Efficiency
Matt: Efficiency is a very contoversial subject, as I have found through my postings in other forums. The camp seems to be divided between those who sell pens, and want to make a little money, and those who make pens for their own satisfaction, whether they sell any or even recover their costs when they sell pens.
Then there are a few, like me, who can wear more than one hat! Sometimes I am the artist, and sometimes the businessman.
Let me start by stating that I can make a $20. slimline based pen in about 15 minutes. I say "based" because I don't make the skinny and straight barrels. For that matter, I don't like big bulges either. Just my taste. These pens get a good finish, not just a quick and dirty rub with a friction polish.
I live in a low income area, and most people will not buy expensive pens. Most do not buy fountain or rollerball pens either. These slimline based pens sell for $20-40, depending on the wood, shape, amount of work, etc. Given that kit, wood, and other supplies usually run me about $5. per pen, and adding for overhead, etc. I can make upwards of $30 per hour making these pens. I figure time spent is sales as chargeable too...
I make pens in batches. After I decide what type of kit I am going to work on, I select the wood. I usually keep a number of cut blanks on hand, but sometimes I have to cut some wood. My blanks are usually 3/4" sq by about 5". I cut the blanks to fit the tubes, and rubber band them in pairs after marking the center cut with a carpenter's pencil. It takes about a minute to drill a set of blanks.
I drill a number of blanks at a time, rubber banding them again. I try to glue in the tubes in batches too, usually 10-20 sets, since that is the size package of most of the pens I buy. I use epoxy. The problem with pen insertion tools is that they cost money, so most people have ONE. I use tapered UHMW rods, and have several on hand. Even when the epoxy sticks to them it is easy to peel it off after it dries. Takes 1-2 minutes to sand and glue the tubes in the blanks. Then I sand the ends until I am very close to the tube, and finish squaring with a jig I made. It is like a pen mill, but uses REPLACEABLE sandpaper.... no sharpening needed.
When time comes to turn the barrels, I mount a set of blanks on a mandrel and turn it. Sealer at 400 (blonde shellac...) and continue sanding to 2500. I use MM for plastic and wood only when needed. Even at a slow speed, it takes only a few minutes to turn the blanks.
Then I apply the first coat of finish. While this dries, I mount the second, and maybe third, set of blanks on another mandrel. I go back and put another coat on the barrels that are on the lathe, AND take the mandrel from the lathe, and put in a rack to dry.
Then I turn the second set, and sand, coat of finish, etc. just like the first one. At this time I put a coat on the barrels that are on the drying rack, by hand, lengthwise.
After I have used all the mandrels, they go back to the lathe in turn for a couple more coats of finish. I do try to give them the best finish I possibly can. Good finish SELLS !!! I like using titanium gold kits since they are much more durable.
Time elapsed? You figure it out! Is this for everybody? NOOO! Do I recommend my system? NO, how you make pens or any other object is up to you!
Most of the pens I have taken to the local shows are slimline based, cigars, and European. Most of my pens are under $50. No pencils. No key rings either.... they look too much like a pen, and I would have to sell them cheap to sell them at all. Since they look like a pen, I have a hard time justifying the price of the pens.
Ebony and Bethlehem Olive Wood, Ti slimline kit, sold for $40 at my last show.
) I am learning from my custom sales that the pens that I think are cool don't sell well ( Gentlemen's pen from CS being my favorite ). I do the best with the European (mont blanc) and the Cigar Pen, both in platinum. It still takes me about an hour to crank one of these out. 
