grain.

I usually do a decent job at getting the holes correct to give me a nice fit. But I miss a nice fit more than I'd like to. I start with a 3/8 hole and follow through with a tapered 1/4 bit. I'm looking for a bit that would do everything in one operation, but so far have been unsuccessful.

So when I do blow the sizing and get a sloppy fit I need to tighten it up. I'd prefer not to plug the hole and re-drill, but right now that seems to be my best shot.

I'm also thinking about filling the hole with some kind of pliable material and using the scissors to mold a tight opening, but that will continue to hold after repeated usage. However I have no idea what I need to look for.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
Dick Hob

 

[hockenbery]

Dick,

My first thought is to make the hole before you turn it.

Make a three piece glue up. Center section as thick as the scissors and bandsaw out the slot.
If the center section is a contrasting wood this can add to the design.

Glue and turn.

Another thought is to use a router on matching faces, 1/2 the depth of the scissors glue together.

If you don't like the glue joint split the wood. Route the faces and glue.

With a router you can make a little stand with a guide in it to make the same pattern exactly every time.

Al

 

[Bill Boehme]

My thought about getting a good fit is to drill the 3/8 inch hole slightly undersized and then use a tapered hand reamer to custom fit the hole to the scissors. The reamers are designed for metal, but I think that they would work satisfactorily on wood s long as you do not need to remove a lot.

 

[DirkFalther]

shrink a hole in a scissor case

Dick,

You may want to consider using a rubber grommet just inside the opening to allow for variations in the hole size or scissor dimensions and keep a snug fit on the scissors. Most of the auto parts stores have various grommet selections that could fit that size of scissors. You could grind down the short side of an appropriate size Allen wrench to create a scraper to cut the inside cove to seat the grommet. Just be sure to position the cutting edge of the Allen wrench angled downward in a scrapping position so you don't get a catch. You might be able to use just one or two sizes of drill bits, since the grommet might provide enough holding friction so that the end of the scissors could just "float" in the case.

Dirk Falther

 

[dickhob]

Al- I think a glue joint is out, even with contrasting woods. I've got an artist who wants to paint them in maple and I'm thinking of burls and exotic woods. I can never get an acceptable joint.

Bill- Adjusted my drilling this afternoon. I did do an undersized hole and flared it a bit for the top of the scissors. Then used a smaller bit to tighten up on the center section of the scissor. Finally a 3/16 bit to take me to the bottom. Hole depth for each step is important, but its giving me the best friction fit so far. I tried a ream, but the trick is to get the right taper- which I didn't. Finding the right taper by trial and error could get pretty expensive.

Dirk- That's sort of the lines I was thinking about stuffing the hole. I was thinking along the lines of the bottom half of the hole, but I guess there's no reason it couldn't work in the top half. Trick here is going to be getting a good fit. I don't have a lot of wall thickness to work with - about 1/16in.

This is what I was hoping for- ideas. Juices are flowin'- Keep 'em coming.
Thanks
Dick

 

[Rob Wallace]

This is what I was hoping for- ideas. Juices are flowin'- Keep 'em coming.
Thanks
Dick

What about gluing in a strip/piece of cork sheet? - It's somewhat resilient and will conform the the irregularities of the scissor profile....

Just a thought...

Rob

 

[Jim Roberts]

Was just looking at the Miller Dowel Trufit drill bit at Woodcraft. It is a tapered bit that makes a hole for the stepped dowels used instead of regular dowel pins.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004679/4135/1X-Miller-Dowel-Trufit-Drill-Bit.aspx

It's doesn't solve the issue of the loose fit you currently have but may eliminate the problem in the future. Hope this helps.

Jim Roberts

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill- Adjusted my drilling this afternoon. I did do an undersized hole and flared it a bit for the top of the scissors. Then used a smaller bit to tighten up on the center section of the scissor. Finally a 3/16 bit to take me to the bottom. Hole depth for each step is important, but its giving me the best friction fit so far. I tried a ream, but the trick is to get the right taper- which I didn't. Finding the right taper by trial and error could get pretty expensive.

I think that I got my tapered reamer at Ace Hardware. The brand is General which is sort of like Harbor Freight tools and didn't cost much. You might also try a tapered round file.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have also purchased rubber tubing at the hardware store that is tan colored and very pliable sort of like surgical tubing. The main thing would be figuring out how to keep it from coming out of the hole. Maybe Goop would work.

 

[dickhob]

I really appreciate the feedback.

Does anyone know if it is practical for a machine shop to profile a reamer without breaking the bank? If I did that is something like that easy to keep sharp?

Thanks
Dick

 

[egsiegel]

Dick,

You may want to consider using a rubber grommet just inside the opening to allow for variations in the hole size or scissor dimensions and keep a snug fit on the scissors. Most of the auto parts stores have various grommet selections that could fit that size of scissors. You could grind down the short side of an appropriate size Allen wrench to create a scraper to cut the inside cove to seat the grommet. Just be sure to position the cutting edge of the Allen wrench angled downward in a scrapping position so you don't get a catch. You might be able to use just one or two sizes of drill bits, since the grommet might provide enough holding friction so that the end of the scissors could just "float" in the case.

Dirk Falther

this was my first thought too.

 

[Robert Arnold]

There are reamers that luthiers use for tuning pegs that are a close match to the profile of embroidery scissors. You can get them through most luthier suppliers. I believe Grizzly also sells some of them that are inexpensive.

 

[Rick Meier]

In Issue #43 – June 2013 of Woodturning Design - this was a featured project and the author used a small rare earth magnet to hold the scissors in place. You can get the back issue here... http://www.woodturningdesign.com/backissues/index.shtml

 

[Dean Center]

For the currently oversized holes, you might coat the sides of the hole with some epoxy. It would decrease the diameter while providing a cushioning effect. I have used epoxy to coat the inside of goblets to prevent staining and the liquid invading the wood and it's not really hard, if you have a liquid epoxy. I used rod builder thread finish epoxy, cuz I have some and it's liquid at room temp. If you nuke epoxy for 10-15 seconds in your microwave, it makes it more runny, without otherwise changing the properties, and would make regular plastic bottle epoxy work OK. (yes, Bill, I know what viscosity is, but everybody will understand runny )

 

[AlanZ]

If you want a perfect fit, consider using something like Sugru. I've used it several times, and find it to be incredible.

http://sugru.com/

 

[john lucas]

David Reed Smith wrote a great article for Woodturning Design on making an oval shaped holder for scissors. Don't remember how he held them in but it's a great design.

 

[john lucas]

Oogoo will make a great rubber molding material to hold the scissors. There was an article on that in the AAW Journal about 3 or 4 months ago. It's basically just Clear Silicone Caulking and corn starch mixed about 50/50 (this varies a lot depending on what you want to do with it. Push it down in the scissor holder, coat the scissors with paste wax and shove them in. Let it dry over night and it should be formed correctly. You can color it with paints or inks as you mix it if you want it to be something other than the off white it dries naturally.

 

[dickhob]

Remember guys, I don't have a lot to work with here. I'm currently drilling 3 holes- 3/8, 19/64 and 3/16 so I have a stepped taper. My blank is 5/8. By the time I cut the flair at the top, I have around 1/16 wall thickness. As I shape the outside of the case, I assume I'm getting pretty close to the inside hole. I really need to cut a case in half to see exactly what I'm working with.

As I see it the problem with gromets, etc is keeping them in.

The epoxy sounds promising if I can get a thin coat. I'm not sure just how "soft" it will be when cured.

I just ordered some Sugru from Amazon. It says it bonds to wood so will have to see. Pricy stuff- I'll have to see how far it will go.

Scilicon and cornstarch. Can't get much cheaper than that. I don't know about staying in place. I;m thinking something like a 1/8 allen wrench ground down to give me a few shallow groves in the top hole.

This is great!! I love brainstorming this stuff almost as much as turning.

Thanks for the ideas.
Dick Hob

 

[Owen Lowe]

Since you first posted your question, I have been thinking that the plastic drywall anchors may work. Was going to test out my idea before posting but just haven't gotten a rountuit. They seem about the right diameter and can be clipped at either end depending on if the opening holds the scissors or the other end does.

Do with that suggestion what you will.

 

[john lucas]

Silicone and Corn starch is the home made version of Sugru. Mix it up, stuff it in the hole, stick in the scissors with wax on them. Let it dry and pull them out. I haven't tried it but it should work. I have been using it to make the icing on my cupcakes. It's a little messy is all but cleans up fairly easy with water before it sets.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I like John's Oogoo idea the best. The scissors could be wrapped in a couple layers of Saran wrap or similar product instead of putting grease on them.

 

[john lucas]

Not grease Bill, wax. Actually Petroleum jelly works fantastic (OK I guess that's kind of a grease) You actually might need to put something on to fill any gaps especially if the scissors go in beyond the hinge screw. You don't want the compound leaking into these areas other wise it will be difficult to remove the scissors. Been there done that.

 

[hwahl]

I ran into a similar problem - ended up using medium CA glue - swab it where you need it with a Q-tip - hit it with accelerator - test fit. It will give a little during curing as well.
- Hought