Tool rest input

[pssmith]

I just recently became addicted to crac..uhh..I mean turning and have been feverishly turning all the while neglecting to cut the grass, play with the kids etc. At any rate, sensing the need for a longer tool rest for longer center work, I bought an "affordable" 12" rest. This rest is connected to the post with an allen screw that I'm not certain has ever been tight. In fact, I've used half of it to rough down blanks while I have a gouge at the other end and not on purpose :mad: .

At any rate, I've just began doing bowls and am thinking about a rest for the interior as well as another 12" straight rest that doesn't go anywhere. Without giving up hope all together on the "modular" rest system, I wanted to solicit wisdom on any reliable systems out there or is it in my best interest to become good friends with a welder who can take some 5/8" round bar steel and make rest that are welded in place.

Any input on helping me in the right direction is greatly appreciated in advance. If this turning thing gets any worse, I may have to find a meeting

Patrick Smith
Denham Springs, LA

 

[woodwish]

The only problems I had with a home-made tool rest a friend gave me was that it tended to be softer steel than the store-bought models and also rusted. I got a lot of dings in it from tools but just filed them out occasionally, and as my technique got better it is not as much of a problem. The rust comes from turning wet wood, and I tried to wipe it down often with machine oil. Didn't stop the rust but helped. I later bought a modular system through CS I think are made by Best Tools. Love'em, but they are all straight and at times I need some curved ones to get in bowls. Haven't seen any I liked well enough to actually purchase yet.

Ray :cool2:

 

[Bob Edwards]

I have used Best Wood Tools tool rests for a long time and couldn't be more pleased. They are so hard that is is difficult to scar them up and very strong. The brass on the mounting post is not just for looks but dampens out vibrations. One suggestion. Any tool rest can be damaged by the sharp edge of a tool. Always ease the edges of a skew or scraper or any other tool that rides on a sharp edge. This will save the rest as well as allow the tool to move more freelyacross the rest. They also have curved modular systems. One of my favorites however is a rest that is 3" in one direction and 6" in the other. On a small bowl or box I can pivot the rest to use the long or short ends for better reach or better access to some spots.
Best Woods is a great company with great people. If you talk to Victor or Sharron give him my best. www.bestwoodtools,com

Bob Edwards, San Antonio.

 

[john lucas]

I am a fan of the Bestwood tool rests myself and have several. I have also made several of my own. I would recommend using Drill rod for tool rests. It's fairly hard but not brittle and the sizes match most lathe banjo's.
You can get it from www.enco.com

 

[Dr_dewey]

homemade tool rests

have made several from cold rolled steel, the curved one is great inside and outside bowls. Made the staight bar from 1" bar stock, brazed to a 5/8" post.
if you are concerned about the steel being soft, get them heat treated (hardened), only costs about $10 in Toronto - or do it yourself if you have the means. The round bar does not make any difference other than it being it bit further away from the piece being turned. My brazing is not great and have had to mend the large one, so far it has held the longest.

 

[Dennis Taylor]

I just recently got the BestTool Rests after info from this site, and I am 110 percent pleased with them, I was wondering about it being round, but that has not been an issue. I got a 9 and a 4 inch rest, that seems to meet my needs, but they have a 12 also...good investment, plus they have inside/outside curves for bowls and flats for boxes...Dennis

 

[Jeff Jilg]

I bought some BestWood tool rests also. They were ok but for the money I would rather have permanently welded rests. So to "save money" I took a welding and forging class at Austin community college. I had a good teacher (Trent), and learned a lot about metal and also welding.

I made about 6 or 7 different tool rests, short, long, curved, etc. They are all welded on 1" posts and frankly the welds are stronger than the rests since I kinda went overboard. The toolrest material is 1" coldroll. If you have the time, it's a fun option to pursue. And you also learn a new skill. In the class I also made some forged and welded stands for a couple of bowls.

In 2 of the posts I drilled holes to accept small U shaped posts for more controlled roughouts. Now, during roughouts the toolrest does the work and mostly I just guide it. No more workouts during roughouts, and they go faster too! The same setup is used for very controlled hollowing. Once you move to a system similar to this it makes you wonder how you ever did hollowing without it.

I just posted several pics of one toolrest in the photo gallery so this does not become an exercise in visualization. Note that I made 3 different U shaped inserts to hold 3 different diameter tools. Each has a small vertical rod welded to the bottom, which is inserted into the appropriate hole.

link to the toolpost pics in the photo gallery

 

[Jeff Jilg]

I posted another pic of the toolrest which is in my gallery pics. Answers to recent questions follow.

The steel used is mild stock steel, I think it might be 1042. The horizontal piece is 1.0" bar stock. The vertical piece needs to be the same size as your existing tool post, and on the PM3520a, that is 1.0". Do not get stainless. It is very difficult to work.

Even though this is mild steel, it is darned tough. It basically does not bend under normal usage...and I have "tested" them with more than one catch during roughouts. It will get dinged up, but for the usage pattern of roughouts that doesn't matter. And when the U shaped insert is used, there won't be dings.

I made some other tool rests which are similar to these, and I'll post a picture of the group this weekend.

Tips for construction:
1) I MIG welded these. The steel is thick and that was the easy way to go. If you don't have access to MIG I would suggest you craft the pieces and take them to a local auto shop or welder. Squareness is important when doing the welds. You also want to chamfer the top of the steel post so that there is plenty of surface contact for the welds to hold.

2) I welded the heck out of the pieces. They aren't beautiful, but the extra steel provides a lot of structural integrity. The welds haven't budged.

3) Cutting the holes. Use plenty of lubricating machinist type oil and withdraw the drill bit frequently. Withdrawing the bit helps with extracting the cut material, and also reduces the formation of long steel strands.

4) In forging the U shape I made 3 actual U shaped inserts to fit 3 different toolsizes. They won't be perfect, so you can tune them a bit with a dremel type tool after the forging and welding. The U shape insert tops are made from 5/16" or 3/8" mild steel.

5) When you are all done with welding and forging you may want to clean up MIG splatter and machine marks with a dremel tool and a rotating wire brush. The cleanup will smooth out the surfaces and also remove metal pieces which might cut your hands during normal usage.

Hope this helps. I had fun making the toolposts, and I use them all the time.
:cool2:

 

[Bowen Turner]

I have the modular system from woodcraft and I don't like it. I have both the large and small curved rests. I find that no matter how tight I think it is attached to the post, that it loosens while I am turning. Now, as I become more experienced maybe that will change, but for now, it's not good. I also find that I can't work on the bowl edge and maybe first half inch of the inside (or outside) because of the way the rest attaches to the post....it's in the way. Since I have an old TL1200, there is no way to make quick rest adjustments, everything has to be adjusted from underneath...loosen the locking mechanism, move banjo, tighten locking mechanism.....take me about a minute each time......which is a long time when you need to do it several times in 10 minutes to work on the edge.

 

[akransom]

Home made tool rests

Become friends with a welder! I use cold roll steel and it is very hard and after several years most are in great shape. On my site www.turningaround.org in the Tips section there is an extensive write up with pics on various style of tool rests.