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Starter Tools(Economy) for a New Turner

Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
315
Likes
1
Location
Lincoln Hills, CA (At the foot of the Sierra Nevad
Website
jerryhallstudio.com
I often get asked by new turners, after they are over the sticker shock of their new shop and lathe, "What tools do I need, for a reasonable cost?" Well, here is my <>$500 recommendation, and it has stood the test of time. What is your list, or recommendations for change in mine?
______________________________________________________
Opinionated list. Of course good alternatives (tools and suppliers) exist, but these will work well for you for around $500 and could well last you a long time (but won't!) I have updated this list based on the feedback in this thread.

Penn State HSS Tool Set at $85 a true bargain: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lxwm1007.html
  • 1/2 bowl gouge (If you buy their individual tools get the 3/8, too or instead)
  • 3/8 spindle gouge
  • 1/8 Parting Tool
  • 1" Skew (I don't like this oval skew. Somewhat hard to sharpen, and less meat. But OK. You might price out individual tools and get the rectangular shape skew, at little or no more cost, and ease the edges on a grinder.)
  • 1" Roughing Gouge
You can upgrade and diversify later, but these will always be useful tools.
Individual tools: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/woodturning-tools.html Good and long steel, fine handles.

Grizzly 4 Jaw Scroll Chuck $99:
http://grizzly.com/products/4-Jaw-Ch...-X-8-TPI/H7820
Take the link to the catalog page for different spindle sizes. This is a copy of the respected Vicmarc 100 and is compatible with Vicmarc jaw sets. I have heard that it takes the Nova jaws also, but can't confirm this.

Woodcraft 8" Slow Speed Grinder $95: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4605
Two very decent Al Oxide wheels included. Later you can upgrade it with the Oneway balancing system and Norton 3X wheels when your originals wear out. But this grinder may well last you for your turning career.

Wolverine Sharpening Jigs: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...s=4605&pcs=fam
  • Grinding Jig: $80
  • Fingernail Jig: $48
Also available from Hartville Tool. Or make your own from one of the many ideas HERE

Diamond "T" Wheel Dresser $15: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...e=details#tabs

Norton 3x Sandpaper:
  • 80g
  • 100g
  • 150g
  • 220g
  • 320g
  • 400g
You can try it in onesies and twosies or buy it in 20 sheet sheathes $66 total and you might as well at:
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11761
Later you can look into various powered sanding disk systems. I make my own with a $40 Harbor Freight close quarters 3/8 drill and 3M Roloc discs with foam and hook and loop fastening and a glue gun. The Harbor Freight drill has the air intake down low, and has run well in dust for near 2 years. See Darrell Feltmate's great tutorial on making sanding pads:
http://aroundthewoods.com/sanding.shtml
Get rolls of hook and loop sandpaper and cut different sizes as needed.

Many essential no-cost tool ideas and projects at Darrell's site:
http://aroundthewoods.com/contents.html

Safety and Dust Control
Face shield and/or polycarbonate glasses or goggles available from suppliers listed above. Dust control minimum: throw-away surgical face mask, washable mask. See post 7 below for fuller discussion. Available from any good hardware or big box store. Or Shield HERE, Dust Mask Choices HERE

Other future items:
  • 1/2" MT2 Drawbar Drill Bit Chuck
  • Different size tool rests
  • Chain saw (Electric is nice in the shop. I like the Ryobi for cheap and powerful from a big box store.)
  • Band saw. 12" minimum resaw height. Good power. 14" throat will do the job, but larger is nice. 3/8" - 3TPI bands. See post 7 below for more comments.
  • Hollowing tools

Don't think you can go wrong on these. Has worked well for me. My $00.02 No charge.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
14
Likes
0
Location
Northern MN. and East TX.
Novice Turner

I have been a woodworker for many years and just started turning about 9 months ago. At present I am using the Rikon Mini lathe from Woodcraft with a few starter tools and chuck from Penn State. I believe turning will be with me for the rest of my life. It is something I am really enjoying and a nice break from conventional woodworking. I am now considering purchasing a full sized lathe and noticed Woodcraft has the Nova with the swiveling headstock on sale. My question is if the Nova is a decent lathe and is the swivel headstock something I should consider. I have been doing a lot of bowl,vase and box turning and thought it would be a lot handier to have the piece you are turning right out where you are not leaning over the top of the lathe to hollow. Sure would like to hear some of the pros and cons of the Nova Brand and swivel headstock. Also I am thinking of getting some type of hollowing tool and at present I have only hollowed with a 3/8 bowl gouge and various scrapers.
 
Joined
May 7, 2004
Messages
315
Likes
1
Location
Lincoln Hills, CA (At the foot of the Sierra Nevad
Website
jerryhallstudio.com
Nova DVR Lathe

Larry, the Nova DVR Lathe is a well respected lathe. I would post your question on the main forum and I am sure that you would get helpful responses from people with direct experience. HERE is one discussion that might help. It compares the Nova to the PM3520. But with the price increase of the PM3520 to around $3500 and the Nova DVR on sale for $1800 they are in different leagues. I would look long and hard at the Jet !642, HERE at $1850 shipped. At maybe less cost to your door. I think it is a heavier, and superior lathe with cast iron legs. But the Nova is a bit more compact if space is an issue. You will be happy with either, in my opinion, in that price range, but I would get the jet, and if I could the 220v 2hp version. But the 110v 1-1/2 hp will do the job. I like the Jet's continuous variable speed by a knob, vs the Nova's buttons, and stepped speed changes. The Nova swivels for larger pieces. The Jet headstock slides to the end for larger pieces. So you would need standing room at the end of the Jet to use that feature.
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
3,540
Likes
15
The usual arguments above for sliding headstocks and strap-on ballast. Best answer is to say that you move the headstock you move the turner, with all that means in shop space commitment. It's a really big one. You swivel the head (half way is a really good place) you stand where you always stand, you don't have to muscle the tailstock out of your way, and the cord always reaches.

As to ballast, both lathes are bolted to something. How heavy that something is or becomes depends on you. What you want in a stand is rigidity and convenience. If you have any woodworking proficiency at all you can design a rigid cabinet-style stand far superior to the iron legs that come with either of the two.

Looks like you're a snowbird. If you're good with your stand design you might be able to carry the DVR (with help) mounted to its top to a warm climate every winter. It's comfortably portable for two men with grips on the board.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
14
Likes
0
Location
Northern MN. and East TX.
The Novice

Jerry and Mike
First I would like to thank you both for taking the time to assist me in my decision. You have both given me information that will directly pertain to my situation. Space is definitely a consideration and most of the turners I know do like the Jet and of course the Powermatic and I will take a closer look at both. The stand I am now using is of my design and has the on board storage and rigidity in which I would prefer to have. Your help will go a long way in my making the Right choice.
Thanks Again
Larry
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
Messages
72
Likes
0
Location
Poughkeepsie, NY
Hi Larry,

Although I do not use the Nova DVR, I do use a swivel head lathe (Poolewood 2000). I really agree with MM's comments regarding conserving space in a limited workspace. I have a friend who uses the DVR and is quite pleased with it. It does not have the weight of my lathe, but seems to be more than sufficient. The most frequent use that I have for swiveling the headstock is when I am turning a hollow form or a bowl with a more closed lip. I have used the Powermatic 3020B, and the Jet 1442. They are really well made lathes. However, having experienced the ease of using a swivel-head lathe, I would not trade it. I believe (not sure) that the Nova DVR also allows you to adjust the height of the lathe. I know that the feature is not available for the Jet. The range for adjusting height for the Powermatic 3020A is not as great as my lathe. Check it out before you buy. Good luck,

Matt
 
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
173
Likes
0
Location
CarmelHighlands, California
I often get asked by new turners, after they are over the sticker shock of their new shop and lathe, "What tools do I need, for a reasonable cost?" Well, here is my <>$500 recommendation, and it has stood the test of time. What is your list, or recommendations for change in mine?
______________________________________________________
Opinionated list. Of course good alternatives (tools and suppliers) exist, but these will work well for you for around $500 and could well last you a long time (but won't!)

Penn State HSS Tool Set at $85 a true bargain: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lxwm1007.html
  • 1/2 bowl gouge
  • 3/8 spindle gouge
  • 1/8 Parting Tool
  • 1" Skew (I don't like this oval skew. Somewhat hard to sharpen, and less meat. But OK. You might price out individual tools and get the rectangular shape skew, at little or no more cost, and ease the edges on a grinder.)
  • 1" Roughing Gouge
You can upgrade and diversify later, but these will always be useful tools.
Individual tools: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/woodturning-tools.html Good and long steel, fine handles.

Grizzly 4 Jaw Scroll Chuck $99:
http://grizzly.com/products/4-Jaw-Ch...-X-8-TPI/H7820
Take the link to the catalog page for different spindle sizes. This is a copy of the respected Vicmarc 100 and is compatible with Vicmarc jaw sets. I have heard that it takes the Nova jaws also, but can't confirm this.

Woodcraft 8" Slow Speed Grinder $95: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4605
Two very decent Al Oxide wheels included. Later you can upgrade it with the Oneway balancing system and Norton 3X wheels when your originals wear out. But this grinder may well last you for your turning career.

Wolverine Sharpening Jigs: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...s=4605&pcs=fam
  • Grinding Jig: $80
  • Fingernail Jig: $48
Also available from Hartville Tool. Or make your own from one of the many ideas HERE

Diamond "T" Wheel Dresser $15: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...e=details#tabs

Norton 3x Sandpaper:
  • 80g
  • 100g
  • 150g
  • 220g
  • 320g
  • 400g
You can try it in onesies and twosies or buy it in 20 sheet sheathes $66 total and you might as well at:
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11761
Later you can look into various powered sanding disk systems. I make my own with a $40 Harbor Freight close quarters 3/8 drill and 3M Roloc discs with foam and hook and loop fastening and a glue gun. The Harbor Freight drill has the air intake down low, and has run well in dust for near 2 years. See Darrell Feltmate's great tutorial on making sanding pads:
http://aroundthewoods.com/sanding.shtml
Get rolls of hook and loop sandpaper and cut different sizes as needed.

Many essential no-cost tool ideas and projects at Darrell's site:
http://aroundthewoods.com/contents.html

Other future items:
  • 1/2" MT2 Drawbar Drill Bit Chuck
  • Different size tool rests
  • Chain saw (Electric is nice in the shop. I like the Ryobi for cheap and powerful from a big box store.)
  • Band saw. 12" minimum resaw height. Good power. 14" throat will do the job, but larger is nice. 3/8" - 3TPI bands.
  • Hollowing tools

Don't think you can go wrong on these. Has worked well for me. My $00.02 No charge.


This all seems pretty reasonable though I would add to the list a smaller bowl gauge. Don't buy any tools that are not HSS.

The band saw is important. You need one that has an extension available that will raise the head. Learn to use the band saw safely. It is one of the most dangerous tools any of us have. Get help from someone if you need help. Perhaps there is a group in your area.

There's no mention of face shields and dust control. This is very important. Ideally, in addition to having a regular dust collector, a pressurized full mask with the filter system behind one on a belt is worth having, granted, they are not inexpensive. The dust is not healthy and the grit that comes off a grinding wheel is very unhealthy as it remains in one's lungs. Some woods are more dangerous than others.

Malcolm Smith.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
14
Likes
0
Location
Northern MN. and East TX.
The Novice

Hi Matt
Thanks for your input! I have been reading all the posts of 2005 regarding the DVR and PM pros and cons. Thanks to you fellows I am getting a much clearer picture of the best choice for me. I agree with your thinking on the swivel head as my shop in Texas is only 12X16 so space is a real issue.I have only been turning for a little less than a year but long enough to see the value of a swivel head or sliding head lathe. I am getting tired of bending over the top of my lathe to do hollowing through a small opening. At the present time I am leaning towards the Nova for the reasons Mike stated, I like the idea of not having to go to the end of the lathe to work simply for the space consideration. Also the portability would be a nice feature as I am currently hauling my Rikon back and forth from Minnesota to Texas. Oh and by the way Malcolm I purchased the Penn State tools and their Barracuda chuck.
Many thanks to all of you
Larry
 
Last edited:

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
Since I've had both swiveling and sliding heads I'll offer my opinion. The swiveling head does not take up any more space but offsets the turning from the center of the lathe and can set up vibration.
Off set heads have to be aligned perfectly when you go back to the zero position. This can sometimes be a problem.
The tool rest doesn't always reach where you need to be when the head is offset. On some lathes this leads to excessive overhang of the tool rest banjo and you set up vibration that shows up in the cuts.
Belt changes can sometimes be a problem with swiveling head so changing speeds can be a problem.

Sliding head. It takes more room because you have stand on the end. Because of this you have more room and freedom to work the piece.
The tool rest is in the normal position so it's stronger.
You can't use the tailstock if you go all the way to the end.
It always stays aligned on the center but just like the swiveling head it's easy to forget to lock it down.
On large lathes sliding the headstock is a little difficult.
If you have your dust collector or lights fixed they won't be over the sliding head.

Having owned both I prefer the sliding headstock but I would like to have both. Consequently I have my eye on the Robust 16" lathe but probably won't give up my powermatic.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
14
Likes
0
Location
Northern MN. and East TX.
John thank you very much for your thoughts. I think you bring up some very valid points I had not thought about. Nothing is easy especially when you haven't had first hand experience. Also I have not looked at the Robust brand of lathe and will do so. Your comments on off setting the weight and setting up vibration makes sense. Setting of the tool rest where you need it is another point I hadn't thought of. I think a lot more evaluating is in order.
Thanks again to all.
Larry
 
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