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What are your go-to finishes?

Joined
Oct 7, 2018
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Hey, all!

I finally have my work area set up with dust collection and all, and I'll start turning this weekend if I can make some time! I haven't yet bought any finishing products and with so many different products available it's rather confusing. And since most are not cheap, I don't want to buy things that have a very bold look or are difficult to use well.

So, to learn I plan to start with some simpler spindle items like a coffee scoop handle, candlesticks, ring holder, etc. What are some of your favorite all-around finishes that aren't too expensive? I'm thinking moderate gloss. I'd like get just a couple of products that I can use on multiple types of items with nice results. I don't want to spend a bunch more $$ on a wide variety; I'll collect and experiment as I learn and develop preferences.

Thanks!
 
Joined
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My go to finish is Watco Danish Oil. Its something I can use in cold and warm weather. On a few things I'll use Deft spray lacquer but usually not when its winter (too cold to use it outside). I also like Tried and True Original. But I would say I mostly use danish oil.
 
Joined
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If it doesn't need to be food safe or super glossy, I go with Howards. I love this stuff. It's fairly cheap and readily available at big box stores.
 

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Joined
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You probably hoped for a simple answer, and this one isn't it. You will find that the number of answers to this question is about 3.4 times the number of turners. All possible answers have pros and cons--there is no perfect solution. On the plus side, finish doesn't have to be expensive, or woodturner specific, or purchased from a specialty store.

Things that go into the answer:
  • Food or utility or decorative piece? ("food safe" is a whole nuther debate; utility pieces get handled so the finish needs to tolerate this; decorative pieces need to look terrific, with little handling and no need for food safe)
  • High shine or modest glow or matte finish? (you've already answered this one)
  • How fast does it need to dry? (slower tends to catch more airborne debris)
  • How fast does it need to cure? (seems like I'm always applying finish 3 days before something is going to be a gift and stinky gifts aren't popular)
  • What equipment/environment is available? (You've already had someone respond that they don't use lacquer when it's cold because they apply outside)
  • Is flammability an issue for you? (some finishes can 'spontaneously combust' on a wadded up rag or piece of paper towel)
  • Do you care if it darkens the wood or becomes amber over time? (Bummer on that bleached holly chess set you made)
  • How much effort and time are you willing to put into it?
  • Is it important for the recipient to be able to repair/replenish the finish? (oils are less durable but easy to replenish, film finishes are more durable but not easily repaired)
When you attend your local club meeting, you can see the results from different finish products and methods, and ask the maker why they chose what they did. That's a pretty good way to find what appeals to you. In time, you will figure out the answers that fit you and your style of work and product.
 

hockenbery

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As Damon suggested, Watco is a good basic finish easy to work with long shelf life.
It does change the color of wood usually giving it pleasing warm look.
Watco builds up slowly.

I prefer Waterlox for most things because it builds up faster than Watco and it has very little color change.
and but you need to keep the air away from it or it gels up.
To prevent gelling I put it in plastic water bottles. After each use squeeze the bottle as the cap is put on allowing a small bit to run out. In the end the bottles get folded and bent to get all the air out. Waterlox will last quite a few month with the water bottles. Left in the can it last maybe a week.

I sand to 320 before the first coat. Sand the first coat with 400 then use 0000 scotch brite between subsequent coats. Each coat is minute wipemall the excess off the let dry overnight.
I usually use 4 or 5 coats so it is a week long process to apply the finish.

Waterlox does say it’s product is food safe when cured,
 
Joined
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I agree with Dean Center's comments.

You might find Bob Flexner's book "Understanding Finishes" a good read, it takes a lot of the mystery out of finishing materials. Unfortunately owing to the obfuscating ways of the industry it is still hard to apply what you'll learn so it ends up being all alchemy anyway.

I have two finishes that I choose from. First is mineral oil and bees wax. I buy the Howards product "Butcher Block Conditioner". This is non curing. Wipe on, let sit half an hour, wipe off. I apply 2 or 3 coats. Darkens the wood, low luster finish. It is not very durable, but can be re-applied after wear to refresh the finish.

Lately I have wanted a little more shine, not glossy (which isn't my taste), but satin. I use Bartley Gel Varnish. Satin finish, wipe on, wipe off, light buff and 6 hours to cure before re-coating. 2 or 3 coats total. No sanding in between coats.

I like simple.
 
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Joined
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For me my go to's are polymerized tung oil, just love the stuff and wipe on poly.The tung oil does have a learning curve but once learned it is a great finish and the wipe on poly is very easy to use ,comes in different sheen's and can always be lightly sanded with fine steel wool after drying to lessen the luster if need be. I should also add for food safe products I use tried and true original wood finish.
 
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Joined
Oct 7, 2018
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Denver, CO
Thank you all! That does help give me some direction as I begin trying different finishes. I have a good amount of new green wood just for practice, so I'll try a few different things before making a finished product.
 
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