I have been thinking about using wet sanding and also some of the abrasive pastes, but wanted some input on people with experience in using them. Also do they effect finishes that can be used. Any info will be appreciated.
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Wet sanding and finishes
- Thread starter Tom Beatty
- Start date
https://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/wet-sanding.14089/
Here is a previous discussion on wet sanding. I’m sure there are many more if you search.
Here is a previous discussion on wet sanding. I’m sure there are many more if you search.
Last edited:
Don't mean to be glib but depends on what you're sanding. Obviously if it's wood, aluminum-oxide is best. If it's finish, depends on the coating. If an air-dried finish, I would guess wet-sanding is good - don't know - I don't use air-dried finish.
If a catalyzed, you might investigate Eagle's dry offering - it's available from Turningwood.com - Steve carries most Assilex grits (cloth backed). But if you're sanding orange-peel, you need a paper backed - Eagle yellow is great.
Eagle is silica carbide which is much sharper than aluminum oxide - also more expensive. Used with light pressure and kept clean with a shoe bruch, one sheet will do most jobs.
If you sand on a running lathe, probably best to stick with aluminum-oxide. Regarding "paste", I know lot's of guys get good results from the Beall system - not sure how best to use. If compound, then you're talking buffing - I use wool-twist on the first pass and then finish with foam, both on a pneumatic 3" buffer. Lots of compounds out there - I've found that Wizard's is good for the clear-coat I use.
When it comes to finishing, "moderation is for monks"
If a catalyzed, you might investigate Eagle's dry offering - it's available from Turningwood.com - Steve carries most Assilex grits (cloth backed). But if you're sanding orange-peel, you need a paper backed - Eagle yellow is great.
Eagle is silica carbide which is much sharper than aluminum oxide - also more expensive. Used with light pressure and kept clean with a shoe bruch, one sheet will do most jobs.
If you sand on a running lathe, probably best to stick with aluminum-oxide. Regarding "paste", I know lot's of guys get good results from the Beall system - not sure how best to use. If compound, then you're talking buffing - I use wool-twist on the first pass and then finish with foam, both on a pneumatic 3" buffer. Lots of compounds out there - I've found that Wizard's is good for the clear-coat I use.
When it comes to finishing, "moderation is for monks"
I do 3 types of wet sanding and 2 types of polishing buffing, depending on the finish type and desired appearance.
1) wet sand bare wood with thinned poly, usually some dye added. I do this if I have some small defect or grain filling. Soak the surface and use 220 wet/dry, get a paste and squeegee it on the surface
2) wet sand an oil or poly surface. Already applied 1 or 2 coats, danish oil method, allowed to dry, wet sand to smooth out if needed. 400 up to 1500 gr, each grit a separate application. Drying between coats. I dont build a film. Poly will leave ghost lines if layers of film thickness are sanded through.
3) wet sand a lacquer finish, nc or precat doesnt matter. Use water with dish soap. 400 to 2000. Only use lacquer for a fully filled hi gloss piano type finish. I use lacquer because it is great to spray and each coat burns in, no ghost lines.
buffing - used on oil/poly finishes. Same as Beal system. Not much if any surface film thickness so I dont use liquid polish
polish - for thicker film lacquer. I use Meguiars auto paint polishes and Lake Country foam pads, 2” with a drill, 7” with a polisher on bigger stuff. Usually fine cut, swirl remover, machine glaze, synthetic sealant.
I dont use any of the abrasive pasts. Tried a couple years ago and was not satisfied.
1) wet sand bare wood with thinned poly, usually some dye added. I do this if I have some small defect or grain filling. Soak the surface and use 220 wet/dry, get a paste and squeegee it on the surface
2) wet sand an oil or poly surface. Already applied 1 or 2 coats, danish oil method, allowed to dry, wet sand to smooth out if needed. 400 up to 1500 gr, each grit a separate application. Drying between coats. I dont build a film. Poly will leave ghost lines if layers of film thickness are sanded through.
3) wet sand a lacquer finish, nc or precat doesnt matter. Use water with dish soap. 400 to 2000. Only use lacquer for a fully filled hi gloss piano type finish. I use lacquer because it is great to spray and each coat burns in, no ghost lines.
buffing - used on oil/poly finishes. Same as Beal system. Not much if any surface film thickness so I dont use liquid polish
polish - for thicker film lacquer. I use Meguiars auto paint polishes and Lake Country foam pads, 2” with a drill, 7” with a polisher on bigger stuff. Usually fine cut, swirl remover, machine glaze, synthetic sealant.
I dont use any of the abrasive pasts. Tried a couple years ago and was not satisfied.
I think the pastes come into play more so when you have stabilized wood. It will polish the plasticized wood up to a glass like finish. Same as woods once a finish has been put on it. It will polish the finish, or sand the finish with the pumice or other grits they put in the abrasive pastes.I find fine grit sand paper works just as well and you don’t have to worry about getting all that annoying paste off the piece if your going to put another coat on or you have any cracks or imperfections in the wood.
I wrote a couple articles on the sanding pastes and finishes and found they work very well. They are wax based and the finish was good enough for me that I needed no other finish for these salad bowls. The Hampshire Sheen has microcrystalline wax which helps retard water spots and finger prints.