A Mahoney’s walnut oil question

[Alan Weinberg]

I usually use many coats of polymerized tung oil as a finish but I see that a lot use Mahoney’s walnut oil. Is it one coat only or many? Sand between? Anybody use tung oil and then switch to Mahoney’s on the same piece? Tell me more. I just bought a bottle . . .

 

[Curt Fuller]

I consider Mahoney's walnut oil as more of a utility finish for bowls, cutting boards, things like that. It's really a nice product for a salad bowl. You can use as many coats as you want but it doesn't really build a hard finish. It's easy to re-apply over time when a salad bowl or cutting board need a refresh. I know there are others that use it differently and hopefully they'll reply.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

I use it as Curt says above. If I want a bit more shine, but still for a utility bowl, he also has a mix of walnut oil, beeswax and carnauba called Mahoney’s Oil Wax Finish. In my experience, customers and gift recipients are drawn to a slight gloss, even on utility bowls. Though unless refreshed, it will certainly fade.

 

[Kirk Amidon]

Generally use a single coat, but ultimately the wood tells me if a second coat is needed. As pointed out above, very easy to recoat and I also prefer this for bowls which will be used for food as the walnut oil is not a film finish.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Not walnut oil, but if you haven't already, check out the Tried and True finishes. Particularly the Original and Danish Oil. I use these on 80% of what I do. The other 20% I use shellac, Myland's, etc. T&T uses only polymerized linseed oil in those products. No varnishes, and no dryers. I have walnut oil, I just don't use it often.

 

[Dave Landers]

Mike says: "Apply one heavy coat and let sit for an hour and then wipe away any excess. Your item is now ready to go. If the item begins to look dry over time reapply another coat."

That works for me (except I don't often wait an hour - depends on how the wood is taking the oil). I often buff the outside of a bowl (after the oil has cured for several days) for a smoother feel.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Not walnut oil, but if you haven't already, check out the Tried and True finishes. Particularly the Original and Danish Oil. I use these on 80% of what I do. The other 20% I use shellac, Myland's, etc. T&T uses only polymerized linseed oil in those products. No varnishes, and no dryers. I have walnut oil, I just don't use it often.

Yep, Tried & True for me, too. I also use their Varnish Oil (they add some pine resin to serve as the surface film, if I recall) if I want something with a bit of surface sheen- no "poly" build from this product. I'll sometimes use it as a top coat over the TT Danish as well, since the Danish does not contain the wax of the Original.

I've never used Mahoney's, but if you need one-and-done for utility pieces, it should be just fine.

 

[robo hippy]

I use the Doctor's Woodshop oil, in part because he is from Oregon. I slop it on first coat, let sit over night, apply another coat, kind of slop it on, then wipe it off. I did pretty much the same thing with Mike Mahoney's oil. For end grain cutting boards, more so than flat grain cutting boards, final coat goes on with a heat gun for better and deeper penetration. I don't buff my bowls out at all since that shine is gone the first time the bowl or plate is used.

robo hippy

 

[Scott Hadley]

I just watched a YouTube video about OB Shine Juice from Q Branch Woodworks. The guest, Chris Sisson, mentioned he used "roasted walnut oil" from the grocery store. He said it is a lot cheaper and works just as well. I'm giving it a try next time I go grocery shopping. Additionally, my wife is excited that I might go grocery shopping.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I do the same as @robo hippy, get some mahoney’s on, let sit overnight, put some more on if needed, let sit another day. I check the piece every few hours if I can and smear the oil around. It’s thick and takes time to absorb. After the oil has soaked in for 2-3 days, I put the piece outside if its summer or in my “hotbox” if cool/cold and give it 2-3 days to cure, smearing around any bleed out.

I found that if I didnt give the oil time to soak in, the piece would start looking dry within a few weeks.

 

[Tom McDonnell]

I use walnut oil on 90% of the things I make. Basically anything that might hold food. On bowls that have been cured for long periods I occasionally wet sand 600 grit with another coat of oil to freshen them up for sales. I also use Mahoneys oil and wax on a lot of bowls but I'm still on the fence on whether it's worth it.
A big consideration if, like me someone might sell salad bowls at craft and street fair prices, walnut oil finish is mainly one and done. Easy to use in a dusty shop.

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

I usually use many coats of polymerized tung oil as a finish but I see that a lot use Mahoney’s walnut oil. Is it one coat only or many? Sand between? Anybody use tung oil and then switch to Mahoney’s on the same piece? Tell me more. I just bought a bottle . . .

I use walnut oil for objects that will be exposed to water, e.g., salad bowls, cutting boards, etc. The finish will deteriorate with time but is easily renewed by wiping on more oil on the dry surface and allowed to cure. This oil will not cure in any reasonable time unless exposed to light.
I ran an experiment a few years ago with several brands of walnut oil to verify this. This experiment used three brands of supermarket oil plus the Mahoney's oil. The experiment consisted of parts. In the first part, strips of paper towel with each of the oils and hung in a dark closet. Paper strips were used because curing will be evident by the strip becoming crisp. Even after a few weeks, the oil was not cured. I repeated the experiment, but hanging the strips in a sunny location. In this case all strips were crisp in a couple of days.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I ran an experiment a few years ago with several brands of walnut oil to verify this. This experiment used three brands of supermarket oil plus the Mahoney's oil. The experiment consisted of parts. In the first part, strips of paper towel with each of the oils and hung in a dark closet. Paper strips were used because curing will be evident by the strip becoming crisp. Even after a few weeks, the oil was not cured. I repeated the experiment, but hanging the strips in a sunny location. In this case all strips were crisp in a couple of days.

Did you happen to account for temperature, though? Temp in a dark closet might stay at 70 degrees for 36 hours, but temp in a sunlit room might swing from 70 to 90 back and forth? My experience with curing oils is that temperature is a bigger factor than sunlight.... Just my opinion though...

 

[Dean Center]

I find if I apply repeated heavy coats of walnut oil or tung oil, the oil seeps back out over the following days or weeks. One good coat, applying more until it stops soaking in, let sit 5 minutes, wipe off the excess, wipe off more in a half hour or so, and done. Unless you want to build up to a polishable/glossy surface, two thin coats of tung oil applied and 5 minutes later wiped off, a half day apart, seem to give a good result. If you do choose to apply more, the drying/curing time goes up, a lot-from days to weeks.