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Spalted Pecan Covered Calabash
Osage Orange hollow form
Walnut #476 Hollow Form Vase
Walnut #475 Hollow Form Vase
Spalted Pecan Covered Calabash
2236 Mexico Bocote.
2236 Mexico Bocote
Salt bowl for table
Michael Anderson

Spalted Pecan Covered Calabash

Fairly heavily spalted Pecan covered calabash. I’ve made several of these now, and this is my favorite (in the context of form). Not too big, not too small, 5” x 5”. Exterior finished with lacquer, interior unfinished.
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Reactions: Kent Reisdorph, Ric Williams, Nino G. Cocchiarella and 25 others
Michael Anderson
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Dean Center
Very very nice, Michael. It's not easy to get just the right profile, but you nailed it. Maybe Emiliano will chime in, but I believe that would be a covered pua'hala.
 
Michael Anderson
Thanks Gabriel and Dean! Dean, I would probably say that it’s a bit more in the ku‘oho category. Without the cover, it’s just a tad shorter than it is wide. My understanding is that a pua’hala is taller than it is wide.
 
Nino G. Cocchiarella
Michael, very nice! I love spalted wood.

I have a question. I’m guessing you turned this green or am I wrong? I’ve wondered about turning boxes with lids using green wood. Wouldn’t the distortions in drying cause the lid to not fit as good?
 
Michael Anderson
Nino G. Cocchiarella said:
Michael, very nice! I love spalted wood.

I have a question. I’m guessing you turned this green or am I wrong? I’ve wondered about turning boxes with lids using green wood. Wouldn’t the distortions in drying cause the lid to not fit as good?
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Thanks Tom and Nino. Nino, to answer your question, I twice turned this one. But, I have also green turned some similar pieces successfully. The best thing you can do to mitigate the distortion due to drying is to turned your lid/body from the same blank, and turned them in spindle orientation. Ideally the pith would be in the middle so that all radial shrinkage happens symmetrically, but you can also get away with not including the pith as long as the grain isn't too wild. Even if some distortion occurs, which it likely will, the body and lid should move similarly. Side/facegrain boxes "should" be twice-turned. I've never had great success with green-turning sidegrain lidded pieces (unless the lid is fittted to be very loose. Just my experience.
 
Nino G. Cocchiarella
Michael Anderson said:
Thanks Tom and Nino. Nino, to answer your question, I twice turned this one. But, I have also green turned some similar pieces successfully. The best thing you can do to mitigate the distortion due to drying is to turned your lid/body from the same blank, and turned them in spindle orientation. Ideally the pith would be in the middle so that all radial shrinkage happens symmetrically, but you can also get away with not including the pith as long as the grain isn't too wild. Even if some distortion occurs, which it likely will, the body and lid should move similarly. Side/facegrain boxes "should" be twice-turned. I've never had great success with green-turning sidegrain lidded pieces (unless the lid is fittted to be very loose. Just my experience.
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Michael,

Thanks for your insights! Makes perfect sense.
 

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