Stitching Up A Bowl Crack

[Kevin Weir]

The bark inclusions on these 2 cherry bowls fell out during the drying process. I chose not to fill the void with epoxy and wanted to try something different. So I drilled small holes along the sides and am planning on using a thin braided cord to stitch them up.
There are several stitch patterns I could use and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations. Also, how would you deal with the ends, poke them in a hole and afix with CA glue? And what would be your choice of colour for the cord? I know this is subjective, but I’m interested in your thoughts of what would best complement the orange cherry colour.

 

[john lucas]

I prefer a black or. Brown cord. As far as lacing g pattern I dont really have.an opinion. There are lots of choices that I have used in leather work.

 

[Robert D Evans]

Remember that in two months, that cherry bowl will turn much darker brown. Especially, if it's put near a window. I think I would go with a black cord to contrast with the browner wood that it's going to turn to. Browner? Is that a word?

 

[Ron Solfest]

How about copper wire?

 

[Tim Connell]

I have used copper wire on several bowl/cracks. Rather than using a single wire trying to fit the holes, I use "art wire" from 20 - 26 ga and either braid it or twist multiple strands. The art wire comes in a variety of colors (finishes) from copper to silver, gold and bronze.

To twist it, anchor several strands in a vise, around a screw or something else and put the other ends in a drill. Holding tension on the wire, use the drill to twist it. Even with multiple strands twisted, it threads easily through holes and bends easily enough to give a nice tight looking stitch. I usually just use normal shoe stitch pattern.

Whether you use cordage wire or something else, I agree with the comments above to go with a darker color. I think a bronze color would nicely compliment the cherry both now and when it darkens.

Here is a honey locust bowl about 10 " in diameter that was stitched with 2 strands of 22 ga bronze wire twisted with a drill.

 

[hockenbery]

I have seen some pieces with black leather lacing that looked great.
It is available in different diameters.

1.5 mm would probably fit your holes it’s a bit less than a 1/16”.

 

[George Kuipers]

I use mostly silver wire for inlay and stitching up cracks. To hide the end push it in the hole with a previous strand and lock with ca glue.

 

[Kevin Weir]

I have used copper wire on several bowl/cracks. Rather than using a single wire trying to fit the holes, I use "art wire" from 20 - 26 ga and either braid it or twist multiple strands. The art wire comes in a variety of colors (finishes) from copper to silver, gold and bronze.

To twist it, anchor several strands in a vise, around a screw or something else and put the other ends in a drill. Holding tension on the wire, use the drill to twist it. Even with multiple strands twisted, it threads easily through holes and bends easily enough to give a nice tight looking stitch. I usually just use normal shoe stitch pattern.

Whether you use cordage wire or something else, I agree with the comments above to go with a darker color. I think a bronze color would nicely compliment the cherry both now and when it darkens.

Here is a honey locust bowl about 10 " in diameter that was stitched with 2 strands of 22 ga bronze wire twisted with a drill.

View attachment 36949 View attachment 36950

Nice effect Tim. With all these good ideas, I’m going to have to turn more bowls with cracks! No more discounts for cracked bowls

 

[Richard Coers]

Reminds me of the tongue of a shoe. Too many holes now, but I would have put in a piece of leather and laced it up like a shoe. Could have even put eyelets in it if you'd have asked earlier.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

!8 years ago, I had a piece of curly Black Walnut that had a split in it, I decided to turn it anyway because of the curl in the wood, as normally I would not turn wood with a split in it, after I had turned that piece, I stitched the split with brass wire in a shoelace like cross pattern, there was no problem with the wire afterward, we still have that bowl, It was my first stitched bowl, but not the last one.

 

[Kevin Weir]

!8 years ago, I had a piece of curly Black Walnut that had a split in it, I decided to turn it anyway because of the curl in the wood, as normally I would not turn wood with a split in it, after I had turned that piece, I stitched the split with brass wire in a shoelace like cross pattern, there was no problem with the wire afterward, we still have that bowl, It was my first stitched bowl, but not the last one.
View attachment 37005View attachment 37006

I’m glad you kept that bowl Leo, looks good! I was very careful with my bowls to use compression tenons at every step rather than expansion recesses. This way, the chuck provided a little more insurance that the bowl would not undergo a rapid disassembly.