Vari-grind 2 vs Vari-grind

[Pete Staehling]

I have been using a shop built Vari-grind clone, but am debating whether to buy a new Wolverine system or build a shop built setup for my new grinder when it arrives. If I go with the Wolverine system I am curious about the Vari-grind 2. If I am used to the vari-grind clone is there any advantage to the vari-grind 2? Or would I be wise to stick to the regular vari-grind?

 

[Richard Coers]

As far as I am concerned, the vari-grind 2 is for the sharpener who has a total lack of either concentration, or co-ordination. That's where the 2 comes from. LOL.

 

[Karl Loeblein]

I actually bought a used VariGrind 2 in order because it was very inexpensive, and now find the 'lack of either concentration, or co-ordination' is a big plus. I'm able to sharpen my gouges really fast without worrying about the gouge slipping off the grinding wheel. On the other hand, one con is the VariGrind 2 base doesn't allow the tool to use the very outer edges of the grinding wheel but this isn't a problem since none of my wheels are very wide (i.e. over 1").

Here's a thought that I need to test soon. The VariGrind 2 tool holder can be pulled from it's base so maybe it could be used with the pocket arm in similar fashion to the VariGrind 1. If doing this gives the VariGrind 2 the same advantages as VariGrind 1 then I'd say get whichever one is cheapest.

 

[Pete Staehling]

On the other hand, one con is the VariGrind 2 base doesn't allow the tool to use the very outer edges of the grinding wheel but this isn't a problem since none of my wheels are very wide (i.e. over 1").

Yes, that had me wondering if it would mean the need of more frequent dressing of the wheel.

Here's a thought that I need to test soon. The VariGrind 2 tool holder can be pulled from it's base so maybe it could be used with the pocket arm in similar fashion to the VariGrind 1. If doing this gives the VariGrind 2 the same advantages as VariGrind 1 then I'd say get whichever one is cheapest.

That hadn't occurred to me. Let us know how that works out if you try it. The 2 usually costs more though.

 

[john lucas]

Just build your own copy of the Ellsworth jig. I never adjust the arm of my wolverine. I agree with Richard on the varigrind vs varigrind 2. I will send you photos of my home made Ellsworth jigs if you think you would like to build one.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I found the vari-grind 2 to be a bit sloppy and got a Sharp Fast system for my students. I then feel safe as they can not fall off the side of the stone. It does lead to a lot of stone dressing as the tools are sharpened in the middle of the stone.

 

[john lucas]

There were 2 reasons I stayed with the orginal varigrind. One is that it grooves the stone in the middle as Bill mentioned. The other is that I like to move the Jig forward in the V arm to remove most of the metal under the cutting edge leaving just 2 or 3 mm of the original grind. It makes my tools easier to use and I can feel the cut better. Hard to do this with the Varigrind 2. I also grind my spindle gouges using the same bowl gouge setting but I put a V block in the V arm to move the vargind forward to give me a more acute angle on my spindle gouges. Hard to do that with the Varigrind 2.

 

[robo hippy]

I did pick up a Varigrind recently, but have yet to set it up since I sharpen on platforms only. When talking to the tech at Craft Supplies, he told me not to even bother with the 2. I plan to have students in the shop, and figure they may need it for sharpening.

robo hippy

 

[Pete Staehling]

Thanks to all for the helpful comments. They verified what I had guessed and filled in the blanks where I hadn't.

Just build your own copy of the Ellsworth jig. I never adjust the arm of my wolverine. I agree with Richard on the varigrind vs varigrind 2. I will send you photos of my home made Ellsworth jigs if you think you would like to build one.

Yeah, I built what is essentially a wooden vari-grind clone and never change the angle setting, so I can see where something with a fixed angle would be fine for everything I currently do and if I wanted to do some future sharpening task that required a different angle, whipping up another jig for than angle would be an easy task. Not sure if that will ever come up though.
Please do send the photos.

 

[Karl Loeblein]

There were 2 reasons I stayed with the orginal varigrind. One is that it grooves the stone in the middle as Bill mentioned. The other is that I like to move the Jig forward in the V arm to remove most of the metal under the cutting edge leaving just 2 or 3 mm of the original grind. It makes my tools easier to use and I can feel the cut better. Hard to do this with the Varigrind 2. I also grind my spindle gouges using the same bowl gouge setting but I put a V block in the V arm to move the vargind forward to give me a more acute angle on my spindle gouges. Hard to do that with the Varigrind 2.

John, The VG2 base has embossed letters along the bar so it can be moved in further for grinding off the heel, and then set back to the original setting without needing to use any blocks. Also, you can grind off the heel free hand since it accuracy isn't important. It may not be better, but just saying it isn't hard either.

 

[Lars Hansen]

The first few minutes, the limited movement of the VG2 feels nice.
The following hours and years, you will have to live with all the other limitations of the design.
Buy VG1 and never look back.
Oh, and no: A VG2 jig in a normal pocket does *not* make a VG1. Different geometry.

 

[Karl Loeblein]

...Oh, and no: A VG2 jig in a normal pocket does *not* make a VG1. Different geometry.

Both the VG1 and VG2 tool holders have adjustable arms that point to the tip of the tool (when extended out approximately 2"). There doesn't appear to be a big geometry difference. See my test results below.

...That hadn't occurred to me. Let us know how that works out if you try it. The 2 usually costs more though.

Pete, I was able to use the VG2 tool holder jig tonight just like a VG1 jig. Got the same exact grind using the VG2 jig with either the VG2 base or the pocket base like VG1.



For what it's worth, here's the lettering on the VG2 base that can be used reset the distance to the grinder. Handy if you don't want to keep up with other things like blocks or pvc pipes to set the distance.

 

[Pete Staehling]

One other factor in selecting is the matter of width of gouge that they accept. The vari-grind 2 says it accepts up to 3/4". The vari-grind says 1/8" to 5/8" and the vari-grind wide says 1/2" to 1-1/8". That creates a bit of a problem for me since I use a 1" gouge a lot and like to use the jig for it. My shop built vari-grind clone handles the range fine, but the wolverine offerings would require me to either buy two jigs make do in some other manner.

Since I was already on the fence, that may be reason enough to shift the scale to sticking with shop built jigs, either the vari-grind clone or a single angle one (or multiple ones if necessary). Given that I may go with a totally shop built setup again. I probably could rework what I have, but while what I have been using has worked okay, it will be a nice chance to do a better job this time.

 

[Pete Staehling]

Well the grinder got here and I went ahead and put together a base using King Heiple's Shop-Built Jig in the Fine Woodworking Article as an inspiration. I modified it a little, but basically followed the idea. For the actual gouge jig, I am using my old shop built vari-grind clone deciding it was fine and in no need of upgrading. I have some finishing touches to put on the setup, but it is complete enough to be in use already. I used stuff I had on hand, so the out of pocket cost was zero dollars other than the grinder itself.

 

[Lars Hansen]

@ Karl:
Interesting comparison.
My "geometry" point was that the leg angle axis crosses the gouge axis in different ways.
The practical impact is another story, well covered by Dennis Gooding and Jon Murphy.

 

[Pete Staehling]

@ Karl:
Interesting comparison.
My "geometry" point was that the leg angle axis crosses the gouge axis in different ways.
The practical impact is another story, well covered by Dennis Gooding and Jon Murphy.
View attachment 31960 View attachment 31961

Those illustrations are enlightening, to me at least. Pivoting on a point that coincides with the tip of the tool makes some logical sense to me and at the very least make it easier to understand what the changes in angle are doing. It might make for some rethinking of how to achieve various grinds (I think it can be done).

I think if I were starting from scratch and going to design a jig without all of the established practices in place, I'd seriously consider pivoting the way the 2 pivots. The thing is it is easier to build something like the regular vari-grind at least diy from wood. That is my non expert take on it.

 

[Kurt Cozens]

One other factor in selecting is the matter of width of gouge that they accept. The vari-grind 2 says it accepts up to 3/4". The vari-grind says 1/8" to 5/8" and the vari-grind wide says 1/2" to 1-1/8". That creates a bit of a problem for me since I use a 1" gouge a lot and like to use the jig for it. My shop built vari-grind clone handles the range fine, but the wolverine offerings would require me to either buy two jigs make do in some other manner.

Since I was already on the fence, that may be reason enough to shift the scale to sticking with shop built jigs, either the vari-grind clone or a single angle one (or multiple ones if necessary). Given that I may go with a totally shop built setup again. I probably could rework what I have, but while what I have been using has worked okay, it will be a nice chance to do a better job this time.

Thanks to all for the helpful comments. They verified what I had guessed and filled in the blanks where I hadn't.


Yeah, I built what is essentially a wooden vari-grind clone and never change the angle setting, so I can see where something with a fixed angle would be fine for everything I currently do and if I wanted to do some future sharpening task that required a different angle, whipping up another jig for than angle would be an easy task. Not sure if that will ever come up though.
Please do send the photos.

I have a wolverine ginding system. However it is not large enough to accept a 3/4" gouge. Will the vari-grind system accept a 3/4 inch gouge?

 

[Timothy Allen]

What you need is one of these: https://www.packardwoodworks.com/142614L.html