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Humpty Dumpty

Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
1,186
Likes
1,281
Location
Haubstadt, Indiana
A6E5AB92-B439-4A21-86F2-4503B79A647E_1_201_a.jpeg

Humpty Dumpty sat on my Lathe,
Humpty Dumpty Blew up;
All the king's horses and all the king's men
Couldn't put Humpty together again.

Because they didn’t have Titebond Glue


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717566F7-0E7D-4FD2-AC5B-1525DBB9E7F9_1_201_a.jpeg

The wood is cherry, both the piece and finial. I made a finial from holly with a sphere on top thinking the contrast would be nice. Boy, was that ugly. I also thought of dying finial black, but then decided it would look better matching the chevron pattern. So far only one coat of lacquer, will add some coats. Not painted. I am a terrible painter and you would have seen the cracks. Pyrography. There were really only two cracks that went fully top to bottom. Once put back together these turned into very closed and look almost like grain lines. I did remove the nub before gluing, but left the wall thickness alone. I used walnut to repair the top and base.This was extremely time consuming. I counted the burn marks on a top and bottom of one pedal. There are by my estimate over 95,000 individual burns. The burns hide the cracks. I needed to cover most of the piece. The pattern was drawn by hand with lathe index determining the spacing. I just did this because I wanted to see if it was possible. Since I had so much texture with the pyrography, I didn’t add any to the walnut or finial. Just a different challenge
 
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
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140
Location
Gainesville, VA
I am amazed at the detail and patience it must have taken to do this. "You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din!" I'd be interested in knowing the size of the piece and the reason that you think it split in the first place. I don't see any knots/flaws in the wood. Did it have something to do with the hollowing process?
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
1,186
Likes
1,281
Location
Haubstadt, Indiana
What do they say “never again”. The piece is 10” at the widest and about 12” tall. I believe the reason it broke was the fact I was practicing on how small an opening I could do hollowing. The opening was 1 3/16" and I was using a 3/4” bar. I was trying to remove the nub at the bottom before smoothing the walls. I believe the tool was a little below center and it pulled the bar down under the nub and this caused the bar at the opening go up and basically break the piece. Was only running about 700 RPM and the piece stayed within the steady rest, but in 3 major pieces.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2020
Messages
181
Likes
132
Location
Hoschton, GA
I believe the reason it broke was the fact I was practicing on how small an opening I could do hollowing. The opening was 1 3/16" and I was using a 3/4” bar.

I'm guessing maybe 1 1/4" opening next time? Nice recovery. I agree with sealing something up inside. Maybe a Christmas ornament or a golf ball would be cool.

Sometimes a project fights me and after a while it just becomes the principal of the thing. I hate to let the wood gremlins win.
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
1,186
Likes
1,281
Location
Haubstadt, Indiana
As to the question of why it split I would bet that the dig/catch visible in the right hand view is to blame.

Don, I think the “dig” catch is a result of the tool being too low and went under the nub (nib) and was forced into the side. I was trying to remove the nib when this happened.

I'm guessing maybe 1 1/4" opening next time? Nice recovery. I agree with sealing something up inside. Maybe a Christmas ornament or a golf ball would be cool.

Sometimes a project fights me and after a while it just becomes the principal of the thing. I hate to let the wood gremlins win.

Worst was I was going to make this an urn with brass threads and could have had the access hole 1 1/2” as the brass insert had a 1 5/8” OD.
 
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