Does any one know how Mahoney oil finish stands up with repeated washing and drying? I like the feel on this finish, and have been "topping off" my Danish oil finish (which I know will withstand many washings without change), with Mahoney oil. Wondering what MO alone will do with 2-6 coats, Gretch
-
Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details) -
Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details) -
Congratulations to Keven Jesequel for "Big Leaf Maple" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 15, 2024 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Mahoney walnut oil finish
- Thread starter Gretch Flo
- Start date
I also wanted to know if this finish is allergy safe. IE. person with walnut or nut allergies, and how they are affected by it.
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
If they think it's unsafe, they shouldn't take it. Is it safe? Almost assuredly, as the allergen is to protein, not fat. The cold-pressed stuff might have the odd trace of protein initially, but a solvent-extracted oil, such as used in paints, will leave the protein behind.
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~aair/nuts.htm
http://www.asthmacasestudies.org/patients/publicedmat/tips/foodallergy.stm
http://www.aaaai.org/aadmc/ate/category.asp?cat=1057&s=180&keywords=
Et cetera et cetera.
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~aair/nuts.htm
http://www.asthmacasestudies.org/patients/publicedmat/tips/foodallergy.stm
http://www.aaaai.org/aadmc/ate/category.asp?cat=1057&s=180&keywords=
Et cetera et cetera.
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Messages
- 95
- Likes
- 0
- Location
- Gladstone, Mi (the UP)
- Website
- www.woodstoppers.com
If there is anyone in the field/art/craft of woodturning that would be more than happy to answer any and all of your questions about anything, it is def. Mike Mahoney! Check out his website and shoot him an email (find his email address on his site). He will give you the straight story on his finishes!
http://www.bowlmakerinc.com
http://www.bowlmakerinc.com
Gretch,
I have done a number of bowls with Mahoney's walnut oil. I can't speak to the allergy aspects. With regards to washing, we have a salad bowl that we use every week that was treated with it. It's been about a year and a half since I treated it, and it is still doing well.
This was a bowl that I originally treated with a vegetable oil. Between that and the cream based dressings we use, it started getting funky. So I sanded it way down and treated it with the walnut oil, and no problems ever since. Hence I've used it on everything.
The wood tends to suck up a lot of the walnut oil. I do like to let the piece sit for a couple months so the oil can set up before I use it/wash it.
I have done a number of bowls with Mahoney's walnut oil. I can't speak to the allergy aspects. With regards to washing, we have a salad bowl that we use every week that was treated with it. It's been about a year and a half since I treated it, and it is still doing well.
This was a bowl that I originally treated with a vegetable oil. Between that and the cream based dressings we use, it started getting funky. So I sanded it way down and treated it with the walnut oil, and no problems ever since. Hence I've used it on everything.
The wood tends to suck up a lot of the walnut oil. I do like to let the piece sit for a couple months so the oil can set up before I use it/wash it.
If you talk to Mike Mahoney, he will tell you that he uses two quick applications and sends it off to the galleries. Sometimes his bowls arrive a little damp with oil.
Last edited:
Thanks
Thanks Martin-that was the answer I was looking for. While the pro's seem to play down finishes that are durable for washing, (maybe because they are on the mantel!!!), and remark about getting its own patina with use (Raffan)etc., I would like the piece to look like it did when they bought it or I gave it. While the label on Mah. oil finish says durable, I wasn't totally convinced it meant multiple washings!!!! As always, AAW members are great!!!! Lately I have been wet sanding with cheaper mineral oil on somewhat green small pieces-once turned-(sure seems to help splitting) and after drying, use Danish oil to bring up a little shine, and then Mahoney;s to finish it off so that it isn't too shiney, but satiny.If the wood doesn't have the soft feel I like, I put back on the lathe and wet sand using 800 grit with Mahoney's. On more "artistic" pieces with bark that might not get the multiple washing use, I have been using Mahoney's only. I just haven't washed them!!!!Gretch
Martin Braun said:
Thanks Martin-that was the answer I was looking for. While the pro's seem to play down finishes that are durable for washing, (maybe because they are on the mantel!!!), and remark about getting its own patina with use (Raffan)etc., I would like the piece to look like it did when they bought it or I gave it. While the label on Mah. oil finish says durable, I wasn't totally convinced it meant multiple washings!!!! As always, AAW members are great!!!! Lately I have been wet sanding with cheaper mineral oil on somewhat green small pieces-once turned-(sure seems to help splitting) and after drying, use Danish oil to bring up a little shine, and then Mahoney;s to finish it off so that it isn't too shiney, but satiny.If the wood doesn't have the soft feel I like, I put back on the lathe and wet sand using 800 grit with Mahoney's. On more "artistic" pieces with bark that might not get the multiple washing use, I have been using Mahoney's only. I just haven't washed them!!!!Gretch
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Messages
- 95
- Likes
- 0
- Location
- Gladstone, Mi (the UP)
- Website
- www.woodstoppers.com
I make primarily utility items from bowls to knitting needles. Walnut oil in general is an excellent finish IMHO. You will not get the nasty chemical smell of danish or polymerized tung oil (off the shelf "tung oil"). Walnut oil WILL dry, unlike mineral oil which will evaporate over time. This is something to keep in mind if you are going to give stuff away, sell it, or display it. I displayed some things at a craft show recently on a HOT and very sunny day. Bowls I had turned 9 months before (and finished instantly) were weeping walnut oil. People were a little suprised to pick one up and find their hands all oily. When I told them it's just walnut oil, no one cares. Having a roll of paper towel handy was critical I found! I have also found that repeated washings will leave the bowl looking a bit dry once in a while. Another shot of oil and it's right back to that finished look. Try buffing a walnut oil finish too. I only samd to 400 grit with water misting between coats. Buffing after the walnut oil makes the bowl feel like 1000 grit! My vote def goes to walnut oil for just about everything.
Gretch I have a set of six plates and six salad bowls made of walnut. These are also finished with Mahoney's walnut oil. It has been over a year and they are still fine. The wife washes and dries them right away. We use these 3 or 4 times a week and especially when company comes over. They are amazed. Once they are oiled I let them set for about 3 months before using.
I also use walnut oil as my primary finish for utility items. At first I was using Mahoney's Oil, but now just use regular walnut oil from the grocery store. Not enough time has passed to notice a difference, but I've heard that the regular stuff doesn't harden as fast or last as long as the oil after it's gone through Mahoney's heat treatment.
Anyone walnut oil users out there noticed a difference?
Anyone walnut oil users out there noticed a difference?
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
Read the label. Some oils have additives to retard "spoilage." That's oxidation, which is what we want it to do. Warm and ventilated will do for it eventually, with a bit of sunlight a definite help.
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Messages
- 95
- Likes
- 0
- Location
- Gladstone, Mi (the UP)
- Website
- www.woodstoppers.com
oil spoilage
One thing about the walnut oil... apparently it can go rancid and is really nasty when/if it does. I have read it does and others say it will not. I have a 5 gallon pail of the stuff and have not had a problem .... YET. maybe someone knows more about this aspect of walnut oil.....
One thing about the walnut oil... apparently it can go rancid and is really nasty when/if it does. I have read it does and others say it will not. I have a 5 gallon pail of the stuff and have not had a problem .... YET. maybe someone knows more about this aspect of walnut oil.....
I had a chance to talk to Mike up in Portland about his oil. I also have been using it. He said that the stuff in the stores has been pasteurized. This much heat will break down the molecules that cross link to make the finish harden. He does heat his, but not that hot. I was using store oil until I got some of his. I don't know if there is that much difference. The stuff from the stores will harden, but I think that it takes a bit longer. Shelf life is from 1 to 3 years. You can refrigerate after opening.
robo hippy
robo hippy
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Messages
- 95
- Likes
- 0
- Location
- Gladstone, Mi (the UP)
- Website
- www.woodstoppers.com
I talked to Mike Mahoney last night. One thing he stressed was that an oil finish such as walnut oil will penetrate the wood. It is not a membrane finish and therefore will NOT wear off. This is critical with utility pieces because they are washed and banged about by silverware, knives, etc which will break through the membrane finishes and cause them to fall off, lacking a better term. An oil finish is embedded within the wood itself. So with repeated washings and use, the oil remains in the wood. One only needs to reapply a bit of oil to bring the piece right back to looking new again, should the piece start to look dry or worn. If you reapply a membrane finish on top of the old, worn membrane finish, it looks like dirt because you have actually lost pieces of the old finish and you now have uneven layers. He is also not a fan of chemical drying agents such as benzene, etc... and compared this to smoking cigarettes... gonna kill you at some point. I for one would have to second that. If you look at some of the ingredients in many "food safe" finishes, you will find a lot of chemical additives that are known carcinogens. Sure they are supposed to evaporate over time and hence make the finish "food safe" but some of these take months to do so. Tung oil (polymerized and the stuff you find on the shelf) smells horrible... chemical for weeks! It is supposed to be food safe, but I am sure not going to eat out of bowl that smells like the chem lab... anyway- oil has been used forever. it works and it is def food safe.
Gretch - I also seem to recall reading somewhere that mineral oil was 1.) not natural, it's derived from petroleum and 2.) that it is not as good at preventing bacteria from colonizing as walnut. Let me see if I can dig up some more concrete references to support this fading memory of mine...
Michael, do you recall seeing something along those lines too?
Michael, do you recall seeing something along those lines too?
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
I preach it regularly. You want the detergent to be able to get at the bacteria and lyse them. If they can hide in the oil, you won't get them. Natural enough to like oil, since the outer cell wall is hydrophobic.
Truthfully, first time you casually handle a mineral oiled bowl after getting black garden dirt on your hands, or grease from working the tractor, you'll stop using it. Your fingerprints will tell you what's happening with that chicken juice. If it's got a cured finish, you can wipe them away. With the oil you just spread them around.
Truthfully, first time you casually handle a mineral oiled bowl after getting black garden dirt on your hands, or grease from working the tractor, you'll stop using it. Your fingerprints will tell you what's happening with that chicken juice. If it's got a cured finish, you can wipe them away. With the oil you just spread them around.
Peter,
I have had good luck with Mike's products on utility items. I took my wife to the Louisville Symposium and the only turner she wanted to meet was Mike Mahoney. After seeing his demo I was instructed to make and use wooden plates for our meals. I have made 4 place settings of maple plates and bowls. They still look great. The only food we have found that will stain the wood is strawberries. I don't know why but tomatoe sauce, blueberries all the foods that you would expect troubles with are fine but strawbeeries leave a mark. A quick rinse in soapy water a towel dry keeps is all the maintaince they have needed.
I hope for Christmas to make her a set of 8 of fancy plates for when company comes.
As for Mike Mahoney, our little fraternity of woodturners is full of wonderful and helpful members, but Mike has to be in the top 3 when it comes to energy he puts forth to share his knowledge and encourage other turners.
Frank
I have had good luck with Mike's products on utility items. I took my wife to the Louisville Symposium and the only turner she wanted to meet was Mike Mahoney. After seeing his demo I was instructed to make and use wooden plates for our meals. I have made 4 place settings of maple plates and bowls. They still look great. The only food we have found that will stain the wood is strawberries. I don't know why but tomatoe sauce, blueberries all the foods that you would expect troubles with are fine but strawbeeries leave a mark. A quick rinse in soapy water a towel dry keeps is all the maintaince they have needed.
I hope for Christmas to make her a set of 8 of fancy plates for when company comes.
As for Mike Mahoney, our little fraternity of woodturners is full of wonderful and helpful members, but Mike has to be in the top 3 when it comes to energy he puts forth to share his knowledge and encourage other turners.
Frank
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2009
- Messages
- 3
- Likes
- 0
Walnut oil
I'm sorry I don't know what Mike Mahoney's walnut oil is compared with any old other walnut oil but I have been using walnut oil for finishing my turnings for many years. Here in the UK you can buy it at a supermarket for about $2 a bottle so it's much cheaper than finishes specially designed for turning. It doesn't leave any sticky residue and seems to be well absorbed by most if not all timbers. I've never had it go rancid. the bottle has a "best before" date - usually a couple of years of life - and if it lasts that long I replace the bottle. I've never had it go rancid.
I use it sometimes as a way to reduce dust in the workshop - oil the work before using abrasives and you get a fine gloop on the abrasive paper but no dust in the air.
Also I dissolve beeswax in walnut oil in the microwave, and let it cool off and harden in jars, and use it as a final polish.
If I want a more shiny finish, I wipe off all the excess walnut oil and use the Hutt wax finish or other hard wax finish on top, and that looks good.
People always seem to like sniffing turned work [why is that?], and walnut oil imparts a pleasant smell.
I always tell people that a bowl is finished with walnut oil so that they can take precautions if they have allergies. To say something is finished with "walnut oil" sounds pleasant and "woody" for people who take my work, compared with saying that this is finished with "mineral oil." I've been using my salad bowls finished with walnut oil for a long time at home without any problems. Robert
I'm sorry I don't know what Mike Mahoney's walnut oil is compared with any old other walnut oil but I have been using walnut oil for finishing my turnings for many years. Here in the UK you can buy it at a supermarket for about $2 a bottle so it's much cheaper than finishes specially designed for turning. It doesn't leave any sticky residue and seems to be well absorbed by most if not all timbers. I've never had it go rancid. the bottle has a "best before" date - usually a couple of years of life - and if it lasts that long I replace the bottle. I've never had it go rancid.
I use it sometimes as a way to reduce dust in the workshop - oil the work before using abrasives and you get a fine gloop on the abrasive paper but no dust in the air.
Also I dissolve beeswax in walnut oil in the microwave, and let it cool off and harden in jars, and use it as a final polish.
If I want a more shiny finish, I wipe off all the excess walnut oil and use the Hutt wax finish or other hard wax finish on top, and that looks good.
People always seem to like sniffing turned work [why is that?], and walnut oil imparts a pleasant smell.
I always tell people that a bowl is finished with walnut oil so that they can take precautions if they have allergies. To say something is finished with "walnut oil" sounds pleasant and "woody" for people who take my work, compared with saying that this is finished with "mineral oil." I've been using my salad bowls finished with walnut oil for a long time at home without any problems. Robert
Beeswax/mineral oil
[QUOTE=Robert Craig;
Also I dissolve beeswax in walnut oil in the microwave, and let it cool off and harden in jars, and use it as a final polish.
Robert-what is the ratio of walnut oil to min oil?? I have made the min oil/beeswax, place in small 2 oz tubs (Crystal lite drink powder) and give away free to anyone purchasing more than $50 worth of items.
I have been using more and more Mahoney's often on top of one coat of Danish oil, and I would be interested in making the polish. Does it water spot??? Gretch
[QUOTE=Robert Craig;
Also I dissolve beeswax in walnut oil in the microwave, and let it cool off and harden in jars, and use it as a final polish.
Robert-what is the ratio of walnut oil to min oil?? I have made the min oil/beeswax, place in small 2 oz tubs (Crystal lite drink powder) and give away free to anyone purchasing more than $50 worth of items.
I have been using more and more Mahoney's often on top of one coat of Danish oil, and I would be interested in making the polish. Does it water spot??? Gretch
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2009
- Messages
- 3
- Likes
- 0
More on Walnut Oil
I'm not using any mineral oil when I make up the beeswax polish. I just fill a jam-jar half full of walnut oil from the supermarket, and then add chunks of beeswax. Don't fill it right to the top. Then microwave, on medium power, about a minute at a time, stirring between, until all the beeswax has melted into the oil. By that time the mix is pretty hot so take care. Then allow to cool and the polish to harden. Maybe the ratio is 50-50 walnut oil/beeswax. I find it's a pleasant finish.
I'm not using any mineral oil when I make up the beeswax polish. I just fill a jam-jar half full of walnut oil from the supermarket, and then add chunks of beeswax. Don't fill it right to the top. Then microwave, on medium power, about a minute at a time, stirring between, until all the beeswax has melted into the oil. By that time the mix is pretty hot so take care. Then allow to cool and the polish to harden. Maybe the ratio is 50-50 walnut oil/beeswax. I find it's a pleasant finish.
Walnut oil/beeswax
Thanks Bob. will try some. I have a tin can that is a "dedicated" cauldron that I use as a double boiler. then I can scoop tablespoons into smaller vessels. But may try your way for some semi small jars-baby food jars, Gretch
Thanks Bob. will try some. I have a tin can that is a "dedicated" cauldron that I use as a double boiler. then I can scoop tablespoons into smaller vessels. But may try your way for some semi small jars-baby food jars, Gretch
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
Place "up the road" from you in Holland features "Bee's Oil," with its wooden ware. Smells a lot like nut oil combined with the beeswax. NOT a durable finish, rather a treatment with a bit of extra persistence.
http://www.hollandbowlmill.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2
http://www.hollandbowlmill.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2
Beeswax/walnut oil
I would use it or tell people to use it just to "spiffy" things up, esp if it is artistic rather than utilitarian.Michael-would you think it would water spot??? Gretch
I would use it or tell people to use it just to "spiffy" things up, esp if it is artistic rather than utilitarian.Michael-would you think it would water spot??? Gretch
Any of the 'soft' oils will water spot, including waxes. Just add more oil. My 10 year old ash bowl that has gone to all my shows and had everything from ice cream to bar-b-que in is does not water spot any more. All I ever did was the initial oiling.
robo hippy
robo hippy
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
Like the man says, leave the water on it and it will spot. Brief exposures to wipe with vinegar or detergent are ok, but wipe dry immediately. When they're warmed after spotting, you can repair the spots with a fresh treatment. Eventually a salad or popcorn bowl will have its own finish of the oil used for either.
I have never done a vinegar wipe to clean my bowl, mostly just rinse and use a plastic scrubby. I have used table salt and a wedge of lemon or lime which also cleans and disinfects.
robo hippy
robo hippy
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
Citric/acetic, it's all acid, and kills bacteria. Vinegar simply suggests itself by being close at hand where salad is made. Table salt which pours when it rains should be fine, lysing bacterial cells handily. Don't use the unrefined kind with CaCl or you'll end up with a surface that sucks water like PEG.
Last edited: