Powermatic 3520 Tips, Reviews, Sources, Links

[Jerry Hall]

Powermatic PM3520 Tips, Reviews, Sources, Links

All PM3520 Tips have been migrated to http://mustardmonster.weebly.com/ because this post was getting long and unwieldy to read and maintain. Email me any broken links and suggestions for additions or changes for the better.

I have deleted all the links in this post because they were incomplete as the Mustard Monster site has evolved.

 

[Jeff Jilg]

Looks like Jerry fixed the links. I'm kinda surprised that my ccsi.com website is still there since I haven't had an account with them for over a year.

 

[TomNeb]

3520B Current Draw

I've been poking around in all this great info but I haven't run across the current draw on the lathe. I'll have to run a new 220v service and I'm trying to figure how how large the circuit and drop cord need to be.

Any ideas?

thanks!

 

[Jerry Hall]

3520 Power Requirements

Some PM3520 owners report a 15amp 220V single phase circuit is adequate with the breaker tripping more quickly in the case of a problem. Others feel a 20amp circuit gives a good margin. See this link:
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/archives_turning.pl?read=35694

I use a dedicated 20amp, single phase, 220V circuit (12 gauge 3 wire cable) to an outlet near the lathe. I connected a 12 foot 12 gauge cord with plug to the pigtail on the lathe (220v single phase only for the supplied pigtail - see manual.) Many owners unplug the cord when the lathe is not in use for an extended period. I turn off the circuit breaker from inside the shop. This has worked fine and complies with the motor plate and the following from the manual. Also see link in first post to the 3520b manual and go to pages 12 and 13 for details and wire size table.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Lathe Won't Start? - Check Remote Switch First

I finally got around to installing the remote switch after a year and a half a few weeks ago. In the midst of turning an exciting hollow form, green, thin walls, drying fast and the mustard monster wouldn't start. Recycled power, waited, reset back panel, blew any dust out. No luck. Packed my turning with damp shavings to buy time.

For the electrically challenged such as myself I thought the following would be of interest:

On advice of tech support, and as a first step in diagnosis, I bypassed the remote switch as follows:
1. Unplug lathe from power!
2. Open remote switch box.
3. Mark terminals connecting white and black wires with Sharpie
4. Jumper (join) black and white wires (I used a clipped finish nail inserted into each)
5. Close up switch box
6. Power up and test with main switch.

We have rotation! PM will be sending me a new switch even tho I am out of warrantee. Nice support, thanks PM!

 

[john lucas]

I've had troubles with my remote switch one time. It took a second to figure out what it was. I was in the middle of a big job.

 

[W.C. Turner]

1-1/4" X 8 Tap

Hi,

Has anybody bought a 1-1/4 X 8 Tap from the JTS link, or from any other source? I've been interested in one for quite sometime, but, price slowed me down.

Thanks,
W.C.

 

[john lucas]

My Powermatic 3520 remote switch died this weekend. It had acted up several time in the past. I don't hardly ever use it so I was a little hacked. Fortunately it was an easy repair. Woodcraft also sells a remote switch that appears to be very similar to this so maybe this will save someone some time.

Take the box apart and take the switch out. You'll have to push the little plastic latches on the ends of the switch toward the switch and at the same time push the switch out. That's by far the hardest part of the repair.

The switch is held together buy two plastic spring latches located on the sides of the switch. Pry these out and seperate the switch housing. There is a rubber dust cover. Pull this out. clean it off. It apparently doesn't work all that well because my switch was pretty dirty.

There are two plastic pins that push on the rocker arms. Don't lose these they are just floating in some holes. Pull the metal rocker arms out and clean them off. It only takes a very small amount of dust to keep this style of switch from working.

put them back in, correct side up. Now put the rubber dust cover back in. Then put the top part of the switch back on and snap the plastic springs over their clips. Put the switch back in its box and put the box back together. Not a difficult repair at all.

 

[alamocdc]

My Powermatic 3520 remote switch died this weekend. It had acted up several time in the past. I don't hardly ever use it so I was a little hacked. Fortunately it was an easy repair. Woodcraft also sells a remote switch that appears to be very similar to this so maybe this will save someone some time.

Take the box apart and take the switch out. You'll have to push the little plastic latches on the ends of the switch toward the switch and at the same time push the switch out. That's by far the hardest part of the repair.

The switch is held together buy two plastic spring latches located on the sides of the switch. Pry these out and seperate the switch housing. There is a rubber dust cover. Pull this out. clean it off. It apparently doesn't work all that well because my switch was pretty dirty.

There are two plastic pins that push on the rocker arms. Don't lose these they are just floating in some holes. Pull the metal rocker arms out and clean them off. It only takes a very small amount of dust to keep this style of switch from working.

put them back in, correct side up. Now put the rubber dust cover back in. Then put the top part of the switch back on and snap the plastic springs over their clips. Put the switch back in its box and put the box back together. Not a difficult repair at all.

This sounds exactly like the problem I have w/my band saw switch. I've had to "clean" it less often since I started using a bit of silicone grease to "seal" the rubber gasket to the box.

 

[alamocdc]

Some PM3520 owners report a 15amp 220V single phase circuit is adequate with the breaker tripping more quickly in the case of a problem. Others feel a 20amp circuit gives a good margin. See this link:
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/archives_turning.pl?read=35694

I use a dedicated 20amp, single phase, 220V circuit (12 gauge 3 wire cable) to an outlet near the lathe. I connected a 12 foot 12 gauge cord with plug to the pigtail on the lathe (220v single phase only for the supplied pigtail - see manual.) Many owners unplug the cord when the lathe is not in use for an extended period. I turn off the circuit breaker from inside the shop. This has worked fine and complies with the motor plate and the following from the manual. Also see link in first post to the 3520b manual and go to pages 12 and 13 for details and wire size table.

My 3520B hasn't arrived yet, but my shop was pre-wired for a 220v welder. I believe it is on a 20 amp breaker so this should be sufficient, right?

 

[Jerry Hall]

20 amp breaker works fine for me. The only real issue is to size your wire for the length of run per the table in the manual, but 12 gauge should get you a long way. Of course if you use 14 gauge you will want to downsize the breaker to 15amp.

 

[Jerry Hall]

3520B Delivery Pictures

Here are some pictures of the recent delivery of a new Mustard Monster at a club member's shop. Of course not everyone has a tractor with a fork lift, which made delivery to the shop and set up a piece of cake.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jerhall95945/3520BDelivery

Thought this might be of interest for those planning to take delivery.

 

[ronk123]

New PM 3520B and delivery

Thanks to Jerry for posting the pictures! The total weight of the PM and packing materials was under 700 lbs and I was impressed by the packing. Since it was in pieces and packed very well, I could have opened the box and taken out the pieces and carried them to the garage. The heaviest of course was the bed and head stock, however, they could have been slid apart also. Possibly the heaviest was the bed at around 100 lbs. I purchased it though the Tool Nut after finding a package price from another company which by itself was pretty good (3520B, remote, bed extension, bowl tool rest, CD)saving about $300 off list. Shipping was direct from WMH via carrier and since I didn't need the lift gate, the shipping was free and it took about a week to arrive (CA). Of course if you don't want to pay for the lift then just open the box on the truck and take it apart! The tractor/trailer did have a lift gate but I didn't need it.

 

[JJaworowic]

Hi,

Has anybody bought a 1-1/4 X 8 Tap from the JTS link, or from any other source? I've been interested in one for quite sometime, but, price slowed me down.

Thanks,
W.C.

I have purchased a tap and die in that size from McMaster-Carr. (www.mcmaster.com.) for about $35.00 each

 

[Bill Siler]

Levelers, adding weight, and index pin

I've just set up my new PM3250B, and I have three questions:

1. Have any of you found the levelers to be a little light weight? It seems like a lot of quivering weight to be sitting on four 3/8 inch bolts. Has anyone replaced them with something more substantial?

2. Have you needed to add weight, and if you did, how much did you add?

3. I've read criticism of the springloaded spindle lock. Doesn't the screw-in index pin serve the same purpose as the spindle lock? Any harm in using it for that purpose?

Bill

 

[Jerry Hall]

3520b Questions

1. 3/8 Levelers: I have never used mine because I had the same concern. A friend just got his 3520B and we installed them, and slid it around his shop floor. I was surprised how sturdy they seemed. But I didn't like how easy it moved on the smooth, hard, plastic pads. Could imagine chasing it around the shop with a big, green bowl blank. But I might give it a try. I probably will grind some square faces on the end of the threaded rod so I can get a wrench on it to adjust easily and set it well down on the floor.
2. Additional Weight: I have read endless discussion on this. It appears some do and most don't and it has worked fine. A friend has bolted his to the floor and likes it. Others have installed casters and that even works for them. I have a rolling cabinet I stick under my lathe, and won't willingly give up the space. I also won't give up the foot and knee room I need for a comfortable turning stance. You might read the "Caster" links in the first post under "Moving and Delivery." I especially like Gary Ljostad's caster plus leveler solution in the second link. I am starting to put a set of those together. I think you should give the stock levelers a try, get some experience and go from there. The Mustard Monster is a very stable lathe, if all four feet are well planted on the floor.
3. Spindle Lock: I have an "A" model, and no index pin. But I would doubt that pin is beefy enough for locking the spindle to remove a large tightly attached fixture or chuck. Most owners have put pins of some sort thru the shield of the spindle lock and then slip something in between the pins and the lock button to hold it in place. I used two cotter pins and 1" x 1/8 bar stock, with a loop bent in one end and that is long enough to cover the on switch so I won't forget. That said I rarely use it and two hands usually works. Just be sure you don't bottom out your chuck on the long spindle. Most users make some washers (mine are just 1/4" mdf) to make sure the chuck doesn't bottom and get stuck. Some people have even broken the spindle lock trying to get a stuck fixture off. Read the "Spindle Lock" discussion above in the first post for more perspectives on this issue.

Hope this helps. If you still have some questions you might post it on the main forum as it is more widely read and there is a lot of great knowledge out there.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Fine Wood Working Magazine's PM3520b Review Video

The June 2007 issue of Fine Woodworking has a review of "Heavy Duty Lathes" and their web site has a five minute video featuring the Powermatic and the Nova:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=28509

The Mustard Monster came out "best overall" in the price range evaluated.