Save your wood scraps for segmented turning

[georgetroy]

The more I work in the shop, because of cold weather the more my scraps build up. I have boards that I rip and slice for segmentation, but I also slice some of the limb logs I use for special effects. All segmented turning does not have to be large and feature exotics. I have lots of drawings for small vases and bowls. If you want to do segmented turning or need an idea for small salad bowls, here is a couple. I make these in pairs of two or four. Use your favorite ,safe for food finish on these. This in not an attempt to discuss all phases of segmenting, just a start to recyle and use what you have.

 

[jimbob91577]

How do you determine your segment width?

I get how you determine your length, and if you are using 3/4" stock then all ring thicknesses will be 3/4" - but the width of the stock before you cut your segments, how do you determine how wide to go?

 

[georgetroy]

I get how you determine your length, and if you are using 3/4" stock then all ring thicknesses will be 3/4" - but the width of the stock before you cut your segments, how do you determine how wide to go?

I have placed the width of the strip on the left of the bowls. The width must be wide enought so that the bowl out line will fit inside of it. You can make them either bigger or larger than what I have shown. The width will allow for extra material.

 

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

George, for years I struggled with keeping track of all my scraps. So often, I would need a small strip of this or that and I'd have no idea where to find it. Most of the time, I'm sure I had the right piece somewhere, but it would be hidden in a bucket or box along with all kinds of other species. So most of the time I would end up cutting what I needed from a bigger board (and generating more scrap). A few weeks ago, I finally organized my scrap with the system shown here. 8" sonotubes, about 2 foot long, keep everything in their place and easy to find.

 

[chipturner]

Thanks George, for your great shapes and idea. :cool2:


Ray

 

[jimbob91577]

Sorry

I didn't mean for the misunderstanding - I had noticed that you put the segment width on your diagram - what I was wondering was: is there a mathmatical formula you use to determine the width of said segment, or, like you said, is it just wide enought to fit the bowl line?

The reason I ask is this is an area that I am considering getting into.

A couple more questions - should one consider grain orientation when planning a segmented turning or does it matter?

And finally - in the example of the salad bowls where the solid piece that will become the base of the bowl meets the first ring, will there be a tendency for some of the glue joints, where the grain in the ring is running perpendicular to the grain of the solid bowl bottom, to come appart?

 

[georgetroy]

I didn't mean for the misunderstanding - I had noticed that you put the segment width on your diagram - what I was wondering was: is there a mathmatical formula you use to determine the width of said segment, or, like you said, is it just wide enought to fit the bowl line?

The reason I ask is this is an area that I am considering getting into.

A couple more questions - should one consider grain orientation when planning a segmented turning or does it matter?

And finally - in the example of the salad bowls where the solid piece that will become the base of the bowl meets the first ring, will there be a tendency for some of the glue joints, where the grain in the ring is running perpendicular to the grain of the solid bowl bottom, to come appart?

Yes the segment is wide enough to fit the bowl. As you do more you can reduce the width needed to fit through the cut line. You can also work inside out to get it close to the plan or make patterns.

Grain orientation is horizontal for flat segments. You can add features at the high or low curve. Do the easy stuff first, then you can add the emblishments.

For small bowls like the salad bowl you want a slow curve in the bottom and the solid pieces should not be a problem due to the smaller diameter. Keep it simple for the salad bowls, one hardwood species like walnut, hard maple, cherry, mesquite, pecan, myrtlewood, and osage orange will work good. These little bowls are meant to be functional for frequent use.

After you do enough of these little guys you can just forget the plan, by using a glue block, 4" solid base and 3 rings of 5,6,7" diameter; and fit your curves as you go. Your segments width on these can range from 1 1/4 - 1 1/2. Do one for your trial and error fitting, then make several, after all you are working from scraps and found wood.

 

[massmans]

great info.

Up to know I have never contemplated making anything bigger than 12" wide. I have a Jet 1236 and it does well with 12" blanks even some out of balance. But when I have tried to turn something bigger by going outboard I always have problems even with the 200 lbs of sand.

Do you think I could segment a 15-16" bowl and use a glue block to get to a bigger size? The segments should make everything close to in balance so that should cut down on the lathe wanting to walk.

Has anyone with a smaller lathe done something like this to get to bigger bowls before they buy the mustard monster.


Thanks,
Steve Massman