3520C on\off switch problem, again

[Jeff Struewing]

Within 6 months of purchase in 2018, the green\red on\off switch went bad - red always turns machine off, but green button wouldn't work, intermittently at first but progressively worse until the lathe was unusable. Powermatic sent a replacement that I installed and it worked fine for a month or two but then failed in the same way. The next replacement they sent was clearly a different brand and it worked for over 3 years. But in the last few months, it too is going bad. Throughout all this, opening up the switch box and using compressed air to clean out any dust and debris, tightening screws (which were never noticeably loose), etc. doesn't fix it.

Currently, I can still usually get it to go on by letting the magnet "snap" the unit back up against the lathe a time or two and pressing green button.
What is new this time is that the reverse button has also started to fail - it will stop working for a week or two then come back to life, but it hasn't worked now for over a month.

I'm planning to order another replacement on/off switch, but the fact that my reverse button doesn't work makes me wonder if there is something else going on?
Anyone else experiencing problems with the 3520C switches? A neighbor of mine has had similar issues but we haven't heard much of anything else about it on forums and the like.

 

[Daniel Henry]

Within 6 months of purchase in 2018, the green\red on\off switch went bad - red always turns machine off, but green button wouldn't work, intermittently at first but progressively worse until the lathe was unusable. Powermatic sent a replacement that I installed and it worked fine for a month or two but then failed in the same way. The next replacement they sent was clearly a different brand and it worked for over 3 years. But in the last few months, it too is going bad. Throughout all this, opening up the switch box and using compressed air to clean out any dust and debris, tightening screws (which were never noticeably loose), etc. doesn't fix it.

Currently, I can still usually get it to go on by letting the magnet "snap" the unit back up against the lathe a time or two and pressing green button.
What is new this time is that the reverse button has also started to fail - it will stop working for a week or two then come back to life, but it hasn't worked now for over a month.

I'm planning to order another replacement on/off switch, but the fact that my reverse button doesn't work makes me wonder if there is something else going on?
Anyone else experiencing problems with the 3520C switches? A neighbor of mine has had similar issues but we haven't heard much of anything else about it on forums and the like.

My C model is about 2 and 1/2 years old. The off/on push buttons have not been a problem. However, the forward/reverse is a slide switch and on occasion has failed to function in the reverse mode. A gentle tap and some compressed air has fixed the problem.

 

[Richard Adams]

I have the original version of the Powermatic 3520 and have never had a problem with the switches. However, my Vicmarc VL300 "on" switch frequently malfunctions. I have replaced it, but it quite inconvenient to get at.

 

[Larry Komroff]

You can replace just the contact block which will separate from the switch (top part). I would separate the 2 pieces and search for "reny contact block replacemennt" and try a name brand that will mate. Ebay has a few sellers of the contact block. It is normally closed contact

 

[Jeff Struewing]

You can replace just the contact block which will separate from the switch (top part). I would separate the 2 pieces and search for "reny contact block replacemennt" and try a name brand that will mate. Ebay has a few sellers of the contact block. It is normally closed contact

Thanks Larry, that is the way I'm leaning; just a little concerned that the reverse switch doesn't work either

 

[Karl Best]

The reverse switch on my three year old 3520C has been wonky for quite a while. It'll work for a few weeks, then not at all. I don't use it often, though, so I've not yet tried taking it apart.

 

[Aaron Harris]

My C model is a little over a year old. I got it new during Woodcraft's Black Friday sale in '22. I have been thrilled by everything about it but the switch (though I do love and use the magnetic remote!). My green on switch will occasionally quit working, and then start again after a good blow-out. If I ever lose the reverse, that is going to be a problem, as I switch directions often when sanding. When I was really having problems with it, tech support at JPW Industries sent me this:

The remote is not a dust free seal box. It does get dust inside but can generally be fixed.

1. Unplug the machine
2. Turn the on/off switch "firmly" back and forth on and off about 20 times

If that does not work, you can remove the back 6 screws of the remote.

This on-off reset procedure did work for me, and I try to blow it out after turning dusty, dry woods. As with the Lagunas, the stupid cheap switches are the problem.

 

[Jeff Struewing]

My C model is a little over a year old. I got it new during Woodcraft's Black Friday sale in '22. I have been thrilled by everything about it but the switch (though I do love and use the magnetic remote!). My green on switch will occasionally quit working, and then start again after a good blow-out. If I ever lose the reverse, that is going to be a problem, as I switch directions often when sanding. When I was really having problems with it, tech support at JPW Industries sent me this:

The remote is not a dust free seal box. It does get dust inside but can generally be fixed.

1. Unplug the machine
2. Turn the on/off switch "firmly" back and forth on and off about 20 times

If that does not work, you can remove the back 6 screws of the remote.

This on-off reset procedure did work for me, and I try to blow it out after turning dusty, dry woods. As with the Lagunas, the stupid cheap switches are the problem.

Thanks, Aaron, I'll give that a try.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

After replacing my 3520C on/off switch once about two years ago (machine is 3 1/2 years old, I’ve kept my remote control box in a thin gallon size plastic bag with a twist tie around the cord. Bag is loose enough that I have no difficulty turning the speed knob through it. Over these two years I’ve had no further problems with it. Not ideal, but it beats changing out switches.

 

[Jeff Struewing]

After replacing my 3520C on/off switch once about two years ago (machine is 3 1/2 years old, I’ve kept my remote control box in a thin gallon size plastic bag with a twist tie around the cord. Bag is loose enough that I have no difficulty turning the speed knob through it. Over these two years I’ve had no further problems with it. Not ideal, but it beats changing out switches.

Low tech but effective, I like it!

 

[Gary Morgan]

The reverse function stopped working. The tech advised blowing it out and dropping a plastic sandwich bag over it; this has worked for about four years now. It’s a little clumsy to use bit I’m used to it now.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, to me, I think the suppliers of the on/off switches and the variable speed knobs consider them to not be worth the effort of making them so they will last forever. No idea what the price would end up being if they made them that way.... I did have to replace the on/off button on my AB. It didn't wear out, but after thousands of bowls, the walnut oil seeped all the way inside and the button would not go in and out any more. Maybe it was just the off button.... They don't make them so I can't break them......

robo hippy

 

[Dean Center]

As many of you, I've discovered that the components, even the wear sensitive components, of shop tools are as cheap as possible. Thankfully, some of the sellers spec readily available components, which can be replaced cheaply. And often.

 

[Darryl Fective]

A standard light switch is a very cheap and permanent fix. It's only a low signal voltage thru the control wiring and a household switch is plenty capable, while more dustproof and durable.