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Sanding Rig Recommendations??

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I was leaning towards the Sorby Sandmaster, but was wondering if you guys that have done many many more bowls than I might have a recommendation.

I'm not averse to an electric or air powered unit.

All input is appreciated.
 
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In my opinion, powered sanding is much easier, faster, and more effective than manual sanding with the "sandpaper on a stick" approach of the Sandmaster or similar tools. I have the Monster Tools version of that sander, and although it works as advertised, I seldom use it any more. Nowadays, I use both a Harbor Freight right-angle drill and/or a Grex pneumatic ROS, depending on the piece. As a warning, the Harbor Freight drills are hit or miss. Mine has worked great for over a year, but I know of other turners with the same model who've had the drill die in less than a month. Also, if you go pneumatic, you need to have a compressor that can keep up with it. (I have a "true" 5hp compressor with a 20 cfm pump, so it does nicely.)
 

odie

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I wasn't sure what the Sorby Sandmaster was, so I looked it up. OK, I have one of these tools made by another manufacturer.......haven't used it for years, but it does work.

In my search, I found this video of the Sorby Sandmaster:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsHBHpiKEKE

Powered sanding is the best advice you will get......there really isn't any better way to do it......unless you've got gobs of time on your hands! :D

Since the late 1980's I've been using a 0-2500rpm Sioux angle drill, and I've added a second Sioux angle drill that's 0-1300rpm about 3yrs ago. The 2500rpm drill has seen extensive use for 20yrs now......never needed servicing yet......but, the trigger and reversing switches both are a little sticky at times. These are expensive drills, but if you've got the money to buy them, they will last you many years.

edit: This post continued below.....

.
 
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odie

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(Edit: Pardon me, but I accidentally hit the "submit reply" button. Grrrrr!)

I'm using mostly power-lock sanding discs, but have a small selection of Velcro discs as well.

The PL discs, as well as hand held sandpaper is normally done at about 3-400 rpm. (Those with larger than 16" capacity lathes, may go slower than I do.) I normally don't take disc sanding past 180, or 220gt, and finish out with strips of hand held sandpaper up to about 600gt (depending on the species). Most everything gets at least 400gt.

I also have the Grex random orbital sander, and this sander is a great addition to your sanding arsenal! I use the Grex, mainly for very fine sanding, mostly 240gt, and above.....usually at 320 or 400. The Grex random orbit sander isn't always needed.....but, when you gotta have it, there is no better way to remove stubborn faint sanding marks left by static hand-held sandpaper on spinning bowls. The Grex is done at a very slow rpm.....maybe 100, or so......could be less, as I never checked......but, VERY SLOW.

Here's a picture of my 2500rpm Sioux......sorry, but don't have pics of the 1300rpm Sioux, or the Grex......(I should do that when I get one of those round tuits!)

ooc
 

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Steve Worcester

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Since the late 1980's I've been using a 0-2500rpm Sioux angle drill, and I've added a second Sioux angle drill that's 0-1300rpm about 3yrs ago. The 2500rpm drill has seen extensive use for 20yrs now......never needed servicing yet......but, the trigger and reversing switches both are a little sticky at times. These are expensive drills, but if you've got the money to buy them, they will last you many years.
.

I have had my old Sioux for about 10 years and blow it out with an air gun "fairly" religiously. Started sounding grindy so I sent it out to a local Sioux repair guy to get cleaned up, $40 works like new.
 

Steve Worcester

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I have used and sold passive sanders, and I am just not a big fan. Gimme a right angle drill, even if from Pep Boys or Harbor Freight, a descent pad and some good hook and loop disks, and it works far better, at least far faster.

The problem with passive sanding is you have to be in a sweet spot with the rig and the bowl to get the pad to spin with any consistency. Then in the center of a bowl (or form), since it is speed dependent on surface feet/minute, it spins real slow and on the edges, much faster.

Even with power sanding, there's a learning curve, just shorter than with passive.
 

john lucas

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I tried the passive sanders. Didn't like them. I've been using a standard Dewalt 3/8" variable speed drill for quite a while now. I figured when it burned up I would buy an angled drill. It hasn't so I keep on slugging away.
 

odie

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I have had my old Sioux for about 10 years and blow it out with an air gun "fairly" religiously. Started sounding grindy so I sent it out to a local Sioux repair guy to get cleaned up, $40 works like new.

Hi Steve......

Noted. I try to air out my Sioux angle drills every time I use them, but sometimes forget. Anything like that with the internals exposed should be aired out often.

Eventually, I'll probably have to service the old Sioux, but it's not feeling grindy yet. By "grindy", do you mean the rotation isn't smooth? I've thought about oiling the trigger and reversing switch, but know that some plastics become brittle when exposed to oil.......anyone know if the older Sioux drills can take oil?

ooc
 

odie

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I tried the passive sanders. Didn't like them. I've been using a standard Dewalt 3/8" variable speed drill for quite a while now. I figured when it burned up I would buy an angled drill. It hasn't so I keep on slugging away.


Hiya John......

If you haven't been using an "angled" drill, you really should give one a try. You can get into hard to reach places much easier with one.

The Harbor Freight one is less than fifty bucks shipped, and if you get a good one, it's probably a great/cheap way to find out the advantages.

click:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92956

Way back in the mid 1980's, I used a standard drill like the one you're using......I'd never go back to that unless there were no other choice! ;)

Later,

ooc
 

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If you are still thinking of a non-powered unit, have a look at the VERMEC unit, made in Australia. ( check their web site) Enzo makes them using S/S components with TS (Tim Skilton) sanding pads (that are interchangeable)

No relationship to either manufacturer, it is just a superbly made tool if you are wanting to use one.
I hope this helps.
Glenn
 
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If you haven't been using an "angled" drill, you really should give one a try. You can get into hard to reach places much easier with one.

The Harbor Freight one is less than fifty bucks shipped, and if you get a good one, it's probably a great/cheap way to find out the advantages.

click:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92956

Way back in the mid 1980's, I used a standard drill like the one you're using......I'd never go back to that unless there were no other choice! ;)

Later,

ooc[/QUOTE]
I bought one of those angled HF ones a couple of years ago, and it seemed (haven't checjked this tho)heavier than the $12 3/8 drill on sale HF. Maybe it's harder on my arthritic thumb bases given the wight distribution. I haven't had problems reaching areas in the bowls that I do with the straight kind. I have bought several of the cheap straight kind. They fail at the trigger I have found in my hands. Seem to last a year or 2 (I turn alot). Gretch
 
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Thanks for all the replies folks!

We have 2 Harbor Freights here in town and I drive around alot for my job, so I think I'll just stop in and grab a drill today.

I reckon I'll check out Steve's website for supplies to go with it.


Thanks again, great information for a newb such as myself.
 
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Thanks for all the replies folks!

We have 2 Harbor Freights here in town and I drive around alot for my job, so I think I'll just stop in and grab a drill today.

I reckon I'll check out Steve's website for supplies to go with it.


Thanks again, great information for a newb such as myself.

At least every other month on sale for $29.99. Buy the 2 year warranty for $10 bucks. My first one went out in less than a year, it's free replacement has gone for 2 years and still sounds good.
 
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Sanding

Here's another passive sander that is very well made: www.thesandingglove.com. Pg. 16 in the downloadable catalog. It's a little pricey in my mind, but it might become your favorite tool!:D
 

Steve Worcester

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...Eventually, I'll probably have to service the old Sioux, but it's not feeling grindy yet. By "grindy", do you mean the rotation isn't smooth? I've thought about oiling the trigger and reversing switch, but know that some plastics become brittle when exposed to oil.......anyone know if the older Sioux drills can take oil?

ooc

Grindy in the way it sounds. I thought it needed new brushes, but they were fine, just packed with sawdust.
 
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The Sanding solution

Here's another passive sander that is very well made: www.thesandingglove.com. Pg. 16 in the downloadable catalog. It's a little pricey in my mind, but it might become your favorite tool!:D

I was turned on to this pricy little sander by a friend who is a Professional wood turning artist. I have used it & know at least 3 or 4 others who have it.
They all love it, as do I. If you do get one be sure to get a soft pad for sanding with any grit 220 or above,it really makes a difference on finer grits.
 
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passive system

Could anyone elaborate on how to use them- I have a sorby, and every now and then get it out to use it and wonder why I bought it. It stops more often than it goes. I just don't know how to use it, Gretch
 
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Could anyone elaborate on how to use them- I have a sorby, and every now and then get it out to use it and wonder why I bought it. It stops more often than it goes. I just don't know how to use it, Gretch

Gretch,

If you are using the Sorby inertial sander, you have to put a drop of oil on each side of the post, next to the bearings, according to the instructions that came with the tool. It is probably stopping because of the dust that accumulates from use. The version of the tool that Bruce Hover sells (The Sanding Glove) doesn't require any oil before each use. Secondly, once you get to 220 grit, reverse directions that your lathe spins with each new grit that you use. I got that tip from Bruce. Since I have been using it, all sanding scratches -----> gone! I hope this is helpful,

Matt
 
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I tried the passive sanders. Didn't like them. I've been using a standard Dewalt 3/8" variable speed drill for quite a while now. I figured when it burned up I would buy an angled drill. It hasn't so I keep on slugging away.

I've used that same drill as a dedicated sander for 8 years now and it still keeps going strong.
 
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Hi Steve......

Noted. I try to air out my Sioux angle drills every time I use them, but sometimes forget. Anything like that with the internals exposed should be aired out often.

Eventually, I'll probably have to service the old Sioux, but it's not feeling grindy yet. By "grindy", do you mean the rotation isn't smooth? I've thought about oiling the trigger and reversing switch, but know that some plastics become brittle when exposed to oil.......anyone know if the older Sioux drills can take oil?

ooc


Hi Odie,
I repair Cleco, Ingersoll Rand and many more brands of air tools, for a major appliance manufacture here in the U.S.
All air tools should have two to three drops of oil put in them before use. Use a light weight non detergent oil. Most stores like Lowes and Home Depot carry air tool oil, usually in the tool section near their air tool display. You may be able to get a tune up kit for your Sioux drill. It is very easy to do but the parts are small.

GA Darling
 

odie

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Hi Odie,
I repair Cleco, Ingersoll Rand and many more brands of air tools, for a major appliance manufacture here in the U.S.
All air tools should have two to three drops of oil put in them before use. Use a light weight non detergent oil. Most stores like Lowes and Home Depot carry air tool oil, usually in the tool section near their air tool display. You may be able to get a tune up kit for your Sioux drill. It is very easy to do but the parts are small.

GA Darling

Thanks, GA Darling......

.....but, the Sioux is an electric drill.

ooc

PS: Of those tools of mine that are air-powered, like the Grex, I do exactly as you suggest, but am using Marvel Mystery Oil for air tool lubrication.
 
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oil

Gretch,

If you are using the Sorby inertial sander, you have to put a drop of oil on each side of the post, next to the bearings, according to the instructions that came with the tool. It is probably stopping because of the dust that accumulates from use. The version of the tool that Bruce Hover sells (The Sanding Glove) doesn't require any oil before each use. Secondly, once you get to 220 grit, reverse directions that your lathe spins with each new grit that you use. I got that tip from Bruce. Since I have been using it, all sanding scratches -----> gone! I hope this is helpful,

Matt

I do use oil before use. I'll have to wait :(til after May 18 when I get my broadband installed for looking at videos. -unless I sneak a peak at work, but not due to work for another week (retired-working [parttime) Thanks, Gretch
 

odie

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I'm in the middle of a photo session for 6 new bowls, and thought I'd cash in that "round tuit" and get these photos posted in this thread.

My passive sander is a "no name", so I'm not sure what brand it is. Like I said, I tried it, and came to the conclusion that it is in second place when compared to powered sanders.

As I said previously, the Grex is a great addition to a my sanding capabilities. If you'll notice, I've modified one of the 2" pads to have a longer stem. This has proven useful for certain applications up underneath inward slanting bowl rims. If I could change the Grex, I'd go with electric power. Seems like the oil used for lubrication invariably ends up on your work, if you don't pay strict attention to it.

The third picture shows both my Sioux sanders. I'm not convinced the 0-1300rpm sander is better than the 0-2500rpm sander. Because there is a variable speed control on the latter, it would seem to have more versatility than the 0-1300.........

ooc
 

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Some people never learn Odie. If you use high speed sanding device like that pneumatic, you can't get a good surface because of the heat. ;)

My answer, still cheap, easier on the arm than any drill motor and reaches everywhere easily, is the flex shaft. Doesn't make loud, unpleasant noises, either, since it has an induction motor. Use it like a rotary abrasive scraper, supported on the toolrest.
 

odie

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Some people never learn Odie. If you use high speed sanding device like that pneumatic, you can't get a good surface because of the heat. ;)

My answer, still cheap, easier on the arm than any drill motor and reaches everywhere easily, is the flex shaft. Doesn't make loud, unpleasant noises, either, since it has an induction motor. Use it like a rotary abrasive scraper, supported on the toolrest.

Yes, very true, MM.......

There is a learning curve to properly use higher speeds in sanding. There is a time to use it, and there is a time to avoid it. Basically, it's best to just "keep it moving". For a novice, who is still getting deep tear-out, this is problematic at best, because it's tempting to sand hard and fast on the tear-out, which nearly always results in burning the wood. Sometimes the wood is burnt, but isn't really detectable until one puts a finish on his bowl.......and THERE it is!!!!! About the only thing you can do, at that point, is say a angry epithet, and LEARN from it.

I'm just like everyone else who has gone through the early stages of learning how to make a bowl......I've burned a bunch of bowls, made adjustments in my tool techniques, as well as sanding techniques and applications.

I started out using a Makita electric drill, similar to what John Lucas is using. Then I went through a stage of using all pneumatic tools......high speed die grinders, as well as variable speed straight and in-line pneumatic drills. The pneumatics will work ok, but I sure got tired of oil spitting on my work, or hands, which ended up on my work.

When I finally bought my first Sioux angle drill, that one "stuck on me"!

If I'm not mistaken, I bought the passive sander in the early 1990's.......after I had already gone through a progression of sanding techniques. It was easy to see the passive sander didn't have much value to me.......BUT, my advice is worth exactly what you paid for it!

I believe Ed Moulthrop was using a flex shaft, like you are MM......but, on a very large scale. I can understand how you would really like it because of the light weight......does make some sense.......and, on the same note, I am fully aware there are some excellent turners that use a standard electric drill to to their sanding, too.....

I must stress, however, that whatever I say in this thread, or this entire forum for that matter, is strictly my OPINION. I am telling it as I see it through MY eyes, and am not attempting to say what I've evolved to is what everyone should evolve to......or even think is a good way of doing things. I feel comfortable doing things the way I have learned to do them, and I acknowledge that I may not be seeing things on the same plane as everyone, or even anyone else does........:D

ooc
 

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Hi MM could you elaberate on the flexshaft what kind? What do you use for pads? I have a dremmel flexshaft for carving but I can't see any way to use it for sanding a bowl,
 
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I was tweaking the speed = heat believers, Odie. I know better, as do you.

Mark, It's a simple 1725 induction-run motor with a flex shaft like this one http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/fullpres.exe?PARTNUM=116-753&search=Flex Shaft&smode=&showsingle= which is available other places. Just stay away from sleeve bearings, as they require lube and collect dust. It's also available as a "system" here http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/fullpres.exe?PARTNUM=114-971&search=Flex Shaft&smode=&showsingle= or the "Guinevere" sold elsewhere, both at an outrageous price. I like the hard-back Power Locks for most use. They also come in a flex edge. Soft velcro types are also fine, though you don't want to have anything coarser than 120 in the 3-inch size. Too much grab to use them casually supported like I prefer. Couple of slow passes with a 2" 150 after the gouge and I move right up the grits. http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view&current=150Sand-1.flv

My rig in the far right waiting for me to finish the inside cut on a bowl. Outside is done to 320 with the big 3" soft disk already. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/P3140057.jpg
 
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Thanks much MM I think I'll give that a try.I can't really see how you attached it to the motor could I trouble you for 1 more link.:cool2:
P.S. Nice joinery on your stand.
 
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One of those chucks that fit on a 1/2 motor shaft. That way I can use the motor with sanding mops, bowl buffs and such as well as the flex shaft. Woodworkers Supply is where I got it. Twenty bucks.
 
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Based on some previous posts, I was able to put together a sytem like Michael's, as follows:

Flexible Shaft - garretwade.com, $31.80
1725 rpm motor - craigslist, $20.00
work arbor - woodcraft, $5.99
chuck for arbor, Harbor Freight, $5.99

Do NOT buy the arbor chuck from Woodcraft for $19.99. It is very poorly made.

Much cheaper than buying a "system"!

John
 
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FWIW At a bowl turning demo Richard Raffan power sanded up to about 220 then did a couple of grits with an inertia sander. He reckoned the finish from the last grit was about = to two grits higher.
 
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