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#2270 spike Maple burl
Odie

#2270 spike Maple burl

The bottom is rather plain, so if anyone has any great ideas to do the bottom of these, let me know in the comments below.....thanks. :)

The big void is the determining factor for placement of the bowl interior.

-o-
Odie, since this one is finished you may not want to mess with it - but maybe for future burls of this type. But, if you want to .....

1) Not liking all the different shaped rounded edges. I would cut off the edge with the void parallel to the "KO" edge ... matching the the distance away from the bowl's rim (w/ interrupted grooves). This would eliminate most or all of the big void. Maybe even cut off a little of the short edge as well - then match the radius on both (all) corners. A smaller radius would be preferable, IMO. Of course, this will reduce the overall size of your piece which wasn't very large to start with.

2) Reverse chuck/mount the piece - by vacuum (ideal ... but I don't think you have that option) or by jam chucking or Cole/Jumbo jaws. Add grooves/details to your heart's content! 😀 You could also remove some wood to make a very, very shallow curve (plate-like) so that you don't remove much of the "spike" feature. That would also remove or make smaller any of the original void and give the piece a little "lift" off the table.

Just my 2¢ !!! 😇
 
Odie, since this one is finished you may not want to mess with it - but maybe for future burls of this type. But, if you want to .....

1) Not liking all the different shaped rounded edges. I would cut off the edge with the void parallel to the "KO" edge ... matching the the distance away from the bowl's rim (w/ interrupted grooves). This would eliminate most or all of the big void. Maybe even cut off a little of the short edge as well - then match the radius on both (all) corners. A smaller radius would be preferable, IMO. Of course, this will reduce the overall size of your piece which wasn't very large to start with.

2) Reverse chuck/mount the piece - by vacuum (ideal ... but I don't think you have that option) or by jam chucking or Cole/Jumbo jaws. Add grooves/details to your heart's content! 😀 You could also remove some wood to make a very, very shallow curve (plate-like) so that you don't remove much of the "spike" feature. That would also remove or make smaller any of the original void and give the piece a little "lift" off the table.

Just my 2¢ !!! 😇
Hiya Tom....and, thank you very much for your observations and opinions on how to improve on this one. I'm not thinking I'd be interested in making the overall size (diameter) much smaller......but, I really do think your suggestion about reverse mounting for turning some sort of design on the bottom a very interesting consideration. Doing something about raising the whole thing from the surface is also a possibility when reverse mounting.

Too bad this particular configuration of burl isn't available just any ol' time you want to have some to practice with. I'd really be interested in doing a number of experimental shapes and concepts with this.

I'm currently seasoning several first-turned bowls that have burl figure that will be retained on the rim of more "odie-like" bowl configurations.** Hard to say when these will be available for finish turning, because.....you know......it's hard to out-guess the time element for the seasoning process. A couple of those I expect to second turn sometime this year, though. :)

** Come to think of it, I do have an "odie-traditional" bowl that has some natural burl figure retained on the rim. I think it's an Australian burl.....and it's in the in-progress queue out in the shop right now. This one should be in the final process in about a month or so.....

-o-
 

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