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Honduras Rosewood Burl Round Bottom Box 2.0
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Honduras Rosewood Burl Round Bottom Box 2.0
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Gabriel Hoff

Honduras Rosewood Burl Round Bottom Box 2.0

After making a round bottom box in Honduras Rosewood Burl (Dalbergia stevensonii) early last year, I decided there were some features that were too chunky and not elegant enough. Also, after studying Ray Key's proportions and styles in some books I have, there was too large of a sap area. So, on this box, I have attempted to fix my most liked box to date! Design features include, true round bottom, curved sides, chamfered rim, and a more pronounced domed lid. Turned, hollowed and finished with buffed abrasive wax. Size is 1.5" diameter x 1.75" tall. Let me know what you think!
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Reactions: David Croxton, Barry Larson, George Van Beynen and 34 others
Gabriel Hoff
An additional view....

y9wU7Vf.jpeg
 
Will Armstrong
It is exquisite Gabriel! Your refinements in form from the previous piece are significant. I like the split color on the previous one though--it has a Yin and Yang sorta thing going on which I find appealing.
 
Gabriel Hoff
Thanks guys! @Dean Center I think it turned out really well, but I am really surprised that I could improve on some of my boxes. I always thought I was "there" and then a few months later I look at a piece and think, eww, it could have been done better! Like my Member's Gallery in the American Woodturner, those boxes are not really that great now, since I have improved my work since last August. @Will Armstrong this piece actually does have a nice sap area.
 
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Alan Weinberg
Love it but 2 questions re turning these—based on your wonderful written tutorial. First, why create a mortise on the lid when just hollowing it and leaving a thin wall will let the tenon of the base seal the top well? Second, here’s an easy way to work the cotton without needing a jam chuck—have you tried this? Just flip the base and grab the tenon with the same chuck jaws even after hollowing. I’d show a picture but can’t do it in these comments. Thanks.
 
Gabriel Hoff
Alan Weinberg said:
Love it but 2 questions re turning these—based on your wonderful written tutorial. First, why create a mortise on the lid when just hollowing it and leaving a thin wall will let the tenon of the base seal the top well? Second, here’s an easy way to work the cotton without needing a jam chuck—have you tried this? Just flip the base and grab the tenon with the same chuck jaws even after hollowing. I’d show a picture but can’t do it in these comments. Thanks.
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Thanks Alan! I can answer these for you. First when I hollow the lid I like it to be curved on the inside, so by making a mortise on the lid side square and separate from the curve, I can ensure that the lid fit will be snug. This also eliminates error as I fit the lid onto the base. Even if the interior profile was curved and I tried to make just the edge flat where it sits on the tenon, it would mean taking a lot more time fitting the base tenon and potential error. On the other question I don't grip the tenon with my chuck when finishing the bottom as that would leave serrated marks on the tenon because my jaws have serrations. (They are the Vicmarc Shark Jaws). Even if you use a true dovetail jaw, there are still little "grip" marks on the ends of the dovetail profile, therefore it would make marks on the finished tenon. I hope this answers your questions! :)
 
Alan Weinberg
Gabriel Hoff said:
Thanks Alan! I can answer these for you. First when I hollow the lid I like it to be curved on the inside, so by making a mortise on the lid side square and separate from the curve, I can ensure that the lid fit will be snug. This also eliminates error as I fit the lid onto the base. Even if the interior profile was curved and I tried to make just the edge flat where it sits on the tenon, it would mean taking a lot more time fitting the base tenon and potential error. On the other question I don't grip the tenon with my chuck when finishing the bottom as that would leave serrated marks on the tenon because my jaws have serrations. (They are the Vicmarc Shark Jaws). Even if you use a true dovetail jaw, there are still little "grip" marks on the ends of the dovetail profile, therefore it would make marks on the finished tenon. I hope this answers your questions! :)
Click to expand...
Yes and thanks. Makes perfect sense. You have thought it all out.
 

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