I also have had great results with PC Petrifier wood hardener on some rely splatted Birch and Maple might have to treat more than once
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Wood Hardener? Stabilizing?
- Thread starter Tom Albrecht
- Start date
I was pleased with how it worked. Turned the outside to final shape with a bit of room to take off a bit more. Treated the entire surface, foot, tenon and all. After it dried I worked it with my NR scraper and got a very good surface to then sand. Not 100% tear out free but darn close. Very spalted wood so a few very small places fit fine.
Have you applied finish yet?
Yes, first thing this morning. Very pleased with how it turned out. No evidence that the hardener altered the oil finish. It moved a bit more than I anticipated once I worked the inside and lost my window (forgot) to round over the inside lip more. Oh well.
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Glad to here it. I'm guessing the trick with re-turning after the hardener is applied is to find the "shore line" between where the hardener has saturated and the "dry beach" where the wood is untreated.
Mark, funny but that's a good analogy I think. That's why I decided to work with my NR scraper rather than scrape with my gouge. I've been known to slip with my gouge and create a groove I have to deal with. Hard to mess up with a NR scraper and while takes more time it's much easier to work to find the dry boundary.
An oil finish will “take”. I have used the mw hardner which I think is similar. After cutting/scraping the surface its a lottery as to how much oil will penetrate. Blotchiness - no worse, and maybe better than without the hardner. Usually these punky pieces have so much natural color variation that the effect of the hardner blends right in. I used thinned poly but the results are very similar with oil.