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AnchorSeal while still on lathe?

Joined
May 28, 2015
Messages
1,607
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217
Location
Bainbridge Island, WA
Does anyone else feel compelled to put their green wood sealer of choice on the outside of the green bowl before reversing the blank and chucking it up for interior turning? I have some green figured Cherry I'm 1st-turning bowls out of the last couple days, and I'm being pretty aggressive, hoping it won't split. Am I crazy? Good news is, I can get more than one done in a shop-day-equivalent.😛
 
I wouldn't do that, it will make a sticky mess. You should be able to do the inside quick enough that it won't crack. Sometimes when I am turning wet/green wood and need to leave it for a while I put a plastic bag over the turning and secure it around the chuck with a rubber band. I have left them till the next day without any problem.
 
I'm with Fred on the mess.
I mist and cover with a Plastic bag if I have to leave a turning.

With a little more practice, roughouts won't take that long to hollow.

If you are really concerned about drying I would suggest misting with a plant sprayer to keep the wood from drying or a turn or two of the plastic shrink wrap.

Al
 
Jamie I do not know why your cherry has a bad rap. The cherry we cut down here turn beautifully and I rarely have a failure except when I get those catastropic catches, or some I had in the past. I turn and leave 10% of thickness , then bag in paper with chips. I air it out most every day and remove chips after 2-3 weeks. You have to open bag regularly or will get mildew in our climate.
 
I've never worked with cherry but I agree with Fred in the use of the plastic bag. If I have to leave the lathe while roughing something out I will tie a plastic bag around it or even bury it in a pile of the wet shavings.
When I'm prepping blanks to be roughed out I'll stack a few of them up and then put a garbage bag over the stack and this also works rather well.

Josh
 
I will often mist a turning with water while turning the inside. If I stop the lathe and leave for any reason even just to go to the bathroom I put a plastic bag on it.
 
I'm with everyone else... plastic bag if you need to leave for a while or use a spray bottle to mist if the weather is hot and the wood is drying out too fast as you turn it. I bought some spray bottles at Hobby Lobby that are great for this. They are used when ironing or to mist plants. Putting Anchorseal on a bowl in the middle of roughing it out would be a terrible mess because it would sling all over everything.
 
I do the misting + plastic bag thing if I leave it overnight or for lunch. I have to agree with Gerald that cherry gets much worse of a rap than it deserves, apple also -- I haven't had near the problem that people caution me about. I've never worked with green figured wood before, not sure what to expect. I guess in some ways, it would be more stable than "normal" wood, what with there not being a particular direction much of it grew in. This wood is different because I paid for it.😀 Have been cautious about bagging it, because the first piece I turned got that grey stuff in it.

This last piece has some interesting defects, which may or may not doom it. One of them in particular goes all the way through, which I did not discern when I first formed the bowl blank. The first pic was before shaping. The second shows it partially shaped externally. Finished the inside just before dinner.
Cherry Bwl on Lathe2.jpg
Cherry Bwl on Lathe.jpg
 
[Snip] Putting Anchorseal on a bowl in the middle of roughing it out would be a terrible mess because it would sling all over everything.
Well, I guess I'm living a charmed life, or I don't put enough Anchorseal on -- I did the end grain on a small bowl, let it sit for just a few minutes, and came away unscathed after roughing out the inside. I get the message, though -- (a) I'm being overly paranoid (as opposed to acceptably paranoid and (b) use plastic.😀
 
No piece of wood is worth risking a serious injury. That bottom picture is an injury waiting to happen. The direction of rotation has a sharp forward facing spear that looks too much like a piece that gave me a really bad injury. I was starting to hand sand when the sharp hook caught me in the soft web between my thumb and index finger ... ripped through like it wasn't even there. I've had some injuries where I was cut with a sharp tool and those don't really cause much pain, relatively speaking. Being ripped by a rough piece of wood was excruciatingly painful almost instantly.
 
When roughing bowls, some pieces of wood are more susceptible to instant checking than others, and you really have no clue which ones will, and which ones won't. There are two things that are elements that effect this kind of checking.......heat and exposure to the ambient environment.

The act of turning, itself is going to cause heat, but it can be minimized by the sharpness of the tools, and taking smaller cuts. The spinning motion of the wood on the lathe is, in itself, a cooling factor.....so, taking smaller cuts, and taking your time, contributes to reduce the amount of heat generated, and the time/ability of the cooling factors to work.

I have used anchorseal on the exterior of a bowl while roughing out the interior......and, I don't think this is excessive to think it's a little more able to prevent checking than a plastic bag. It only takes a matter of 20-30 minutes for the anchorseal to set-up, and can be turned on the lathe......without any mess. I usually don't do this, unless I see signs that checking is initiating. Most wet bowl blanks aren't as likely to check......but, there is that occasional example that will, and usually you can tell by the surface appearance........sometimes not.

As I see it, anchorseal is the better choice, because it seals directly to the surface, and seeps into any voids and existing cracks......while plastic bags, or wrap will necessarily have gaps and allow small air pockets between the wood and plastic. The advantage to plastic wrap, is it's instantaneous, while the anchorseal requires some set-up time.......

ko
 
No piece of wood is worth risking a serious injury. That bottom picture is an injury waiting to happen. The direction of rotation has a sharp forward facing spear that looks too much like a piece that gave me a really bad injury. I was starting to hand sand when the sharp hook caught me in the soft web between my thumb and index finger ... ripped through like it wasn't even there. I've had some injuries where I was cut with a sharp tool and those don't really cause much pain, relatively speaking. Being ripped by a rough piece of wood was excruciatingly painful almost instantly.

Was going to reply in general, but my suggestion also applies to Bill’s concern:

Wrap the outside with stretch-wrap plastic film — like that used to bundle products on pallets. It will slow/stop the water evaporation or slinging and it will secure the potentially unstable portions of the wood that may come loose during turning. 3 or 4 wraps should do it and make sure to wrap it so that the free tail end faces away from rotation; i.e., clockwise from the tailstock end in forward rotation. The only downside to this is that the plastic will need to overlap the rim a small bit so that it stays in place. This means that you’ll need to cut the rim to rough thickness before the wrap goes on. For a little extra film security, you can circle the bowl with tape at a couple locations.
 
I probably apply a much thicker coat of Anchorseal than Odie does. If you brush it on really thin and wait for it to sufficiently dry then that would work. Your location is also a factor. Here the humidity slows down evaporation considerably. I used to store most of my wood outside so I got into the habit of mopping a heavy coating of Anchorseal onto exposed end grain.
 
If you brush it on really thin and wait for it to sufficiently dry then that would work.

Waiting 30+ minutes for anchor seal to dry would not be time well spent for me.
I could rough another bowl in that time.
20 years ago Liam O'neil taught me to use the side ground gouge. Since then haven't needed 30 minutes to rough out a bowl less than 14" diameter. I would be spending more time waiting than turning.

Newer turners, will get faster with practice. Nothing beats a quality class or two for increasing your skill with the tools.
I vaguely remember needing 3 hours to turn a 6" bowl from a 12" bowl blank... I may have suppressed those memories...
 
Jamie,

Count me as +1 on the plastic bag and misting water. My first class ever was David Ellsworth just two years ago. For our blanks, we just went out in his yard, grabbed a piece of fresh cut timber, split it and prepped our blanks. When we broke for lunch, we put a trash bag tightly around our work piece. That's a practice that stays with me. If I want to stop for more than a lunch break then I spray - pretty heavily - and bag it for overnight.

If I leave it for a week down here in bayou country, it'll spalt.

Kidding.

Mostly.
 
No piece of wood is worth risking a serious injury. That bottom picture is an injury waiting to happen. The direction of rotation has a sharp forward facing spear that looks too much like a piece that gave me a really bad injury. I was starting to hand sand when the sharp hook caught me in the soft web between my thumb and index finger ... ripped through like it wasn't even there. I've had some injuries where I was cut with a sharp tool and those don't really cause much pain, relatively speaking. Being ripped by a rough piece of wood was excruciatingly painful almost instantly.
Bill, I agree with the first sentence. Actually, I agree with the 2nd and 3rd also, but assuming the bowl is not completely unsound after it dries, I will proceed with great caution -- and possibly under supervision. I have reverse on my lathe if needed, and I wouldn't necessarily use my bare hand to hold any sandpaper. I showed the rough-turned bowl to my (finally returned to home) mentor today, and he's excited to see what it does during drying and what we can do with it in the long run. He is super-safety-oriented and won't let me do anything that's dangerous.
 
That's good that you have someone who can help you avoid risky situations. I don't want to come off sounding like an alarmist, but I think that it is beneficial to share information about things we have learned through experience, even if we learned by first doing things the wrong way. Sometimes the lessons learned from our mistakes are the ones that we learn the best .... not that I think that is a good teaching model.
 
Jamie,
I had a poplar bowl once that had a similar inclusion. Unknown to me at the time, during turning the inclusion was soon full thickness and 1/4 of the edge of the 14" bowl came flying off at speed. Fortunately, it slammed into the sheetrock on the side of the lathe away from me, though it left a fair sized dent. I weighed the green wood chunk afterwards and it was well over 1 pound. The flying chunk is one of my better teaching tools at the high school shop, though since it has dried it is much less impressive. Now when I seen an inclusion, I remember that experience and am much more watchful as things unfold. And always wear protection.
 
Now when I seen an inclusion, I remember that experience and am much more watchful as things unfold. And always wear protection.
I was smart enough when I roughed that bowl out, seeing all those oddities on the bottom, that I was as protected as I could be. Having watched Reed's "Line of Fire" video, and the dent in his wall well photographed, I stood away from that line, safety glasses, shield and checking the wood very, very often. Who knows what that bowl will look like when it's dry.😛
 
Jamie time is the enemy for green turning to finish. If you can hollow and finish the entire piece in a couple of hours or less usually there is no problem. If it will take you more time than that your piece is subject to premature drying more on the outside as the piece spins because water is literally spun out of the wood cells. Wrapping plastic wrap around your piece and then securing it with a little masking tape especially on fruit woods should do the trick. If you have to leave your piece for an hour or more then wrap a plastic bag completely around it until you can start again.
 
Jamie time is the enemy for green turning to finish. If you can hollow and finish the entire piece in a couple of hours or less usually there is no problem. If it will take you more time than that your piece is subject to premature drying more on the outside as the piece spins because water is literally spun out of the wood cells. Wrapping plastic wrap around your piece and then securing it with a little masking tape especially on fruit woods should do the trick. If you have to leave your piece for an hour or more then wrap a plastic bag completely around it until you can start again.
I'm a ways away from a couple of hours, but getting there. Would be happy to just get the whole thing done in one "shop-day equivalent"), which is about 4 hours, but I keep getting started late and will stow the exterior-turned bowl overnight in wet shavings/bag. Back when my husband worked out of state, and I was on my own, I'd be out in the shop until midnight often, but now I come in for dinner and stay.😛 Really need to get the fruitwood and maple done in one session, because if it gets sealed or nested in shavings, I get the grey mold spots really fast (Puget Sound Syndrome). Thanks, Breck.
PS: That's not 4 straight hours of turning. Includes updating Pandora as I go -- music so important, sharpening, interruptions, etc.
 
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Jamie, I live on the Gulf of Mexico so our humidity is almost always 95 to 100% so I understand the mold problem. I had to quit using the wet shavings for that very reason. The plastic kitchen garbage bag seems to be the best for any lengthy inactivity for me anyway. Every turner has a different way to accomplish the same thing. I guess we just need to find what works best of us individually. Best of luck
 
Jamie, I live on the Gulf of Mexico so our humidity is almost always 95 to 100% so I understand the mold problem. I had to quit using the wet shavings for that very reason. The plastic kitchen garbage bag seems to be the best for any lengthy inactivity for me anyway. Every turner has a different way to accomplish the same thing. I guess we just need to find what works best of us individually. Best of luck
I'm going to try spritzing the next one with a 1% bleach spray -- hoping for no color change and no grey spots.
 
I'm going to try spritzing the next one with a 1% bleach spray -- hoping for no color change and no grey spots.
I wipe Clorox straight from the bottle on mold and have not seen any color change in the woods I use.

I use the 2 part Wood bleach to lighten wood it is totally different than clorine bleaches that don't lighten wood color.
 
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