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1982 Cottonwood Burl.
Ebony Ornament
The X Bowl
1982 Cottonwood Burl
1982 Cottonwood Burl.
Old Oak Emerging alt view
Old Oak Emerging
Mistery Maple Burl
Odie

1982 Cottonwood Burl.

View of bottom/foot.

This is another of my first attempts using the Sakura pen for adding an inventory number. As others have indicated, the red on light wood isn't the best combination, and I agree with that. Black ink would have been better. The process involves adding the Sakura inked number on bare wood, waiting 24hrs, applying the Danish oil, after the Danish Oil is fully dried, then applying an Avery label over the number for the first two steps of the Beall Buffing process.

-----odie-----
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Odie
Note: I buffed two more bowls last night, and had success with removing the Avery label after the Tripoli. The Sakura pen ink appears to be pretty durable, as long as it's done on bare wood, with a 24hr curing time before applying the Danish Oil.

-----odie-----
 
Will Armstrong
May I ask, is your logo done with a branding iron... and if so any details about the tool and process would be helpful. thanks.
 
Odie
Will Armstrong said:
May I ask, is your logo done with a branding iron... and if so any details about the tool and process would be helpful. thanks.
Click to expand...
Will, I have tried branding irons in the past, with less than perfect results. The problem is holding the branding iron perfectly perpendicular to the branded surface. This sounds easy enough, but in practice, one needs to expect brands that don't look very good.

I'm currently using a wood burning pen for my logo. It's difficult to do nicely flowing curves with a wood burning pen, so the real trick is to design your logo, using nothing but straight lines.

-----odie-----
 
Will Armstrong
Thanks Odie- You have confirmed what I suspected about branding irons. The process seems a bit scary. I will give the wood burning a try. I was going to maybe create a logo out of initials, which shouldn't be too hard! WA
 

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