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Need help,

Discussion in 'Woodturning Discussion Forum' started by Glenn Lefley, Aug 1, 2020.

  1. Glenn Lefley

    Glenn Lefley

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2017
    Messages:
    396
    Location:
    Invermere, British Columbia
    I would like to inset gorgeous Burl pieces in turned bowls. I have numerous Burl slices about 3/16 thick by 8 inch by 20 inch. High end Burl veneers. I would like to dye and then inset into Outside of turned bowls. Any help on how I would go about this with router setup or something else, on or off the lathe. I’m thinking a jig on lathe to carve the square or other shape in which these pieces can be glued in. I have vacuum set up for veneering . Has anyone out there did this and give me some advice on how to do it. Here is a rather crude drawing. I have almost every tool a shop could have except a CNC. 1C3F9134-6854-4E2A-BA03-621D270EF3D2.jpeg
     
  2. Mike Johnson

    Mike Johnson

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    Nebraska
    One way would be to turn the bowl to final shape, on the lathe cut a groove the width and depth required for the burl veneer pieces and veneer pieces in between the burl pieces, and glue them into the groove with a quality wood glue or epoxy. Tighten a strap around the veneer ring and let it dry and finish turning the bowl, sand it and finish it. This will require precise measuring and cutting of the veneer pieces to fit properly in the "groove". They do make veneer strips in rolls which would be easier to cut a continuous length to glue into the "groove". The width would be uniform and not require as much measuring, cutting and fitting of individual pieces. The other consideration is the border around the burl veneer pieces, many designs use a accent color around each veneer inlay piece to frame the burl and draw the eye to the individual designs. Getting each outline the same dimension will be a challenge, some turners use colored epoxies to fill in grooves or spaces on a piece, your burl veneer pieces would need to be perfectly aligned any errors in alignment and the eye will see it quickly.
     
  3. Richard Coers

    Richard Coers

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    Location:
    Peoria, Illinois
    The most critical will be the shape of your bowl and that 3/16 thick material. I hardly ever turn a bowl with straight enough sides to pull that off. If I was doing it, I would make the bowl from 3 rings. Top, bottom, and accent ring in the middle. The accent ring would be done as segments with the burl laminated to the segments before cutting and gluing up.
     
  4. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    Just a suggestion.
    Do a platter rim to learn on. The rim can be turned wide and flat. Then you can you can route inlay the burl tiles.
    Another advantage of the platter is you see all the tiles at once

    a near flat topped HF would be a good second step.


    veneer needs to go on a Surface that is flat in at least one dimension.
    I can put flat sandblast resist on most bowl curves because the resist I use stretches a little bit. Veneers don’t stretch.

    the curvature a bowl will keep the veneer from laying flat so it will need a cylindrical or cone shaped band to put the veneers in - sort of what @Richard Coers was suggesting

    On a curved bowl you can make flat bottomed recesses of the veneer. Like drilling flat bottomed holes for cabochons. You can also route or cut a raised area into flat areas for the veneers.
     
    Gerald Lawrence and Ed Davidson like this.
  5. charlie knighton

    charlie knighton

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    virginia
    I think Malcom has done something similar, but it was all segmented except for the burl.....maybe he can chime in
     
  6. Gary Beasley

    Gary Beasley

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    Sep 12, 2017
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    Location:
    Marietta, Georgia
    Seems that would use a similar technique to putting in a pewa. Look it up and see if it helps.
     
  7. Don Wattenhofer

    Don Wattenhofer

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2018
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    Ponsford, MN
    This method uses a Delta cross slide with a small router mounted such that the drill bit can be cranked into the wood. The bit shown was originally intended for euro hinge installation. The hole does not need to be very deep and the plug can be turned by making a friction chuck (a piece of wood with a flat faced round of a diameter smaller the the plug and sticky back sandpaper on it). The pre flattened material is roughly cut into a circle then sandwiched between the friction clutch and a flat faced tip on your live center, then carefully true the diameter with a slight taper to give a flawless fit between the host wood and the plug. When the plug is glued in place it can be turned off flush.

    rdinlay.jpg
     
    Ed Davidson likes this.
  8. Brandon Sloan

    Brandon Sloan

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    Mar 7, 2019
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    Location:
    Victoria, Texas
    The explanation was really clear, and then I got to that drawing. Confusion sets in, laughter ensues. It’s funny because I draw just as good.
     
    Ed Davidson likes this.
  9. Glenn Lefley

    Glenn Lefley

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    Location:
    Invermere, British Columbia
    I know eh. But here is a picture ( I finally found it, they do say a picture is worth a thousand words, not a drawing is worth a thousand words) , But it’s almost the same as my drawing, at least in my head. How is it done!!! It is only a 10 inch bowl with a good curve. Do you think it was done like a pewa insert only radius in one direction.

    I don’t know who turned this, if anyone knows let us know please. 97172426-4E31-4261-8686-C603634EB7D4.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
  10. Glenn Lefley

    Glenn Lefley

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    Alas. I found out who turned this, if I’m lucky he will chime in and help me out! Paul Petrie, Jr.
     
  11. Ed Davidson

    Ed Davidson

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    The price of that piece ($650) may be a good indication of the difficulty in pulling off this technique. Good luck with your quest...
     
    charlie knighton likes this.

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