Has anyone ever used, or heard of, a tool named The Hardwood Scalpel ? I bought one off the closeout table at our local Rockler several years ago. It appeared to be used and the clerk at the store said he had never seen one before, so it was not a normal stock item. I made the assumption that it was some sort of parting tool with a replaceable 1/6" x 1/2" x 4-1/2"L. M-2 blade. I can understand why I have never heard of or seen one before or since, because regardless how I sharpened it or presented it to the wood the cuts were mediocre at best. It has languished at the back of a cabinet since shortly after I purchased it. The parting tool thread reminded me that I had it and got me thinking, maybe it has a different use, other than what I was trying to do with it. Any insight on this thing would be enlightening and appreciated.
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Another parting tool question.
- Thread starter Jake Debski
- Start date
I don't have one, but if you can give us a picture, I'm sure it would be appreciated by a few here......so we can get a good idea of what you're talking about.
thanks
otis of cologne
thanks
otis of cologne
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
It sounds like an Oland parting tool. At least I think he is the one that made it. It has a groove in the side that accepts the machinist parting tool cutter. this can be adjusted for length. it cut pretty clean but was a pain to have to adjust it all the time to get the proper length. It also wouldn't cut very deep. I gave it away at our club tool auction last year because I never used it.
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- May 16, 2005
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Looks awful blunt to me, Jake. Shaped like a Bedan or the Sorby to give clearance, but the "bevel" is too blunt to work in a peeling position. You're committed to scrape.
I Googled it yesterday, and it seems they've folded their tent as of a few years ago.
A conventional parting tool has much more end relief than yours, although the side relief is impressive. So, what they said, or try grinding more of a bevel; save the picture if you want to undo.
Joe
A conventional parting tool has much more end relief than yours, although the side relief is impressive. So, what they said, or try grinding more of a bevel; save the picture if you want to undo.
Joe
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
MM it works great in a peeling cut. Except for the limited depth I liked the tool a lot. The side clearance really lets it cut effortlessly.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
funny, when I Googled Hardwood Scalpel, I came across my own website, and the company Brandnew, but it isn't there anymore.
I suppose it is based on how deep you want to go. One of John Jordan's friends has a good inexpensive thin parting tool, Chris Stott's is pretty good and then there's the Glaser with a Tantung G insert that is that sort of tool and almost indestructible parting tool.
The Glaser is about the only one that is for real deep parting.
I suppose it is based on how deep you want to go. One of John Jordan's friends has a good inexpensive thin parting tool, Chris Stott's is pretty good and then there's the Glaser with a Tantung G insert that is that sort of tool and almost indestructible parting tool.
The Glaser is about the only one that is for real deep parting.
oops..........incoming!
Ok, this a.m. I ground an approximate 55* relief on the cutter. Used a slip to de-burr and polish the edge. Set the rest close, rubbing the bevel, I slowly raised the handle. Wispy shavings till about 3/32 deep. Now I've had my share of memorable catches, but this is the first time I needed to change my underwear. The cutter shattered,with one hell of a BANG, in about 4 pieces, I say 4 because I'm still looking for the fourth. I used a magnifying glass examine the kerf, but nothing jumps out as the cause. Now its got me, I will see if I can find a replacement blade and try yet again.
Ok, this a.m. I ground an approximate 55* relief on the cutter. Used a slip to de-burr and polish the edge. Set the rest close, rubbing the bevel, I slowly raised the handle. Wispy shavings till about 3/32 deep. Now I've had my share of memorable catches, but this is the first time I needed to change my underwear. The cutter shattered,with one hell of a BANG, in about 4 pieces, I say 4 because I'm still looking for the fourth. I used a magnifying glass examine the kerf, but nothing jumps out as the cause. Now its got me, I will see if I can find a replacement blade and try yet again.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
You should be able to find a replacement blade. Try Enco or possibly even Grizzly. If that fails MSCdirect should have them. These are very hard steels designed for cutting metal. That's probably why they have the steep grind. As I said earlier. I left mine with the grind that came on it and it cut great. I wonder if you came off the bevel and the tool tried to roll. That would lead to a good catch.
That being said I prefer the point on a parting tool to be lower so the forces are below center if possible. It is less likely to catch this way. On a diamond parting tool you can't grind lower than half way. The same is true for my paring knife tool but for my others I grind them in such a way that the cutting tip is below center. This greatly reduces the chance of them rolling from side to side and getting a catch.
That being said I prefer the point on a parting tool to be lower so the forces are below center if possible. It is less likely to catch this way. On a diamond parting tool you can't grind lower than half way. The same is true for my paring knife tool but for my others I grind them in such a way that the cutting tip is below center. This greatly reduces the chance of them rolling from side to side and getting a catch.
This tool looks very much like a thin bladed parting tool that used to be made by BCT (Bierton Craft Turnery). It also consisted of a replaceable 1/16" fluted blade that was replaceable and the amount of projection out of the holder could be controlled by the user.
I think it would make a very fine parting tool for boxes if sharpened to a more acute bevel.
I think it would make a very fine parting tool for boxes if sharpened to a more acute bevel.
"I left mine with the grind that came on it and it cut great. I wonder if you came off the bevel and the tool tried to roll. That would lead to a good catch."
John, I don't know if the tool rolled, obviously I did something wrong. When using your version of this tool did you put the cutter on the rest or the holder? I've always used the holder but never felt quite right about the cutter hanging out unsupported, and as I said earlier the cuts were never clean.
"I think it would make a very fine parting tool for boxes if sharpened to a more acute bevel."
Michael, I don't know. The depth of cut is very limiting in what you can do with it. When I get a replacement blade and satisfy my curiosity, I'll send it to you and let you have some fun. Maybe in your hands it will perform better.
John, I don't know if the tool rolled, obviously I did something wrong. When using your version of this tool did you put the cutter on the rest or the holder? I've always used the holder but never felt quite right about the cutter hanging out unsupported, and as I said earlier the cuts were never clean.
"I think it would make a very fine parting tool for boxes if sharpened to a more acute bevel."
Michael, I don't know. The depth of cut is very limiting in what you can do with it. When I get a replacement blade and satisfy my curiosity, I'll send it to you and let you have some fun. Maybe in your hands it will perform better.
Jake, the tool you pictured is very similar to one manufactured by Beech Street Tools (not BCT as I mentioned earlier) and is called a precision parting tool in their literature. The tool you have may be a copy and may not be the same tool at all.
I suspect the tool should have a fairly sharp bevel and be used bevel up so that the spurs created at the point score the wood cleanly about the part. The tool would rest on the holder and not directly on the fluted part on the blade. The projection from the holder for a thin blade like this would be limited. I first saw a tool similar to this in Bill Duce's book on Small Scale Woodturning.
I suspect the tool should have a fairly sharp bevel and be used bevel up so that the spurs created at the point score the wood cleanly about the part. The tool would rest on the holder and not directly on the fluted part on the blade. The projection from the holder for a thin blade like this would be limited. I first saw a tool similar to this in Bill Duce's book on Small Scale Woodturning.
Michael, I believe these are two quite different tools. The one I have has no flute on the cutter and needs to be used bevel down. It has a shape similar to a T, but the horizontal bar is short and thick(come to think of it I just described my self somewhat)😀 I just ordered a couple of new cutters from Enco as suggested by John L. So I will get to play some more when they arrive.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Jake I always used it with the tool rest on the big flat part of the metal housing. I used it with the wide part of the cutter at the top. I've certainly had my share of catches over the years but fortunately none with that tool.
Steve, do you know where to get replacement Tantung G tips for the Glaser parting tool?
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
You would have to hit up one of the previous Glaser dealers I suspect. I only used mine a few times so I never needed a replacement.