Segmented turning question

[Tim Goodyear]

I’ve been watching some videos of segmented turning.
I’ve noticed that a lot of guys are using some sort of “black paper” between each segment in which looks really sharp.
What is this paper type material?

 

[GRJensen]

Haven't seen anyone using paper, but I use veneer. On one project, I died maple veneer black using General Finishes Ebony dye stain.

 

[Ben Grefe]

I’m guessing you’re referring to Wood By Toth. I think I read in one of his YouTube video comments that the material is ebony veneer. He makes all kinds of projects with the material, not just turnings.

 

[Tim Goodyear]

I’m guessing you’re referring to Wood By Toth. I think I read in one of his YouTube video comments that the material is ebony veneer. He makes all kinds of projects with the material, not just turnings.

Yes, Wood by Toth, thank you

 

[Robert D Evans]

Haven't seen anyone using paper, but I use veneer. On one project, I died maple veneer black using General Finishes Ebony dye stain.

That would be a lot cheaper than using whole sheets of ebony. The problem I see comes when trying to line up the rings for glueing since you have a sheet of veneer between them. It makes it a little tricky lining everything up. I don't think you could glue the veneer on before cutting the segments because you would probably loose the veneer while sanding the rings flush. I'm still learning segmentology. Takes a lot of thinking and talking to one's self.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Just putting in a plug for a sister club and forum:

https://segmentedwoodturners.org/wppaspec/oc1/cv0/ab1/pt20

 

[Richard Coers]

I tried color construction paper ONCE! It's worse than brown packing paper for strength. Almost instantly separated.

 

[David Shombert]

I've used a lot of veneer in my segmented turnings, all of it purchased from Constantine's in Florida. Don't know if they're still in business or not. The black comes in two different thicknesses and I usually preferred the thinner of the two because it was easier to cut and handle. You can see some photos of its use on my website: www.woodspunworkshop.com. Look in the "Segmented Work" section of the Gallery.

 

[john lucas]

I tried paper many years ago since I do a lot of paper joints to separate later. I wondered how it would work for segmented piece. It doesn't. way too weak. If you want to try paper use water color paper. It's much stronger than construction paper but probably hard to find in black. Veneer is your best bet.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

That would be a lot cheaper than using whole sheets of ebony. The problem I see comes when trying to line up the rings for glueing since you have a sheet of veneer between them. It makes it a little tricky lining everything up. I don't think you could glue the veneer on before cutting the segments because you would probably loose the veneer while sanding the rings flush. I'm still learning segmentology. Takes a lot of thinking and talking to one's self.

I have done it successfully on staved segmented work (see the staved urn as my profile picture) the key to success is getting the segments cut accurately so no trimming is necessary then glue on the contrasting wood (the contrasting wood must be planed parallel to maintain the accuracy), then when each segment has a contrasting wood glued on glue all the segments at once.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Any contrasting colored wood will make the design "POP", I have used sheets of various veneers or you can cut your own veneer on a table saw You can also use Formica top materials if you sand both sides to provide a surface that the glue can hold onto. I have also used thin sheets of Corian on several segmented pieces I crafted out of Corian materials..

 

[John King]

To achieve proper grain orientation the veneer should be cut into segments and glued together as with any other ring in the piece. It's cost effective use of the veneer and maintains grain alignment with adjacent rings. - John

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

To achieve proper grain orientation the veneer should be cut into segments and glued together as with any other ring in the piece. It's cost effective use of the veneer and maintains grain alignment with adjacent rings. - John

I assume you are talking about the side grain portion of ring segments, if so a simpler method would be to laminate the contrast wood on to the major strip before the segments are cut. The other side of the problem is the end grain joints of the segments in order to have grain orientation would need to be cross grain slices. I have never done what you are suggesting on segmented rings, but I did do it for Celtic cross glue ups. The procedure is to prepare equal size square blocks of both the primary wood and the contrast wood, then on the miter saw cut the cut the contrast wood to the angle and proceed to cut off slices the thickness of the saw blade, which will look like a parallelogram.