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2080 Very Curly Sequoia Redwood.
Odie

2080 Very Curly Sequoia Redwood.

Completed 11/18/2022, Original block was 12% MC, and after roughing, it took 4 months to reach stabilization. 7 9/16" x 1 13/16", 5.1 oz, Sanded to 1500gt, Danish Oil Natural, Beall 3-step buffed. Sold same day listed for $185. Thanks to @William Rogers for the tip on the 1500gt micromesh, which I used in a hand-held random orbit fashion for the final surface preparation.....this bowl really needed a finer grit than my usual 600gt.

Note: Even though this bowl sold quickly, I sold another bowl recently, that was on my Etsy site for more than 7 years.....you just never can tell! :)
Stellar work Odie. I particularly like the way the grain interacts with the embellishments on the rim.
 
Great figure on this redwood - the grain, the curl, and I imagine, some amazing chatoyance - it is gorgeous!
Nice work as usual, Odie. 1500 grit ????? ... now it will be an easy move up to 2K & 4K Abralon sponge backed pads. :) It will only take a few more minutes at that point.;)
 
Great figure on this redwood - the grain, the curl, and I imagine, some amazing chatoyance - it is gorgeous!
Nice work as usual, Odie. 1500 grit ????? ... now it will be an easy move up to 2K & 4K Abralon sponge backed pads. :) It will only take a few more minutes at that point.;)

Hi Tom.....

Thanks for the comment, friend. :)

Actually, I have 3 separate inspections and follow-up random orbit by hand. Two of those inspections are done after the Danish oil is cured, and because of that factor, there is clogging of the micromesh that doesn't wash out. This is a problem that I'm still dealing with, and I may have to go to A275 superfine Norton papers.....that is, after I use up all of the 1500gt micromesh I currently have on hand. For my purposes, all I really want is to transition smoothly to the Tripoli abrasive compound, and for most of my turnings, 600gt used in three inspections, is good to make that transition. It is only the occasional wood species, or specific individual wood example that require any more than that.

-----odie-----
 
Hi Tom.....

Thanks for the comment, friend. :)

Actually, I have 3 separate inspections and follow-up random orbit by hand. Two of those inspections are done after the Danish oil is cured, and because of that factor, there is clogging of the micromesh that doesn't wash out. This is a problem that I'm still dealing with, and I may have to go to A275 superfine Norton papers.....that is, after I use up all of the 1500gt micromesh I currently have on hand. For my purposes, all I really want is to transition smoothly to the Tripoli abrasive compound, and for most of my turnings, 600gt used in three inspections, is good to make that transition. It is only the occasional wood species, or specific individual wood example that require any more than that.

-----odie-----
Hi, Odie ..... I realize everyone has their own finishing routine and preferences, including me!
For as long as I can remember I generally follow this procedure on most pieces. First off - I never (very rarely) use an abrasive over a finish (except maybe a brushed on water base finish to level). I sand through the grits up to #600 (or #800 & #1000). Then for good measure I continue with some 3M Ultrafine & Microfine sanding pads/sponges followed by 2000 & 4000 Abralon pads. All sanding above #600 goes very quickly the higher you go - maybe 20-30 seconds for the size bowl you usually make. At this point the wood will almost glow. THEN apply your oil finish ... when cured you can go to your Tripoli wheel for buffing. If you have any dust nibs (not usually the case with an oil finish) a quick swipe with #0000 steel wool or the Abralon pad should remove them before buffing. Try it on one of your pieces or a practice board - you might like it! :)
 

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