Advanced Burl Project

[Trever Hansen]

So i have this burl log, its hollow and is surrounded entirely of burl. Imo is one of those rare finds, maybe not, but i feel like it can become something beautiful. My very first thought was a lamp, being hollow already, or a large vase (would have to make a base), or an art piece.

Im hoping to get some thought on options for something like this. That and how am i going to secure that on my lathe? Any help would be appreciated. i'm an intermediate turner, and i feel like this is in the advanced turning range. Might be i wait a year or so to hone my skills more, idk.

-Trever

 

[Richard Coers]

My first thought is termites, carpenter ants, and powder post beetles. Second thought is punky wood and the need for stabilizing. Good luck!

 

[Trever Hansen]

My first thought is termites, carpenter ants, and powder post beetles. Second thought is punky wood and the need for stabilizing. Good luck!

bummer

 

[Dave Landers]

This is the sort of thing that ends up sitting in my shop for several years while I wait for it to tell me what it wants to become....

And don't forget the option of cutting it up and making a whole lot of small pieces. It's tempting to make one big thing, but then you end up with one thing (or zero things, if things don't go well).

 

[Tom De Winter]

So if it (or another piece) has bugs in it how do you deal with it so they don't invade your shop?

 

[Gary Beasley]

Heavy duty garbage bag and insect spray. Spray, bag, spray again, tied it up and put it out in the sunshine to get it hot.

 

[Richard Coers]

The only way to eliminate powder post beetles is heat. The entire block of wood has to be brought up to 135 degrees F internal temperature. That kills the eggs in the wood as well as anything crawling. Insecticide will not kill the eggs in the wood. It really shouldn't be in your shop right now. I would put it in a clear plastic bag and see if any fresh, fine sawdust starts forming around it.

 

[Dean Center]

Trever lives in Utah, so perhaps he doesn't have powder post beetles or termites. In our local box elder burl trees, 350 miles north of Trever, when the wood gets to that size and status we typically have ants, but there are no termites or powder post beetles around here. Anybody know?

 

[Trever Hansen]

So i have had it in a garbage bag that was heavily sprayed before this post. Was cleaning shop and being a new forum member thought where better to ask for advice.

As for bugs/ant, etc, i have yet to see anything after i first cleaned it up few months ago. i'm thinking i'm going to remove the bark (as much as i can at least) and check it out from that point.

i didn't know that about tempurature of wood to kill all bugs? that's pretty cool, and being in desert Utah should be pretty easy to get to that point.

ill repost after my more thourough debark/clean

 

[hockenbery]

Im hoping to get some thought on options for something like this

How split the wood is or isn’t will allow or eliminate some forms.

Trever, when I get a hollow log I always consider two turning that feature the hollow.

a face grain hollow form where the hollow forms windows on each side. - need solid wood for the mounting.
A sphere with the hollow.

these work better where there is more wall thickness like you have on one end of the form.
Both depend on h

 

[Trever Hansen]

How split the wood is or isn’t will allow or eliminate some forms.

Trever, when I get a hollow log I always consider two turning that feature the hollow.

a face grain hollow form where the hollow forms windows on each side. - need solid wood for the mounting.
A sphere with the hollow.

these work better where there is more wall thickness like you have on one end of the form.
Both depend on h

that makes sense and it's kind what i was wondering, and where i get hung up. I am thinking that there is def not enough inside 70% of it, to be supported properly. The wood it self is sound, not split, and has not changed/degraded since the time i have had it, but that still leaves the lack of an issue.

i think for me what it comes down to, and reason for this post, is probably something we all can relate to, in having some unique/special piece of wood and wanting to bring it to its best light. I don't know why i can't stop thinking there is something beautiful inside just waiting for me to reveal it. Idk. :/

I appreciate all the feedback and for those that took the time to help out this noob .

cheers

 

[John Tisdale]

From what I can tell the log looks fairly round. As per previous posts, I do lots of big burls. Here is an approach:

1. Do whatever is necessary to square one end to the axis - the end with the small hole. A good way to do that would be to route a round hole, glue in a plug, and use a spur drive - on the other end, cut a round 18mm Baltic birch - stick it on with double side foam tape from 3M and then press it home with the tailstock. The objective is to get "between centers" which will allow you to true the end.
2. Glue a 18mm Baltic birch to the squared end with West G-Flex 655 - be liberal with the epoxy. You can even glue some glue-blocks to the inside - they will cut off later.
3. Attach a 6" faceplate - assuming a 12-hole faceplate, just use 4-holes (easier to move a bit if you need to adjust for optimum axis)
4. Hopefully you have a "big boy" lathe - mount it on the spindle - keep the round Baltic birch on the open end with the foam tape - staying between centers is a good thing.
5. you can still adjust the position of the faceplate and tailstock end to "optimize"
6. Start rounding/cutting to final profile - while the log will dictate, you should be able to achieve a pleasing form.
7. Keep your gouge super sharp and take small cuts at slow speed - on Planet Mesquite I never got above 150-rpm. You'll discover that "ker chunkin" is a whole nuther skill.
8. When the profile is done, next comes hollowing. I won't go into detail but I will argue that my approach with a hand-held Rolly Munro and an INTERNAL tool-rest is the best approach. Let me know when you get to that point and I'll send a spare tool-rest.
9. If you get cold feet at the thought of cantilevering off the face-plate, no problem. Good time to use a steady-rest. If you don't have a good runway due to openings, then do a coopered ring and glue it on - it will cut off later.

You have the makings for a masterpiece. You say your an "intermediate" - nonsense. It's all about problem-solving and you'll be ground-zero for this particular set of problems.
Once you get the turning done, the next issue is finishing. If this piece comes out like I think it can, you don't want to do an oil or MinWax finish - as with the tool-rest, we can discuss when you're ready.

If guilty of pontificating, my apologies - it's easy to get excited over a spectacular opportunity.

 

[Trever Hansen]

Thank you so much @John Tisdale ! your reply has not only addressed my biggest concern, mounting, but have explained it in a way that i feel encouraged! i am grateful for you taking the time to share some methods that's you have learned, helping me bridge my "intermediate" perspective.
It really has shifted my view from wishful thinking, to excited and focused! And honestly what can be better than that!?

TBC!

 

[John Tisdale]

As I look at my response I would change #3 - always start between centers with a spur-drive and live-center.
RATIONALES:

• No way, in this lifetime, can you do a "square" chainsaw cut
• glue on the piece of Baltic Birch or preferably a heavy cut-off plank of solid "something" laying around the shop - again, G-Flex is great stuff for that
• I have made several templates for determining where to start. Take the lid from a 5-gal plastic paint bucket and drill a hole in the middle (there is a dimple molded in) - then cut around one of the concentric rings. From looking at your pics, I would guess a 8" dia template would work.
• Lay the template on the new base and eyeball the optimum spot to drill a small hole for the spur-drive.
• Same thing on the other end - on the plank or Baltic birch affixed to the more open end
• You might want to drill a shallow 1/8" deep hole for the spur drive - I use a 1-1/2" jumbo drive - seating it in a 1-1/2" shallow Forstner hole prevents what could be a really big problem

ADVANTAGE: As you start rounding, no doubt you'll need to adjust the axis - getting it right the first time just doesn't happen. I'm constantly moving both ends as needed to optimize the particular log to yield the optimum design. And you might as well get accustomed to slow turning, super sharp gouges and light cuts. Just remember, moving the axis 1/2" reduces the piece 1". But overcutting one side and undercutting the opposing side is a problem too. The whole process is give-n-take

Happy to talk over the phone - when you get ready to pull the trigger and want to talk, just let me know.

 

[Trever Hansen]

Happy to talk over the phone - when you get ready to pull the trigger and want to talk, just let me know

That would be really awesome! ill PM you my contact details, and i am looking forward to chatting with you The step by step and encouraging words makes me excited to turn this, previously unsure possibility, into the piece i hear from within!

I said it in my last post, but it is worth repeating, my appreciation of the time and effort you put into helping a fellow turner out. It means the world!

A big thanks to everyone that has taken the time to reply to my post. I hope i don't sound too sappy but, It says so much about this community and I hope i can pay it forward as soon as possible.