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A Toothpick Holder Video Tokyo AAW Chapter Meeting

Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
46
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0
Location
Tokyo Japan
Website
www.ablett.jp
At the last FEWS (an AAW Chapter) meeting we had, a buddy of mine, Sugita San, came by to watch, he brought his video camera with him and took some video.

He is a graphic designer by trade, so I would expect his videos to better than mine, but man are they EVER better than mine 😱

I put it up >> HERE << you can go take a look see 🙂

He had never seen anyone turn before, and he knows next to nothing about turning, so in his video, he offers no commentary, or such, and he may have edited out some critical parts, but you still get to see me turn, in all my glory 🙄 on of the toothpick holders 😀

Cheers!
 
That was excellent !

Very nice job on the video by Sugita San. Very nice job on the turning by you as well Stu. I especially liked the graphics that showed which part of the project was coming up next. It actually made it seem that naration was not needed.

Well done ! And your videos are not bad either by the way. I've enjoyed many of them very much.
 
Toothpick Holder Video

Stu,
Thanks for your posting. I too, have enjoyed your videos, and have used your video on the bedan to sharpen my skills (all puns intended) to the point where I could demo to my fellow club members. This video on the toothpick holder was very entertaining. I agree with Don that the animated parts drawings showing what was coming next was very good. 😀
 
Toothpick Holder

Thanks Stu...Enjoyed the video very much....just wish I knew Japanese!!:cool2:
 
Toothpick Holder Video

Stu, Sugita San did a very nice video of the toothpick holder. Maybe we should import him for setting up videos over here at AAW during symposiums. Thanks for posting this. Enjoyed watching it. 🙂

Bill
 
stu, your toothpick holders are the greatese. coulu you provide dimensions for the working parts? bob davis, kansas

Thanks Bob

The main blank is 14cm long, by about 6cm x 6cm

The toothpicks are 6.5cm long, so I make the distance between the underside of the lid the the inside of the basket 7cm.

The main hole in the body is 1 1/2" and the hole to make the basket is 1 1/4"

I hope that helps!
 
Wow, this was a perfect video, it was clear, a quick and easy to watch, I love it. The holder design is great, too. This is the way all simple project videos should be made, I usually get bored with all the talking and don't watch them to the end. Putting the next step picture ahead of the process was a terrific idea.

Robert, the dimensions are fairly obvious in relation to Stuart's hand and his finger indications. Also I would imagine you could make it any size as long as the inside slides smoothly up and down and the lid fits.

Ruth
 
I'll echo what Ruth said and add, I wish some of the Pro videos I've paid to see were as concise and easy to follow as this one.
 
Wow, this was a perfect video, it was clear, a quick and easy to watch, I love it. The holder design is great, too. This is the way all simple project videos should be made, I usually get bored with all the talking and don't watch them to the end. Putting the next step picture ahead of the process was a terrific idea.

Robert, the dimensions are fairly obvious in relation to Stuart's hand and his finger indications. Also I would imagine you could make it any size as long as the inside slides smoothly up and down and the lid fits.

Ruth

ruth, what size are the dimensions of his hands.by the way, ihave made similar holders,just wanted to compare .bob
 
Stu - would you explain the coloring process you used for the finial. It looked like you applied some sort of sealer, then used a black dye or ink to color the finial black. What is the sealer and what is the black color. Does the final coat dry with a shiny finish? Can it be buffed? Since ebony is expensive and clear black epony difficult to find, I am very interested in your technique to dye a light wood to make it look like ebony. I have tried the iron filings in vinegar routine with very poor results.

Thanks . Jan Rehler, Corpus Christi, Texas
 
Bob, my hands are normal size, I use medium sized gloves 😀

If you look in post #11 of this thread, I give the sizes.

Jan, you are correct, I use a sanding sealer.

  1. Sand to #320, apply sanding sealer, it is "Lacquer Sanding Sealer" a Japanese brand, but the ones most use on the lathe are the same thing.
  2. Sand #400. You really have to make sure you get every bump and wiggle out at this point.
  3. I keep hitting the piece with sanding sealer and the #400 paper until I'm happy that the surface is flat, the pores of the wood are filled in etc.
  4. after one more sanding, Color the piece.
It is really important that the last time you sand you get a nice even sanding job, with no "shiny" spots, as the ink will NOT stick to the shiny spots.

In the video, I used these pigment paint markers they sell over here, they are NOT alcohol based, so they take some time to dry, they come in a variety of colors. I also use the Japanese "Fude (Foo-day) pens, these are like mini paint brushes, the "Ink" is "Tsumi" (Sue-Me) which is ground up charcoal and water. The Fude pen really works well, but it can take 20 to 30 minutes to dry 😱

I lightly sand using the synthetic steel wool stuff, #1200 or so, and I may apply the ink twice. When I have a nice even color on the piece, I then use the hard turners wax and a buffer to make it nice and shiny. One last note, when you finish, make sure that before you part off the finial, that you just touch the tenon that will be glued to the wood, if the tenon has wax on it, the glue will NOT stick it in place.

Hope this helps!

Cheers!🙂
 
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