Aniline Dye Finishing Process

[Dan Oliphant]

Could someone share the process details for using multiple colors of aniline dye on turnings? Has the process been documented and published anywhere?

 

[Mike Peace]

Jimmy Clewes does a lot of multiple dyes. He covers a platter project using multiple dyes in his Turnaround DVD. Maybe in his others as well.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I wonder....

http://www.learnpysanky.com/

 

[Rick M]

Jimmy Clewes does a lot of multiple dyes. He covers a platter project using multiple dyes in his Turnaround DVD. Maybe in his others as well.

Our club had Jimmy demonstrating for 2 days here last weekend, where the last thing he showed us was application of metallic leaf and coloring with aniline dyes. Aside from the potential for getting dye where you don't want it (meaning yourself or nearby objects), the process appeared surprisingly simple. He mentioned a brand (I only recall it's not currently available in the States) that he particularly favored for its variety and color stability over time, and mentioned another that's available and the next best alternative. If it matters to anyone, I'll try to get the specifics.

For the demo, he mixed very small amounts of powdered dye with denatured alcohol. You can play with the amounts to develop the intensity you want, but based on "screwdriver tip-fulls" I'd say he probably used 1/8th teaspoon or less to a couple ounces of alcohol. The piece remained chucked in the lathe and was rotated by hand as needed.

From there, using a folded edge of paper towel and a wiping motion, he applied the darkest color (blue) over the entire front face of the very nontraditional bowl (large convex top side with a tiny "bowl" area), going over it until he achieved the depth of color desired. Due to capillary action, dye absorption varies with the grain--more absorbed and darker on end grain, less absorbed and lighter on edge/side grain--so begin in side grain and work your way to end grain then return to side grain to develop evenness of color.

He next dabbed a couple of other colors (green and yellow) applied to highlight/complement certain portions of the figure in the wood (a fiddle-back grained piece of maple). Not quite satisfied with where the effect was going, Jimmy came back with more of the original color, only dabbed similarly to the other two colors and applied darker than the background.

For the last part of the dye process, he sprayed the entire surface with plain alcohol from a handheld spray bottle--cautioning to use only enough to moisten and allow the colors' edges to soften while avoiding a "flow" that would result in hard lines where the flow stops.

Once the alcohol was totally evaporated, a light sanding (grain raised by the alcohol) and final finish (tung oil finish, IIRC) produced a remarkable depth and appearance akin to what you'd imagine in a pristine aquatic paradise.

I haven't seen any if his videos (yet), but for the record, if you ever get the opportunity to see him turn (or better yet, have him instructing you as a few of us did yesterday :cool2: 😀 ), jump on it. He's a great turner and extremely personable.

 

[Dan Oliphant]

Rick, and all thanks for the input. As I stated on another forum, I think I have the basics defined and will be trying them out on some ash, eucalyptus and sycamore hollow forms that will be ready for final turning in a few weeks. Once I am to the point, that I am happy with the process, I will document it in detail and post it for all to see and use if desired.

 

[Joe Greiner]

...
From there, using a folded edge of paper towel and a wiping motion, he applied the darkest color (blue) over the entire front face of the very nontraditional bowl (large convex top side with a tiny "bowl" area), going over it until he achieved the depth of color desired. Due to capillary action, dye absorption varies with the grain--more absorbed and darker on end grain, less absorbed and lighter on edge/side grain--so begin in side grain and work your way to end grain then return to side grain to develop evenness of color.
...

Good point about end grain absorption. On a non-turned work with well-defined boundaries, I used the same wood stain throughout, but diluted it for the end grain parts. For a softer boundary, gradual dilution should be beneficial.

 

[LHauch]

I took a five day class from Jimmy last July at Craft Supplies USA - worth every penny! In his DVDs and in the class he says he prefers Chestnut dyes, which are no longer available in the US. He has also used Mylands powdered dyes in the DVDs.

One of our club members who excels in colouring also has a wide variety of Chestnut dyes that he purchased years ago and they still produce vibrant colour. The liquid aniline dye from CS works well, and their water soluble dyes can be mixed with alcohol for faster drying. Another source for powder dyes are the W. D. Lockwood dyes available at toolsforworkingwood.com - I have not tried them.

When I want to dye punky, open grained areas, I have used a cheap Badger airbrush (250, cheaper versions are available from Harbor Freight and work just fine for this) to spray on the dye. Since this type of wood soaks up dye like a sponge, applying the dye by spraying lets you control the amount that you apply.

I definitely recommend Jimmy's DVDs for learning the process.

Cheers,