Another Convert to the Easy Side

[Burt Alcantara]

I've been getting so frustrated roughing out blanks so I decided to buy the EasyRougher and Finisher.

These tools are amazing. I had a 25# 19" piece of dry walnut a neighbor gave me but was reluctant to touch it fearing a bout with Mike Tyson would be in order. Today, I received the EasyTools. Tried them out on some small blanks. Easy. Ha-ha easy.

So. Make or break time. Mounted the walnut. One side was relatively flat but the other was uneven bark on the entire side. Got it balanced and began the roughing. Had a few initial bangs but slowed myself down and began to get the blank round. While there was still some effort involved, the process went quickly with little pain.

The Rougher cut so easily and smoothly that I didn't realize I was cutting into a substantial amount of bark. Got it shaped, then worked on tear out. Broke down and used my 1/2 V to shear scrape. Probably could have done it with the Rougher but didn't have the confidence.

Hollowed out the inside initially with the Rougher then switched to the Finisher. Again, ha-ha easy. I imagined the walnut was chocolate and I was just stirring it up. Smooth. Easy. Wow!

The best analogy of these tools is it lets me shape wood the way potters shape clay. Turning clay at a wheel is an organic experience. Clay is added or subtracted. Turning wood is a subtractive process. With the Easy tools, the wood is shaped like clay, the tools weaving back and forth, a little here, a little there.

I'm sure advanced and experienced turners can emulate this type of tool handling with traditional tools but I can't and don't have decades to learn. I want to get to the form. To me, hollowing wood is like taking out the garbage. I want that process to be as unobtrusive as possible.

As to the cost of the tools and the cost of the inserts, bah humbug. The amount of time I save with them, the fewer rounds I get beat up, the improved quality of my work all make these tools cheap.

Burt

 

[n7bsn]

Burt
I started out "un-convinced", then I arrived at Super Wed at CS-USA this week, where the owner was demoing and discussing the tools.
He even gave us a chance to try them, both then and here at the Utau Symposium.

Well... I'm taking an Easy Rougher home with me.

I'm not convinced that I can't get a better finish then the Easy Finisher with a good gouge though

 

[John Neugebauer]

I too am a fan....

Hello Burt,
Welcome to the club. 🙂 To me turning is a hobby and should be fun. I know there are purists who believe that that some tools constitutes "cheating" I never understood why that tool is so controversial. I mean if someone came out with a different grind on a fingernail gouge everyone would cheer!
I also know that guys like me that turn only dry wood really appreciate this tool. Enjoy your new tool!!!!! 🙂

Note to purists: lathes should be treadle powered! 😀

 

[Vaughn]

So far the only people I know who've had anything bad to say about the Ci1 and it's stablemates are folks who've not used one. 😉 Just got my Ci0 this week, and it's another eye-opening tool. I don't expect it to replace my gouges, but it's a great addition that makes some tasks easier for me.

 

[Odie]

So far the only people I know who've had anything bad to say about the Ci1 and it's stablemates are folks who've not used one. 😉 Just got my Ci0 this week, and it's another eye-opening tool. I don't expect it to replace my gouges, but it's a great addition that makes some tasks easier for me.

I got a private message from someone who has used one, and he thought it was a gimmick. He did not respond to previous threads because he did not want the grief from those who argue without supporting evidence, or justify their investment.

It's true that I have not used a Ci1, so my input on this subject has never been from a "user' prospective. There is a lot of new tools and gadgets that enter the woodturning marketplace all the time. I spend my money on these things occasionally, and most of the time I do not. Sometimes I become a "believer" in the new product, and probably 80% of the time, I feel the trial was a waste of my money.

A good example of money well spent is the Hunter tool. There, was a definite answer to the similar question I asked about the Hunter, that I also asked about the Ci1...... What physical properties were different about the Hunter, over standard scrapers? To that question, the answer was forthcoming........ The Hunter has a recessed top cutting surface which made smaller angles of the cutting edge possible.

I have come to the conclusion that the Ci1 is no different than the edge a standard scraper can apply to the wood. Some have suggested the carbide is sharper, or the Ci1 tool itself is more rigid than what's available with standard scrapers......but, neither is correct. I will readily admit that the carbide edge will last longer, but this is of small consequence to those who have a thorough understanding of how to sharpen an edge.

Unless there is an actual physical difference between the Ci1 and standard scrapers, something that will make performance enhanced, then how can anyone conclude any other way than I did? 😕

Now, I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested in hearing about an actual difference........but, all we seem to ever get is praise for the Ci1 in the abstract......nothing that makes any analytical sense at all. If there is something that is truly different in the physical sense......consider this an invitation to discuss that right here on this thread.

To be convinced there really is something special about the Ci1, there are some of us who need more than, "It's just better......It makes a smoother cut.......or, because you haven't tried one (ie: spent the $$$$!), you are not qualified to comment."

ooc

 

[Burt Alcantara]

Odie,
I was getting to the point where I was turning out pieces done almost entirely with scrapers. What I especially liked about them was the ability to swing back and forth. My style of turning is not traditional in that I like to shape wood in sections, more like clay.

I found scrapers allowed me to this with no problem.

Things began to change when arthritis began to attack deeper into my hands, shoulders and elbows, and even my feet. The hardest part of turning was roughing out blanks so I began to pay more attention and make better, smoother curves on the bandsaw. Still, I had to rough them out and it was getting to the point that I could only stand to do one turning a day, regardless of size.

Logic told me to try the Easy way out. Man, was that ever the right choice. The Easy tools are not scrapers. In fact, the ribbons that come off the wood are more delicate then anything I can produce with my gouges right off the Tormek. Dry wood included.

There is no merit in justifying the raison d'etre of these tools. For me, they have greatly reduced a major physical barrier to turning. They suit my style of turning, both aesthetically and physically. I look forward to any new tools that Craig produces and will buy them sight unseen, that's how much I like them and I much I respect Craig's work.

Burt

 

[Odie]

Howdy Burt.......

I understand that you are happy with the Ci1, and that's important.

I also understand that it's not used in a way that is generally associated with a fine scraping, or shear scraping cut, but it definitely is used similarly to a scraper that's being used for a roughing cut.....

.....and, the physical difference between the two is.......?

ooc

 

[MichaelMouse]

Odie,
I was getting to the point where I was turning out pieces done almost entirely with scrapers. What I especially liked about them was the ability to swing back and forth. My style of turning is not traditional in that I like to shape wood in sections, more like clay.

I found scrapers allowed me to this with no problem.

That's the way I swing my gouges on irregular surfaces. No sense I can find to beat myself to death. A-B-C from a pivot point. Of course, I shave broadly rather than deep, and there's almost no pressure on the arm. Not a fan of scrapers on lathe work, love 'em on the flat or carved.

 

[hockenbery]

The big advantage of the carbide scrapers is they stay sharp.
Rough with a conventional scraper of m2 steel and you have to hit the grinder every 30 seconds to keep it working well.

Scrapers have a short learning curve. It takes a few days of instruction to master the side ground gouge.

If your having fun and a tool works for you that is great. Just don't close your mind to increasing your fun and turning accomplishments.

If you have a chance to see a good bowl turner like Mike Mahoney, Trent Bosch, Al Stirt, and many others .... They use a side ground gouge, they have no stress, the wood fly off the bowl leaving a marvelous curve and and a fine surface.
Watch them in person or on video.
You might be tempted switch to the bowl gouge.

Happy Turning,
Al

 

[kenvalaska]

Odie said

Unless there is an actual physical difference between the Ci1 and standard scrapers, something that will make performance enhanced, then how can anyone conclude any other way than I did?


I do not have a easy rougher. I looked hard at them at the Dessert Woodturners Roundup demo and was struck with how the edges were better shaped and had better relief angles than metal inserts. I did not bite there, but have worked with the carbide insert wood planers (Alex Klu pointed to these as a "home brew" option in earlier messages) and these inserts are NOT scraping wood as they plane boards. The insert cutters on the planer do produce a shear cut on wood and make lots of shavings of the type associated with shearing cuts done by a planing edge (hand plane or skew). As with hand plane blades, the shallow curve keeps the edges from digging in, and the tiny curves closely approximate a smooth surface.

My best description would be a segment of about a 15-20 inch diameter hunter tool- e.g. a shallow arc with relief angles and edges more like the hunter than like a traditional scraper.

If you do not want to spend $50 on a set of cutters that Alex identified, the $20 bucks or so for the cutter and a bar of steel is what it takes. I like to use the insert handles anyway.

Summary -- these cutters ain't scrapers.

 

[Odie]

Summary -- these cutters ain't scrapers.

Yep.....We are in agreement about that, and this has been previously acknowledged in an earlier post, Ken......


Here's my quote:

I also understand that it's not used in a way that is generally associated with a fine scraping, or shear scraping cut, but it definitely is used similarly to a scraper that's being used for a roughing cut......

My best description would be a segment of about a 15-20 inch diameter hunter tool- e.g. a shallow arc with relief angles and edges more like the hunter than like a traditional scraper.

Are the carbide inserts you're using not ground flat across the top?......or are they reliefed, ala Hunter tool?

If they are ground flat across the top, then there is nothing in their grind that cannot be duplicated with a standard scraper edge......or is that not correct?

I have a planer, and understand how a planer blade is sharpened, and how a planer works. I also know how a lathe works......apples and oranges, here. No matter how much one would like to compare the performance of a planer to a planer blade used for a lathe tool, it can't logically be done........simply, because a planer is not a lathe.

If there is something that is truly different about how the Ci1 performs, then there is something different about it that can be shown to be different. There are HSS scraper shapes of various thicknesses and widths......and anyone with a grinder can produce an edge or shape of their choosing...... From what I can see, there are square and rounded Ci1 carbide cutter bits, and I'm not seeing anything that is different or unique.

If I had name recognition within the AAW, I'd get a Ci1 EasyRougher......simply because those members would want to talk about how magically they perform.......and because I also own one, I'd let them! 😉

ooc

 

[Burt Alcantara]

We've all been fooled. Craig has put some kind of Kool-Aid in us and put us into a stupor thinking that these tools are something special. Actually, I woke up. They are card scrapers. Nothing more.

However, I like my hypnotic stupor and will continue to believe that they are the best tools to come along since the scroll chuck.

Back to sleep now.

Burt...zzzzzzzz

 

[Vaughn]

I got a private message from someone who has used one, and he thought it was a gimmick. He did not respond to previous threads because he did not want the grief from those who argue without supporting evidence, or justify their investment...

And I'm betting if he'd contacted Craig, he could likely find out what he's doing wrong.

What kind of supporting evidence is he lacking? The CiX tools do what their maker claims they will do, and I stand by my earlier statement: The only people I've seen who complained about or questioned the tools are those who've not used them. (And this thread once again proves my point. The condescension here is as predictable as the tides.) I continue to be amazed by the number of folks who've tried to analyze how and why the CiX tools do what they do, and can't just accept the simple fact that they work.

And Al, please don't tell me I'm missing out on the joys of a properly-applied bowl gouge. I enjoy my gouges, too, but there are some tasks that the CiX tools do easier, faster, and with less physical strain to my hands. I'm also not justifying my investment. I've spent much more on gouges and various hollowing tools. (I use and like them all, BTW. Not justification...just admiration.) I really don't give a rat's behind if you guys do or don't use them, but I get tired of seeing the unknowing trying to preach to those of us who've actually used the tool.

If I had name recognition within the AAW, I'd get a Ci1 EasyRougher......simply because those members would want to talk about how magically they perform.......and because I also own one, I'd let them! 😉

Huh?

Burt, pass the Kool-Aid this way. I'm starting to come down and my thoughts are becoming clear again. We can't have that now, can we? 🙄

 

[kenvalaska]

Odie -- Mesa and February are a long way from Alaska -- SO i went back and checked and the arcs are 2 inchs and 4 inches. The rake was more than I usually see on Kenametal inserts for metal cutting. I do not remember if the cutter was back beveled on the screw side.

I have used all kinds of scrapers from card scrapers to scraper planes to burnished hooks edges on lathe scrapers -- I was not getting this kind of chips. For me it was providing chips more like I get with a jack plane with a wide mouth (but better than a scrub plane).

I guess I will break down and buy a few inserts and see what I get. The big lathe gets off the barge next week and I will then have the horse power to use such a tool.

 

[Chipe]

Odie, you said it in your own post. The Easy Rougher is SIMILAR to a rougher. Just like a bowl gouge is similar to a spindle gouge which is similar to a detail gouge.

The Easy Rougher is a carbide tipped cutter. It is not a scraper. It is used for light cuts but also deep plunge cuts. It can do what a scraper does, but a scraper can not do what an Easy Rougher does. A scraper cannot make deep plunge cuts, or rough out a large blank without resharpening. A scraper looses its burr quickly. There is a lot more chatter with a scraper than with an Easy Rougher.

It is physically different in use because the actual impact of the wood is directed down into the banjo, not laterally into your hands/arms. It absorbs a majority (but not all) of the heavy impact of roughing.

Yes, you are correct in stating that other tools are similar, but they are not the same.

My .02 worth.

 

[KurtB]

Easy Rougher

This discussion appears to have taken a somewhat confrontational tone.

To summarize some key ideas in this discussion: this is a newer tool that seems to do some things faster and easier than bowl gouges; some of the members would appreciate a technical explanation of why this tool would be capable of turning faster and easier, before they spend their money on another tool; some of the members feel they can do as well with a bowl gouge, etc.

None of this should be taken personally because it is the opinion of the member, right, wrong or indifferent. And we are all entitled to our opinion. Let's make this a discussion about the uses of, and the ability of the tool to do, things that make turning easier and better!

 

[Odie]

Thanks Kurt......

I wasn't sure I could respond to recent posts without bumping the hive! 😀

All along, I've maintained the notion that if the Ci1 is better, then there should be a way to demonstrate this through a description of the physical properties of the cutting edge.

Here is a simple question that seems to remain unanswered:

Are the carbide inserts you're using not ground flat across the top?......or are they reliefed, ala Hunter tool?

Here is an additional question that I hope someone will respond to:

Are you using the Ci1 exclusively for roughing a block of wood into a green bowl blank, which in turn will need further seasoning? Or, does your Ci1 have further use, once the bowl has stabilized moisture content? If so, what further use?

I'll leave it at that, and see if anyone responds to these questions.......

ooc

 

[Doug Thompson]

It's a carbide tipped cutter but when addressed perpendicular to the wood the cut is scraping , there is no cutting angle to shear the wood. It works because the edge is very sharp but the problem is it can't be resharpened or the shape changed in any way to fit what your turning. A bowl gouge is also designed to drive the gouge into the tool rest.

I met the owner of this company in Saratoga, they have the diamond shape tools and parting tools.
http://www.newedgecuttingtools.com/welcome.htm

EDIT - The Hunter is designed to shear the wood and works well on end grain.

 

[Steve Worcester]

...........If you have a chance to see a good bowl turner like Mike Mahoney, Trent Bosch, Al Stirt, and many others .... They use a side ground gouge, they have no stress, the wood fly off the bowl leaving a marvelous curve and and a fine surface....

Interesting you should bring up Al Stirt, watched him last week on a square bowl, with a scraper, bring magic to the curve. Of course the scraper was the tool, but he had it at a 45 degree angle.

The thing I don't understand here, is why are we arguing that a tool does or doesn't work well for someone?

 

[Bill Boehme]

I say if a tool works for you then go for it. The bowl police probably won't arrest anyone for using a scraper to turn a bowl -- although maybe they ought to consider arresting anyone who advocates that it is OK for beginners to use a spindle roughing gouge on a bowl. I have a friend who turns just a little and, to him, all tools are scrapers -- the way that he uses them. It might not be the most elegant solution to turning, but he gets the job done.

I watched several of the Easy Rougher videos and it is clear that it is a scraper from the way that it is used, the shape of the carbide cutter, and the large amount of dust being produced -- but it is a very sharp scraper that holds an edge quite well. The relief angle and way that it is designed to be used makes it fairly immune to catches so it is a great confidence builder. I don't feel that I need one although there are a few instances where it would come in handy for me. I think that my friend would love it and probably might turn more if he got past the fear of major catches.

There are some instances where the carbide cutters would wear out almost as quickly as any other cutting edge and the website plainly states that -- one very common example is black walnut with a high silica content.

There is no need to imply mystical powers that defy explanation -- the tool is easy to use and does what it is advertised to do. I saw one being demonstrated at SWAT, but since I have no experience with actually using it, I can't comment on how well it does on wood that is susceptible to tear out on end grain. My guess is that it would not be the best choice in those situations.

 

[Doug Thompson]

The thing I don't understand here, is why are we arguing that a tool does or doesn't work well for someone?

Just wait until you see this place in 50 years...

Then you'll walk into a Woodcraft buy wood in a package with a picture on it of the finish bowl. You will take that blank mount it on a Woodcraft chuck with predrill holes to fit... then put a memory chip in the lathe, push a button in 2 minutes the bowl will be done just like the picture.

You'll read stuff like this.

Steve; I just bought a SuperX yesterday and it does 1,200 ipm... my first bowl was done in 53 seconds.

Joe; Great, I still have the old model at 400 ipm it takes 3 minutes... it's so slow I hate to use it.

Pete; Mine broke down before the bowl was done, Gramps said to finish it by hand but that's to much work.

Sam; I did one in 48 seconds the other day.

Steve; Joe, you really need to upgrade... don't waste your time with that junk the SuperX is the only lathe to use.

etc, etc, etc.

 

[Bill Boehme]

... then put a memory chip in the lathe, push a button in 2 minutes the bowl will be done just like the picture.......etc, etc, etc.

But, it will be "hand turned" if you aren't wearing gloves when you push the button. 😉

 

[Burt Alcantara]

There are numerous compliments from users of this tool. I have not read one post where someone did not like this tool. Whether it is a scraper, a sharp stick or a blunt kitchen knife does not matter. Users have expressed an enhancement to their turning experience using these tools.

My work gets done faster and with less pain. I don't care if it this same work can be done with other tools. I am not able to achieve that goal. I can with these tools.

I expressed an opinion of this tool and why I bought it. To bring up this same stale argument every time serves no purpose and I will not partake in contributing to this thread or any other regarding tools.

Frankly, I'm become disgusted with this and all related threads.

Burt

 

[Odie]

since I have no experience with actually using it, I can't comment on how well it does on wood that is susceptible to tear out on end grain. My guess is that it would not be the best choice in those situations.

I feel the same as boehme and Doug Thompson.....if the edge is pushed straight into the wood.....it's a scraper. The only thing I can think of that would be similar in use is a very wide parting tool.

I also feel a little disgusted like Burt does. The reason the same old stale questions keep coming up, is a straight answer still hasn't been forthcoming. Now there are a couple of unanswered questions........

Go and be happy with your Easy Roughers, gentlemen. That's what turning is all about. If you are bypassing a little of the learning curve that comes with traditional tools......great......but, I hope you don't totally give up on them.

Later

ooc

 

[Alan Trout]

I don't comment much and just keep to myself most of the time. But I agree that the Easy Tools are presented as a scraper except the tool does cut in a little different action because the edge lacks a burr. That is the reason I think that it reacts different from a conventional scraper in the fact that it does not tend to self feed. Is it a scraper? Yep that is what I would call it. But it does seem to cut a bit different.

I don't have a lot of tools, Bowl gouge, a couple of regular old skews, a couple of spindle gouges, and a couple of scrapers, that is it. I tend to use my Thompson Bowl gouge for everything on bowls and have gotten pretty handy with it. However I have ran into some dry woods that were a nightmare to get what I consider a decent finish. I hate using scrapers on insides of bowls because real bad things can happen real fast. I purchased the CiO to see if it would help finishing inside of some of these tough materials. It works well. I use it more like a finishing scraper and for me it does a better job than a bowl scraper without the same risk of a catch. It pretty much does as advertised. I even think that it does better that a shear scrape on most materials.

I think where many have taken offense to these "Easy" threads is that in reading the responses the opposition side seems to be attacking proponents of the tools that if they use these tools it somehow makes them less of a turner. or it is not the right way to do it. It kind of reminds me if you use a captive hollowing tool does it make that hollow form or method any less than the guy that hand hollows? I am neither a proponent or oppositional. I feel they are tools that have their place and not everyone will use them. Thats OK there are a lot of tools I do not use and probably never will.

For gosh sakes for most this is a hobby and needs to be fun. The more people turning the better for all of us. If it makes it fun for them to go from a rough piece of wood to a finished product with the "Easy Tools" great. I still prefer to use my bowl gouge 99% of the time but If I need some help some times from a tool such as the CiO or sandpaper that is ok as well.

Good Luck

Alan

 

[Chipe]

Just wait until you see this place in 50 years...

Then you'll walk into a Woodcraft buy wood in a package with a picture on it of the finish bowl. You will take that blank mount it on a Woodcraft chuck with predrill holes to fit... then put a memory chip in the lathe, push a button in 2 minutes the bowl will be done just like the picture.

You'll read stuff like this.

Steve; I just bought a SuperX yesterday and it does 1,200 ipm... my first bowl was done in 53 seconds.

Joe; Great, I still have the old model at 400 ipm it takes 3 minutes... it's so slow I hate to use it.

Pete; Mine broke down before the bowl was done, Gramps said to finish it by hand but that's to much work.

Sam; I did one in 48 seconds the other day.

Steve; Joe, you really need to upgrade... don't waste your time with that junk the SuperX is the only lathe to use.

etc, etc, etc.

But, it will be "hand turned" if you aren't wearing gloves when you push the button. 😉

**Tongue in cheek mode on:**

Yup Maaatha, remember the good ol' days when real men used peddle powered lathes, and home-made steel tools, harvested their own wood? Those guys are the only ones that can really be called wood-turners. These new fangled lathes actually have motors on 'em! And sometimes the lathes have movable tail-stocks. Shucks, I bet in 50 years someone will come up with making a tool out of powder and call it progress, or wheels on a lathe, or maybe even some swingy thing. Heck, maybe they'll even take to putting wheels on the tools or something. Sheesh, takes the work right out of it, doesn't it? It really takes the real meaning of hand-made right out of the equation. You can't call something handmade if it's not made the original way Maaatha, it just ain't right!
**Tongue in cheek mode off.**

It's a tool for Pete's sake. I learned with a roughing gouge, still use a roughing gouge, but also use and like the easy rougher. Some like their roughing gouges but still use a Hunter from time to time. Some folks hollow by hand, others with rigs.

Really, it's 'just' a tool and not worth getting all heated up about.

 

[Chipe]

Thanks Kurt......

Here is a simple question that seems to remain unanswered: Are the carbide inserts you're using not ground flat across the top?......or are they reliefed, ala Hunter tool?

Here is an additional question that I hope someone will respond to:

Are you using the Ci1 exclusively for roughing a block of wood into a green bowl blank, which in turn will need further seasoning? Or, does your Ci1 have further use, once the bowl has stabilized moisture content? If so, what further use?
ooc

Odie, I can't speak for everyone, just for myself, but the inserts I use are ground straight across the top, beveled on the bottom. Some are square, some have rounded corners.

I use my tool to rough out green wood that needs further finishing, but also I rough out completely dry wood. For instance, a friend gave me a whole slab of kiln dried 16/4 cherry, and I cut it up into different sizes. Dry as a bone, and the roughing gouge does ok, the Easy Rougher does a little better....BUT...sometimes takes a big chunk of wood off. I think this is due to the presentation angle of the flat cutter.

I can also use the Easy Rougher to make some angled plunge cuts in a beveled shape bowl. Sometimes its hard getting a bowl gouge in there at that angle, and my bowl scrapers also have a bit of a struggle.

I don't think the Easy Rougher would make that great of a parting tool. I have not tried it, but I doubt it would work that great. It would cut on three sides at once making a very large part, but hey, if that's what you want, go for it. I have never used it as a parting tool and doubt I ever will. I use my good ol' diamond parting tool for all parting.

To remove the vast majority of my bowls inside and out I use a bowl gouge. Sometimes I use the Easy Rougher because of the angle of cut, wanting to use a 90 degree right or left angle cut to define an inner edge, wall or decoration, or to just remove some unwanted wood quickly.

I think the Easy Rougher is a good tool to 'add' to your collection. I do not think it should/could ever replace the time tested roughing gouge, bowl gouge, etc. It is just, and again this is my opinion, a supplemental tool that is extremely useful and I am glad I have it in the rack.

It does what it is supposed to do, and it does it in good order. Do you 'need' it? No. Is it useful? Absolutely.

 

[Ron Sardo]

This reminds me of the old cliche...

"You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink"

 

[Brian McInturff]

I bought one when they first came out. I'm a tool nut. I only got around to trying it the other night after reading through this thread. I said, "hey, I've got one of those, wonder how it really works". So I took it out and chucked up a piece of dried maple. I found that it knocked it down to round and to the desired depth about 3 times faster than the bowl gouge. Lots of tear out though. So, I decided to try my scraper in the same fashion. Big mistake. You can't just plunge a scraper in😀. I'm still curious as to what "answer" some of you are actually expecting though. Heck, you can use a piece of broken glass to remove wood if you present it right to the wood, i.e. scraping. I also dropped the tool rest down all the way and presented the tool in a upgrade cut. If you use a little finesse you can get a nice little curl(green wood) and no tear out. Now, what will I use it for. I'll use it to reduce blanks quickly to get close to what I want. Then I'll break out the Thompsons for everything else. Which is what I think it was intended for originally anyway.

Oh, talk about odd tools. Look at how the Japanese present their tools to the wood and look at some of the tools they use. The gouge police would have a coronary.😱

 

[Dan Mosley]

I own one also.....I can not tell you about the metal composition or the radius, or the type of carbide cutters used etc.

But, to answer Odie's original question: What i think you can do is to contact Craig and talk to him - I have found him to be very nice and eager to talk to you about anything you want - that would be my advice to get the techincal answer you may be looking for.
A couple points that may help:

1). I think it is a tool like any other you buy and if it works for you or you use it in a certain way thats great.
2). I find it very safe in the hands of someone new to the lathe (ie..kids...much safer). Cuts nicely and clean with flowing ribbons comming off on green wood.
3). Speed is your friend - Lathe speed that is - the cuts are cleaner and tear out is very little if the cutter is still sharp. I turn the speed up some on endgrain hollowing and natural edge bowls and its cuts better than any tool i can think of. Im not taking plunging cuts in the final few cuts either because you can produce alot of tear out if you do (depending on the wood etc-). With the lathe speed up some and if you slow "YOUR" speed down on the cut .......... you will have a clean finish cut
4). I have used it to hollow end grain, making cuts right to left and left to right - but mainly use it as a roughing tool. But when sharp with light cuts you can do some finish cutting also. Mine is in a Monster handle and i enjoy using it alot as do the kids that are learning.
5). Can you make one yourself? Im sure you could and the cutters are available online to buy in bulk - they are made in Germany.
6). One statment: But there only good for 20 bowls give or take depending on the wood until it dulls ....however, you can resharpen your gouge/scrapper over and over. True, but you have 4 cutting sides per cutter and they are available online to buy in bulk. (there are a couple people that carry the imported German cutters). I sent several old cutters out to alot of people and a couple buss's. do carry them. So, I do not think the cost is a real issue as some have thought. No - the ones from Grizzly are not the same. They even admit it when i spoke with them about it
Summary - its a tool to be used and a preference for me depending on what im doing -
Im glad i have one its makes me smile when i reach for it on that Monster handle when i have to hollow out endgrain especially

 

[hockenbery]

Any way you produce a good result is fine. The recipient of a bowl doesn't care how it is made.

I've seen some really nice bowls made using just a chain saw and sanding discs on a drill press.

What is important for all of us is to be open to "there may be a better way"
We should always be striving to learn more and not stop learning because we have "mastered" a particular tool.

Does a hollow form made with a hand held tool have any value greater than on made using a trapped handle?

When we teach kids we always use spindle gouges to turn beads. A spindle gouge does a fine job on beads. It is my opinion that a skew does a better job. If you plan to do lots of beads consider learning to use the skew. It doesn't make us "bad turners" to make beads with spindle gouges. We all know folks who do spectacular finials with a the lowly spindle gouge.

happy turning,
Al