Advice on new woodturning shop

[Donham]

I am a new woodturner , but a old machinist. I will be building a new 20ft by 15 ft dedicated woodturning shop with 10ft shed across back in next couple months, Woodturning only-- New Stubby 750 and Jet 1642- 2hp lathes, bandsaw and ect.
What I need advice on is : dust control systed, heating, cooling, lighting, ect. Not trying for cheapest way!
And advice greatly appreciated!
Don Hammond
West Central Al

 

[Peter Skellenger]

In floor heat might be overkill in Alabama but it is pretty nice once the slab is heated up. It does not require too much energy to keep it warm and the shavings, etc... might as well be used to heat. Additionally, I would consider in floor dust collection as well. I read about this in Fine Woodworking I think. People do it, I know that for sure but I don't remember the details. This keeps all the ductwork in the floor and reduces all the hoses everywhere. Pretty slick to keep this stuff out of the way.

 

[Richard Baker]

Shop Advice

Don,
Do wiring plan first. Ceiling outlets, if needed, wall outlets every 4'-6', located 48-5/8" + 1/16" below ceiling joists so no cuts required in top row of drywall. Ceiling 110V outlets for plug-in 4 ft. 2-tube fluorescents. I have 18 of the "cheap" ones in a 750 sq. ft. shop. Plug-in fixtures makes it easier than hard-wired to change tubes or fixtures when they crater. Others can suggest better (and more expensive) fixtures. Divide into 2 or 3 circuits if you will mostly work in only half the shop, or if you will run other equipment from the ceiling outlets.

Good insulation is money well spent if not in a uniformly balmy and comfortable climate. Has finally made it to 99 degrees here (cooler than usual), and the shop is a comfortable 74, at minimal operating cost compared to the house, due to an acceptable insulation job.

HVAC- Provide opening centered in one wall for small "window" AC/Heater unit. Extra money for "heater" unit, but worth it for winter turning. Back to wiring- this unit needs a dedicated circuit, maybe #10 wire and 30 amp breaker, but not necessarily that big. Depends on your unit.

Dust Collection- consider dedicated 220 circuit. Others will advise re. details.

Hope this is helpful. Recently built 4th shop, and it's still a mess. Can't find half my stuff.

 

[Jim Stoppleworth]

My 3 yr old 26x28 shop has 3 outlet boxes on each wall and two in the ceiling. The 110 outlets are on 3 circuits. I have 2 220 lines run from the 100 amp sub-panel for the bandsaw, dust collector, and lathe. I could have run 3 lines but all 3 are never on at the same time.

I have 9 8' 2 bulb flourescent fixtures on 2 circuits for ceiling light. Insulation (for Michigan winters) R38 ceiling and R19 walls.

I don't know your winter time temps in central Al but (I'm guessing here) a heat pump would work. Here I use a gas fired Hot Dawg brand hot air furnace.

My 2hp Oneida Dust collector is on a mobile stand and can be rolled to different machines. However it has been sitting in the same spot for 2 1/2 years and flex hose is run to the various machines. Someday when I get really ambitious I'll mount it in a permantent location and do perimeter piping.
I like the pulling power of the DC, especially when I'm sanding on the lathe.

Jim

 

[Ruth Niles]

Don,

I agree about the plug-in 4 ft. flourescents. I had my shop built (3 car-garage divided 1/2) and have 5 plug-in lights. I like them because:
1. you can raise or lower them over areas as needed.
2. you can move them anywhere within cords length if you decide to move a machine or bench.
3. you can turn off the ones you may not need if you have a lot of windows (I cannot live without windows everywhere).
4. they are easier to replace bulbs IF you have high ceilings (mine are 9 1/2 ft. and lights are 6 1/2 ft. high..... of course I'm only 5' 2"!)

I also agree that "good insulation is money well spent". I'm in PA and not that familiar with your winter conditions however, the insulation is excellent for keeping the shop cool in the hot months. If you have windows, put shades or blinds on them to keep the sun out in the summer. What's nice about them is after they get full of dust, they have a really nice patina making your shop look cozy. Well, it does in mine at least.

The drop-down retractable outlet thingy is wonderful. Just pull it down when you need a tool/machine you don't use often, like a router, elec. drill (when you go to use the cordless and find the battery dead), etc. Since most of my wall outlets are full or behind the machines plugged in, I find this little item priceless.

Have fun
Ruth Niles
www.torne-lignum.com

 

[Peter Skellenger]

I have a portable dust collector... the thing is loud as hell. I love my excellent hearing the way it is so I always wear earplugs when this thing is running which happens to be often! This is one of the major things I would like to change. The air compressor is also very loud when it kicks on to recharge. Since cost seems to be a non-issue for this project, go all out on the dust collection for sure. Others will have specific advice in this area but a seperate room for the collector and compressor (ideally connected to and not inside the shop) would be on my list! Top of the line air filtration is another, along with the lighting others have spoken of. I have recently talked (email) to a fellow woodturner who is facing giving up turning completely (and he turns professionally) due to lung problems cause by a number of factors, most noteably turning dust. For ultimate turning pleasure, I would think hearing, vision, and breathing should be at the top of the list.

 

[dkulze]

Congrats on the new shop, Don. Only a couple of suggestions to add to the great ones you already have.

If you do flourescent ceiling lights, don't forget the bulb covers. If bulbs are unshielded, there are great little clear plastic tubes you can fit over them. Flying chunks from lathe blowups will still break the bulbs but no shattered glass raining down.

For a wood shop, especially a turning one, increase your number of planned outlets by half, and alternate circuits with lighting on fully seperate. That way, when you trip, your lights stay on and you don't lose multiple machines.

Finally, if you can run ducts on the floor, you can sweep your shavings into the main duct. Kinda handy when generating the amount of wood bits you get with turning. Duct right by the lathe and easilly accessable works well. Also, put that collector outside your main shop area and insulate it with foam panels to kill the noise. And don't forget the air filtration system to complement it. The fine stuff that goes into the air is the stuff that will kill you.

Dietrich

 

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Don, you've received lots of good advice. I would add caution regarding "in floor" dust collection piping. Unless you have lots of hp and large diameter pipes, with green wood curls, you will most probably experience some pipe jams. Having access to the piping is important.

 

[GA Darling]

Don.
You have recieved some really good advice from the others. I don't know how I could add much more. Here is one thing to think about when planning your shop. Think about process flow. In other words you don't want to run from one end to the other to use a different machine. Try to line up your machines in the order they will be used. I hope that makes sense.

GA Darling

 

[Kefferpl]

shop plan

Donham
When I set up my shop 12x 25 wooden shed.
Frist thing I did was a graph paper floor plan of shop,
then made a carboard cut out to scale of everthing that would use floor space. Move tem all over try every thing every way when your happy. Plan the dust system the vendors will do it for you if you purchase a collector.
Now plan your lighting system and were to place the recp. 110v and 220 v I used 8 ft tubes ISO - and wired 4 fixtues On 2 switches. All 110 rec are 2 gang boxes and any two next to each other are on different breakers no more then 4 ft apart
My shop is to small now (norrow) but I can make do ok
My next shop will be larger. 24 by 24 at least - heat and ac
Paul

 

[Peter Skellenger]

I thought of one more thing I would like. Air hoses... more than one or 2. This would be pretty easy to do i think but would be better if it were designed into the building. Man, this sounds like a fun project. Looking forward to being able to do this someday! Anyway- I think standard conduit run about the ceiling with drop down quick connectors placed wherever you want a hose or air supply (finishing or painting hood/area). I get really tired of coiling up the hose all the time or tripping over it if i don't! I have a really long hose in order to be able to use it anywhere, which includes outdoors to pump up tires, "clean" my chainsaw, air filters, etc... nice to be able to have air anywhere and everywhere you want it. if you build the compressor into the outside of the building, you will need to route the air inside. Add that to the plans! 😉

 

[Richard Baker]

Jim,
Good advice on insulation. Seem to recall that it also got close to 100 in the summer in Saginaw. But that was half a lifetime ago. Maybe it's cooler now.

Ruth,
Yeah, forgot about the retractable cords. Very handy. Have one on the wall a few feet behind me when turning, w/ shelf for assorted power sanding stuff. Haven't decided where the other one goes, but probably on the ceiling above where one of the rolling tables ends up (the one with router table, mortisser, abrasive cutoff saw, & bench vise). Wow, you came all the way from far away PA to SWAT? Thought that was you. Guess I better try a couple stoppers.

Peter,
Great idea. Recently visited a shop w/ ceiling mounted air lines with a a "drop" over each machine with springy plastic coil air line. He used 1/2" copper pipe for air lines; not inexpensive but good looking and technically just dandy. Need to check w/ others about the springy plastic coil air line, as the one I tried years ago was rather fragile. Maybe they are better now.

More electrical- Decided to put the welder INSIDE the (air conditioned) shop this time, but right next to door to adjacent 2-car garage area so can weld anything that can be dragged to the door. Dedicated 220V, 50 amp circuit w/ #4 wire.

Don,
Are you going to pour a concrete (it ain't See-Ment, but cement is in it) foundation? We can probably give some advice there too.

 

[Donham]

Advice on new wood shop

Thanks everyone,
I surely do appreciate the great tips and advice I am receiving.
I can add and change any plans on shop for about a month.
Could put new shop on slab but my machine shop is on slab, I have been
walking on concrete for 34 years there. I want a conventional
well supported wood floor in this shop. My feet and legs think wood floor
this time!
Please keep the great advice and suggestions coming!!!!!
Donham

 

[Peter Skellenger]

Allow me to suggest a "cost is no object" wood floor consideration: Good ol Michigan Birdseye maple flooring
www.bellforestproducts.com

Family owned business "in my backyard" so to speak. They are great people with nice wood. They actually have this stuff on sale right now too! 😉

Skylights would be a nice addition too. Natural light is awesome when you can get it. INMHO.

Another thing: Windows that offer a breeze might be nice for you in AL. They are here in Mi! By offer a breeze I mean setting them up across from each other taking advantage of the prevailing wind direction in your area. Here, the winds generally blow in the North and South directions, occasionally west and rarely east. The shop I work in (it's my dad's shop really) has windows on only one side of the building with a couple sliding doors. Lots of screened windows are pretty much useless if there are none on the other side of the building! I find I never open the sliding doors to use the breeze because flies or other flying bugs land on my arms when turning.... drives me crazy! I would add screened windows on the North and the South side of the building if I were doing it right now.

I am going to have to visit this shop when it is done!

 

[Ruth Niles]

Jim,
Ruth,
Yeah, forgot about the retractable cords. Very handy. Have one on the wall a few feet behind me when turning, w/ shelf for assorted power sanding stuff. Haven't decided where the other one goes, but probably on the ceiling above where one of the rolling tables ends up (the one with router table, mortisser, abrasive cutoff saw, & bench vise). Wow, you came all the way from far away PA to SWAT? Thought that was you. Guess I better try a couple stoppers.
------------------------------

Yes, it's me and I did drive from PA to Temple for the SWAT show which was terrific and is now tied with my original favorite symposium. I'll be there again this year.

As to the retractable cords, that's what I have on the ceiling (only dumb thing is they put a 12" extension on it so I had to do some electrical work!) but I never thought about one for the wall with a shelf over it. Great idea!
Thanks.

Ruth
www.torne-lignum.com

 

[Peter Skellenger]

Oh yeah, I forgot to say that the ultimate shop would be equipped with an unlimited supply of The SS Niles stainless steel bottle stopper. The absolute best one on the market hands down.
--- from experience with no connections to the product except the piece of wood I get to turn for one!

 

[John Richey]

Cleat System and Cabinets with doors

None of my past shops had cabinets with doors and I always hated to clean up. I still hate to clean up, but it goes a lot quicker. I found some damaged cabinets at Home depot and got them cheaper than I could have made them. It took about half an hour to fix them up and hang them with cleats. They really make a difference.

I also lined the walls with cleats at the appropriate height, 3/4" x 4" X whatever length you need, plywood ripped at a 45° and mounted them with the opposing angle on the cabinets. I also mounted a 3/4" spacer at the bottom of the cabinets. If I need to move a cabinet all I do is lift it up and move it to the new location.

Have fun.

John

 

[Kenneth]

Tool Boards & Tool Storage

I have had three shops in my lifetime. I am in the process of building the third one.

Non-woodworking tools. Stored in good, old-fashioned mechanic's rolling cab and chest. Proto 42" wide by almost 6' high. Lots of drawers for wrenches, sockets, punches etc.

Festool etc. Stored in Festool Systainers on three rolling systainer racks. I can bring the tools to me. I have systainers for abrasives as well.

Big Parts. Stored either in the old-fashioned stationery drawers (30 to a unit) or in plastic containers, neatly labeled stored on Metro Shelving.

Smaller Parts. Stored in Tilt-a-Bin units bolted to a wall. About 50" wide by over 6' high.

Screws, nuts, bolts, washers. Stored in Klein parts boxes, 4 to a pullout rack. The racks are on Metro shelves that roll.

(Although I have no shortage of floor space, everything rolls. Gives me greater versatility when I change my mind)

Tool Boards. I have mounted all of my woodworking and turning tools on plywood tool boards fastened to the walls. I must have 10 sheets of ply on the walls. I used poplar ply from HD-about the same price as AC. Finished the ply with two coats of a polyester stain. Looks terrific. So good that my wife did all the finishing. Tools are held in place on custom racks, brackets or simple nails. No magnets. The tool boards are in sections so that if one gets chewed up it can be easily replaced. I installed 2-2x4s horizonally across each wall section. The bottom 2x4 has a 1x2 firing strip to give the tool board a ledge to rest on. The tool boards are roughly 2'x4'. Screwed into the 2x4s for easy replacement. Heavy stuff goes on the bottom. Looks nice, safe and allows me to find most anything in a jiffy. Special racks for battery drills and the like with chargers.

Shelving. I am a die hard Metro shelving user. I have shelving that goes back nearly 30 years. I have used and reused them for storage of all kinds. Now the racks are on 4" casters. Everything rolls. I have shelves for green wood storage. Shelving can sit next to one another and moved for access.

Just some thoughts.

 

[Richard Baker]

Kenneth,
Welcome to the forum. Sounds as though you have a great shop, and some of us would sure like to see some pictures of it.

Meanwhile, gotcha beat on shelf boards, as I still have a few mahogany shelf boards that my father bought more than 50 years ago. They are being gradually recycled into segmented turning projects and replaced with plywood.

John,
Cabinets are great if you can remember where you put everything, or have them labeled. Tend to favor open shelves so can see where I put stuff. No problem if you have good DC. Or wear a space suit and blow the dust off w/ compressed air a couple times a year.

Ruth,
Wishing safe trip again this year. Will probably miss this time, but will say "Hi" in '09.

 

[Peter Skellenger]

Magnets for tools.... I have magnetic tool "bars" that hold the tools on the wall. I would not recommend these to anyone really. I saw David Marks using them on his TV show, "Wood Works" and they looked handy. They magnetize the tools! This is no problem for most of the tools but small detail gouges and the like are so light that they stick to the tool rest making them feel "sticky" when sliding across the rest.

 

[Mr. Don]

Dream shop

Hey Pete....ya might want to keep that dust conduit system overhead with drops and gates, in the event of a clog. As for the magnetic tool bar...I got some....all you need is a cheap "demagnetizer" (only a buck or so at Woodcraft). Very good to have!!! PEE ESS....as for the dust system...I use that 4" aluminum stretchable dryer vent stuff, and connect it with small metal coffee cans with bottoms cut out and hose clamps. That way, you can run up to 8' lengths, and do not need to worry about static grounding. I keep my air compressor outside, and run 1/2" PVC overhead with coiled, quick couple drops to each machine. Also got my dust sucker outside, and blow the stuff into a barrel for mulch. Have fun...good luck. 😀 😀

 

[Peter Skellenger]

Mr. Don- yeah, I am not + about the in-floor dust control but I did read in Fine Woodworking that people do it... probably not woodturners with green shavings and the like but I find the planer clogs the dust collector as often or more often than the lathe.... but I do not use the collector so close to suck up shaving when turning green anyway. I am pretty sure they just design "doors" into the system in the case of a clog, or better yet, just install some screen into the collector hoses either right at the floor where the hose goes into the floor or at the end of the hose that connects to the machine. I am pretty sure they all have a screen of some sort somewhere to stop "objects" from going into the dust collector. It sounded pretty cool to me, but I would sure look into it more before I did it myself.
Stereo and speakers, all enclosed in some sort of dust proof enclosure such as plexi-glass or something. I would add that to the list too. 😉

 

[Marc Himes]

Having your own shop dedicated to turning is great. A good friend in Wisconsin has a two room shop with one room for wood storage, wood drying and finishing, while the other room has all the dusty machines in it. I don't know if you have the room for this, but a clean, dust-free area for applying finishes can be a great feature for a turners shop. That way you can limit the dust and concentrate the dust making along with the air filtration and dust collection in a smaller space. I fully support everyone else who stressed air quality.
Good luck. This sounds like a great project.