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Wooden jaws for holding square box on lathe

Discussion in 'Tutorials and Tips' started by Harold Bowern, Aug 25, 2020.

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  1. Harold Bowern

    Harold Bowern

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2011
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    Location (City & State):
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    I had watched a demo by Pat Carroll on making his square boxes on the lathe. In the demo he held the box form in wooden jaws mounted on a chuck jaw plate. I have seen various wooden jaw configurations for holding turnings that are adapted to fit chuck jaw plates or jaws themselves.

    Could anyone give information on where I may find information to make wood jaws to hold square boxes

    Thanks in advance
    Cheers
    Harold
     
  2. Tom Gall

    Tom Gall

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    I don't know what his boxes look like. More information (size, etc.) would be helpful in offering any solutions.
    A few options: 1) Flat jaws on which you can mount 4 pieces of wood to your specs. I know Oneway sells them for their chucks ... not sure about other brands. 2) Do you have Cole jaws (or whatever they are called)? Screw on four pieces of wood to form a square opening ... just make sure they are centered. 3) Just mount your square box between the jaws of your scroll chuck. This will leave some marks but if you plan on texturing or carving they won't matter.
     
    Harold Bowern likes this.
  3. Harold Bowern

    Harold Bowern

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    Thanks Tom. The boxes are cubes about 3" x 3" x 3" . I will see what I can mount on my cole jaw to secure the box.
     
  4. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    There is a simple holding device used by architectural turners for rosettes which are square blocks.

    Mount a disc on a faceplate. Hold a rosette ( or box blank) centered on the disc with the tailstock
    Screw blocks of wood on 3 sides of the rosette. The blocks do not meet at the corners.

    On the 4 side a wider block is ripped into 2 pieces at an angle with the blade at 45 degrees. The outside part is screwed to the Disc. The free piece is a locking wedge.
    A tap with a mallet on the sliding wedge locks it a tap on the other end loosens it.

    This diagram may give you an idea of how it works.

    9015E427-AD21-416F-8183-D18135B03D4A.jpeg
     
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  5. Tom Gall

    Tom Gall

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    Forgot to mention that the Cole jaws (or Flat jaws) method is adaptable to various sized squares/cubes (within reason) dependent on your chuck jaws opening capacity. Also important to have a reasonable amount of contact nearing the maximum amount of opening. And, thicker wood jaws may be needed if the distance from the chuck is longer, say 6" rather than 3". Of course, it's a simple task to add new, larger wood pieces if necessary.
     
  6. Harold Bowern

    Harold Bowern

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    Thanks Tom I appreciate the info
    Regards
    Harold
     
  7. Don Wattenhofer

    Don Wattenhofer

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    The One Way profile jaws do a good job of holding a square piece, but they will mark the work piece if directly applied. The marking can be eliminated with short strips of hard wood between 1/16" and 1/8" thick X 5/8" wide X a little under the width of the box side and attached with double faced tape. The dove tail jaws can be adapted by turning a dove tail tenon on a square block, then take a slice off of the end with a small amount of the original square and make cuts diagonally to get 4 45 - 90 - 45 triangles, then cut just enough of the dove tail side to fill in the jaw using the outside flat as a guide. The round to square inserts can be held in place with double faced tape.
     
  8. stu senator

    stu senator

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    On the base of the the square box attach a glue block.
    On the base of the of the square box turn an internal opening for expansion jaws.
    Centering would be a problem but with careful planning it should be obtainable. Start with the glue block or internal opening and work from there.
    Have fun.

    Stu
     

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