Hoping to pick my last lathe

[Don C Davis]

I've narrowed down my choices to the Robust AB, the Oneway 2436 3HP version and the Serious Toolworks 2542. I like the Robust because the spindles and spindle tapers match what I have for chucks etc. and I don't have to use an adapter. The Oneway I've got to use an adapter from 3MT to 2MT on the headstock, and same issue for the Serious,at both ends---plus it's a 1 1/2 x 8 thread which is meaning a large accessory swap out--something I don't want to do at all. So I'm looking for input/advice, especially from folks who have worked on these lathes. The Oneway is the lowest cost by probably by around 2K.

Any advice/input is appreciated-Don

 

[Mike Brazeau]

Don, the MT3 to MT2 adapter would be in the tailstock for the Oneway 2436, not the headstock. It is no big deal. They are inexpensive and easy to remove from what ever used on with a drift key. I have an M33 to 1" 8 TPI adapter for the headstock and Oneway can supply an M33 to 1 1/4 x 8 TPI. I have my Talons set up for 1 x 8 for smaller Delta lathe. If you have Oneway chucks it is simple to replace the tapers. My 3 HP 2436 is 14 years old and absolutely no regrets.

 

[Don C Davis]

Yeah Mike, my bad on the end of that MT-3 taper--I am definitely looking for a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle thread--I wasn't aware a MT3 to MT2 adapter had to be removed via a drift-something else to consider I guess.

Thanks for the input

 

[hockenbery]

My preference is the ONEWAY. If you like the shortbed you can add the 17” bed.
For shear convenience you can turn between centers and put your piece in the chuck on the outboard side.
This involves flipping the switch to reverse and taking 3 steps.

Things that may be of interest for the oneway
1. The #3 taper is nice if you do much drilling. You can get Larger diameter bits with #3 tapers
Also I have a nice jacobs chuck with a #3 taper and it locks in much more securely than the jacobs chucks with #2 tapers do.
2. Banjo is just the best out there.
3. If you want to turn really big stuff get the ONEWAY.


The Robust is a sweet machine. I have had the pleasure of turning on one many times.
If you want a sliding head stock this is the one.

I prefer the swinger on the ONEWAY to get the tailstock out of the way but the robust shock assisted lift is an amazing feat if engineering.

 

[Owen Lowe]

Things that may be of interest for the oneway
1. The #3 taper is nice if you do much drilling. You can get Larger diameter bits with #3 tapers
Also I have a nice jacobs chuck with a #3 taper and it locks in much more securely than the jacobs chucks with #2 tapers do.

A lot of folks looking to upgrade make negative comments about the #3 taper and I just don’t understand it. How many accessories does anyone really mount in the tailstock? Centers and drill chucks are really the only things just about every turner uses on a regular basis. The lathe comes with the famous Oneway live center — the same one that other manufacturers have taken to copying — and drill chucks just require changing out the $10 Morse taper adapter.

A very happy 2436 owner since 2005 (i think).

 

[Owen Lowe]

I've narrowed down my choices to the Robust AB, the Oneway 2436 3HP version and the Serious Toolworks 2542.

Don, why are you looking to 3hp? I was advised to go with 2hp unless I was doing a lot of coring for production speed or pieces larger than 24”. My 2hp has always been just fine with 4-6 times a year that I core walnut, sycamore, and big leaf maple.

The Serious lathe is a monster of a machine. A friend has one of the early ones and loves it. I’m not sure why it has never generated the following that I think it deserves.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

Oneway all the way. And the price. It’s in Canadian dollars up,here. In my opinion. To many things on the Oneway other people have tried to copy.

 

[JeffSmith]

I went with the Robust AB 6 years ago, having spent some time on both the Oneway and the AB. It just felt better. I do prefer the sliding head - use it on nearly everything I turn. The tilt away with the gas shock is also in constant use. I’m 6’-2” - the adjustable legs allowed instant customization. It just feels right to me.

My advice is to spend some time with all three - with a significant investment it pays to make decisions based on personal experience. Both Robust and Oneway have excellent customer service. They both found local (reasonably) people who allowed me to take a test drive with my own tools , chucks and other stuff. Time well spent.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Whatever you choose, go with the 3hp. The way I'm roughing bowls now, I can stop my 2hp... Remember that Omega Lathes are been sold again. Rod Caddeye ships them worldwide, great customer service, and the Australian dollar is a bit down now, making it a little cheaper. I have been drooling over a custom made Stubby 1000 with a 4hp, my name is on her...

 

[john lucas]

I often use the same accessories in the headstock and tailstock and it's very frustrating every time i use a Oneway Lathe. Had they gone with a #3 morse taper in the headstock as well might have made a difference to me but then they would have had to go to a larger thread on the headstock end which also might have made a difference.

 

[Don C Davis]

Thanks for the input folks, I just learned last evening that Serious is going to go out of business. At this time they have 2 lathes only, but would be willing to sell one for 6k--I don't think this is going to impact my decision much however, on the Serious the 1 1/2 x 8 spindle thread is an issue to me, I've got 7 chucks that are all threaded 1 1/4 x 8 and I don't want to deal with an adapter on the headstock, and they also have 3 MT tapers-another negative to me--The Oneway is getting a lot of attention from me right now--I don't care for the #3 MT in the tailstock, but as someone mentioned I think I could just buy new tapers for my Jacobs chucks and few other pieces I use in the tailstock--I hope that I could find a #3 to 2 MT adapter that I could just put into the tailstock.
I currently have a Laguna 24-36 which has 3 HP and when roughing a bowl I can stall it easily--my other lathe is interestingly a NOVA DVR XP and I have it wired to 220, which is supposed to give it 2 HP, and that one doesn't stall on me......I like that Robust is American Made, and the tapers and spindles fit my desires with 2 MT2 in the headstock and tailstock and a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle--I likey.
I hadn't thought of the Omega lathes, but I will spend some time checking them out. I am wide open to other recommendations as well BTW, but I think I'm down to the Robust or the Oneway..Thanks again folks!

 

[hockenbery]

that I could find a #3 to 2 MT adapter that I could just put into the tailstock.

They won’t stay in the tailstock because they get ejected when the ram is backed up.
Also to get a Morse taper out them you need to use a drift pin ( see the slot in the phot below) or a big screw driver to pop the taper out. The sleeve effectively transform a #2 taper Jacobs to a #3 taper Jacobs until you remove the sleeve.

Oneway and most woodturning equipment sellers have #3 to #2 adapter. It is is sleeve that fits over the Morse taper. I have several. These are cheap enough to dedicate to a Jacobs chuck and just leave it on. It will be ejected by the tailstock with the #2 taper remaining inside.. They do make the item stick out of the tailstock 1-2” inches more.

The ones I have run really true.



There are also #3 to #2 adapters which also act like extensions.
These add 4-5” extension for the spindle.
I use a #2-#2 extension when I need to get a spur drive into a cavity in a blank

 

[Roger Chandler]

Don, you will find out that you can stall any 3 hp lathe with heavy cuts. I have turned on the Robust American Beauty, with 3 hp motor and stalled it ......same about the Oneway! I have a friend who has a Oneway 2436 3hp, and he can stall it out with a heavy cut.

I have two 3 hp lathes, and have stalled one of them with a heavy cut. My G0800 I have not stalled yet, but I have no doubt if I tried I could. That being said, the setup on that lathe on the lower belt setting is specifically to give extra torque at low speeds, which so far with a few really big pieces that were heavy, I have not stalled it, and it has powered through the cuts. I know that if I really put the tool to the wood with a very heavy cut, it would let me know about it!

 

[Bill Boehme]

Don, you will find out that you can stall any 3 hp lathe with heavy cuts. I have turned on the Robust American Beauty, with 3 hp motor and stalled it ......same about the Oneway! I have a friend who has a Oneway 2436 3hp, and he can stall it out with a heavy cut.

I have two 3 hp lathes, and have stalled one of them with a heavy cut. My G0800 I have not stalled yet, but I have no doubt if I tried I could. That being said, the setup on that lathe on the lower belt setting is specifically to give extra torque at low speeds, which so far with a few really big pieces that were heavy, I have not stalled it, and it has powered through the cuts. I know that if I really put the tool to the wood with a very heavy cut, it would let me know about it!

To amplify what Roger said about stalling the motor, the power output is proportional to the speed when using electronic speed control. So, at half speed the power is half of the full speed power. On top of that, it is difficult for the inverter to maintain speed regulation near minimum speed.

 

[Don C Davis]

Guys, I hate to even say it because you traditionalists will probably rant on me for using this tool, but I rough turn most all my bowls with either a scraper or a 18mm Carbide round cutter-----but having said that with a round carbide cutter you really don't have that much surface area in contact with the wood--I would say a deep cut for me is about a 1/16"--how does that strike you folks--I found it interesting that my NOVA DVR XP doesn't stall like the Laguna 24-36 does--which is 3 HP. Simply said I don't think I take big cuts when roughing especially compared to my mentor Nick Cook and other pros I've seen turn. So I am disappointed that the REVO stalls as it does. At this point I can't determine if the Robust is worth the additional $ over the Oneway. I found negative intel on the Omega/Stubby lathes at this time.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Don, you're not alone. Most all of my roughing cuts are not much different than my finishing cuts. It takes a lot longer than hogging out the wood, but I'm not in a fast turning contest with anybody. Besides, making gossamer wisps of wood is half the fun. For me, the only thing that requires power is coring.

Take the Laguna marketing with a grain big block of salt. If you look at the full load electrical current of the motor on your lathe and then compare that to what you see in the Grainger catalog you'll see what I mean.

 

[hockenbery]

At this point I can't determine if the Robust is worth the additional $ over the Oneway.

Seems like an easy decision point.

Get the ONEWAY unless you want a sliding headstock. If you want the sliding headstock get the Robust.

Also it’s a small point but 3 belt pulleys on the ONEWAY give you more speed control than 2 pulleys and more torque.
Probably only noticed with big work.

If you want to change lathe heights often get the Robust.
It takes a close to 30 minutes to change the height of the ONEWAY
Less than 10 minutes maybe 5 to change the height on the Robust AB.
For most people they set it once and done.

Nothing wrong with using scraping. Most gouge users do some scraping with the gouge.
Scraping makes more resistance than a gouge cut and it tend to be a bit more tiring on the body.

 

[JeffSmith]

It’s my understanding that the two pully setup on the Robust is the same as the high and low settings on the three pulley setup, effectively covering the same speed range of the three pully setup. Perhaps there is a very slight difference, but I doubt its going to be noticable. I’ve used both versions - mine was among the first produced with the new pully/Leeson motor/headstock casting back in 2012 and I find virtually no difference from the older design.
All were altered to accommodate the new design of the Leeson 3hp motors that were altered for greater efficiencies - that motor is a beast.

 

[Bill Boehme]

... Also it’s a small point but 3 belt pulleys on the ONEWAY give you more speed control than 2 pulleys and more torque.....

The assumption that three speed ranges means greater torque than two speed ranges isn't necessarily valid. To get to the bottom of the question one would need to know all the pulley diameters. The type of inverter is also important. A volts/Hertz inverter won't provide the same performance as a sensorless vector inverter ... and not all sensorless vector inverters are created equal. Any difference might only show up on paper and not in the real world.

It’s my understanding that the two pully setup on the Robust is the same as the high and low settings on the three pulley setup, effectively covering the same speed range of the three pully setup. Perhaps there is a very slight difference, but I doubt its going to be noticable. I’ve used both versions - mine was among the first produced with the new pully/Leeson motor/headstock casting back in 2012 and I find virtually no difference from the older design.
All were altered to accommodate the new design of the Leeson 3hp motors that were altered for greater efficiencies - that motor is a beast.

I think that I might have the last Robust with three pulleys. Even though moving the belt is quick and easy, I do 99.99% of my turning in the low speed range.

 

[Mike Brazeau]

Yeah Mike, my bad on the end of that MT-3 taper--I am definitely looking for a 1 1/4 x 8 spindle thread--I wasn't aware a MT3 to MT2 adapter had to be removed via a drift-something else to consider I guess.

Thanks for the input

It really is nothing to do it. The drift cost me $6 or $7 and the MT adapter about $12 and that is $Cdn. Don't let something like that get in your way of decision making. Just took a quick shot of using it with my iPad.

 

[Dean Center]

Whatever you choose, go with the 3hp. The way I'm roughing bowls now, I can stop my 2hp...

Blasphemer! You just spent 3 days with Stuart Batty who famously says Mike Mahoney and Glenn Lucas are wrong when they take big, rough cuts because they then have to fix what they've torn up. His smaller but smoother cuts allow him to catch up in the end. You KNOW this, I can't believe you've forgotten already.

 

[Glenn Lefley]

My Oneway belt stays on the Center pulley for most everything.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Blasphemer! You just spent 3 days with Stuart Batty who famously says Mike Mahoney and Glenn Lucas are wrong when they take big, rough cuts because they then have to fix what they've torn up. His smaller but smoother cuts allow him to catch up in the end. You KNOW this, I can't believe you've forgotten already.

I still use a 3/4 Doug Thompson V bowl gouge sharpened my way to rough bowls... Stuart was stoping the Stubby with his roughing cuts too, I will slowly rotate to his way too, less stress on your body...

 

[Bill Boehme]

I'm gonna tattle when I see Stuart at SWAT.

 

[William Rogers]

Guys, I hate to even say it because you traditionalists will probably rant on me for using this tool, but I rough turn most all my bowls with either a scraper or a 18mm Carbide round cutter-----but having said that with a round carbide cutter you really don't have that much surface area in contact with the wood--I would say a deep cut for me is about a 1/16"--how does that strike you folks--I found it interesting that my NOVA DVR XP doesn't stall like the Laguna 24-36 does--which is 3 HP. Simply said I don't think I take big cuts when roughing especially compared to my mentor Nick Cook and other pros I've seen turn. So I am disappointed that the REVO stalls as it does. At this point I can't determine if the Robust is worth the additional $ over the Oneway. I found negative intel on the Omega/Stubby lathes at this time.

Very interesting. I understand your frustration wanting a lathe that doesn't stall. I would also. For the cuts you describe you shouldn't stall even a 1 hp lathe. I have a friend that has a Laguna 24-36 and he takes heavy cuts without stalling. There must be something wrong with that motor or belt in that lathe and it's not the motor spec IMO. Guessing it is out of warranty or you would have called Laguna. I have the Laguna 18-36 2hp and it takes a heavy cut to stall it. I'm just a hobbyist, The Laguna 18-36 does everything I need in a lathe. I have no desire to try making money at this hobby or turning pieces beyond 16", so buying a bigger more expensive lathe is hard to justify for me. Good luck with your next lathe choice.

 

[Bill Boehme]

The most likely reason for a lathe stalling is due to having the belt in the high speed position while running at low speed. Also, as I mentioned previously, don't believe for one minute that the motor is really 3 HP.

 

[William Rogers]

I have no idea what the hp really is, but if he can turn on the 2 hp Nova and not the 3? hp Laguna something must be wrong with the Laguna. Belt, motor I don't know, but not because the motor is really only 2 1/2 hp. Even if the hp is not 3 hp I would suspect it would be more than 2 hp.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have no idea what the hp really is, but if he can turn on the 2 hp Nova and not the 3? hp Laguna something must be wrong with the Laguna. Belt, motor I don't know, but not because the motor is really only 2 1/2 hp. Even if the hp is not 3 hp I would suspect it would be more than 2 hp.

The inverter nameplate should tell the story.

 

[Richard Coers]

I bought my last big lathe in 1998. Oneway 2436. It's been a magnificent machine! It's paid for itself several times over.

 

[hockenbery]

I have no idea what the hp really is, but if he can turn on the 2 hp Nova and not the 3? hp Laguna something must be wrong with the Laguna. Belt, motor I don't know, but not because the motor is really only 2 1/2 hp. Even if the hp is not 3 hp I would suspect it would be more than 2 hp.

I tend to agree but there are some things to consider

The Nova DVR is a direct drive so I suspect It delivers fairly consistent torque across the speed range.

The Laguna will have different torque depending on pulley and speed.
It might also have larger work on it as well.

 

[Don C Davis]

Well folks, I am running the Laguna on the low speed range with 'supposedly' higher torque. I am wondering if there is something going on with it---the digital readout sucks, it won't give you steady speed readouts at speeds lower than around 250, this when the pulleys are set to the low speed range--it's way worse when you put it on the high range--no stable readings til it's above 500 rpm's. I've turned on a PN 3520B, A Robust AB, and my NOVA DVR and none of these lathes stalled on me---on top of this issue with the 24-36, the quill for the first 3" has rusted severely--I don't feel a quill should rest this way regardless of how it's treated, and mine has been treated with kid gloves-still retarded rusting. Long story short, I've only been turning on this lathe for a month--have owned it for 5-6 and just got my shop expansion to where I could turn on it, and it's not giving me good vibes at all. I think I'm still narrowed down to selling the Laguna and buying either the Robust AB or the Oneway 2436---However a mate of mine just told me to seriously consider the VicMarc VL-300, he said that will be the only lathe he considers when he steps up....
I am not turning larger pieces on the Laguna-yet-and that concerns me even more, my intention is to turn more stuff in the 18-22 inch range, and I want a lathe that will turn as I'm accustomed to, steadily--not wish I had my benchtop NOVA out where my 24-36 is like I do currently.

 

[hockenbery]

People that own vicmarcs, ONEWAYs and Robust all love them.
They are all fine machines that will serve well.
If you buy any of these machines you will be happy with it.

If you think about your style of turning, what you want to turn, you should be able to score the different machines for you needs,
What works for me as the best solution may not work for you.
Seems like sliding headstock is not high on your list so that likely eliminates the Robust.

Oneway and Robust have excellent customer support.
I suspect vicmarc does too, they just are not common in this area.
I did demo on one last year. Worked great.

 

[Bill Boehme]

If I'm not mistaken the Delta S1 inverter on the Laguna is a basic volts/Hertz type. In simple terms, that type of inverter doesn't have any kind of RPM feedback to stabilize the speed. As a result, the speed is effected somewhat by the load. Also at the bottom end of the speed range it's typical with that type of inverter for for performance to go to pot. The main reason is that the output power is barely enough to overcome parasitic loads (loads that are inherent in the motor itself and in the drive train).

I can't say whether you Laguna is ailing or if it's typical behavior.

One other thought just occurred to me. It could be that the motor is dying. If the motor wasn't specifically designed for inverter duty it can suffer from gradual breakdown of the winding insulation. It's insidious because the process is gradual and may go unnoticed until performance is really bad. It's a vicious cycle where stalling the motor accelerates its demise, but at the same time because it is getting weaker the more easily it stalls.

 

[Don C Davis]

Hockenberry and Bill Boehme, thanks for the feedback--I haven't used the moveable headstock on my NOVA but I've thought about it often--I severely dislike leaning over the bed of my lathe to hollow a bowl for example, I just haven't figured how to reorient the headstock to eliminate that issue.
Bill there's no way that my motor SHOULD be dying, the REVO has literally about 3 hours of use on it. My friend tells me that the Vicmac doesn't change at all under turning load as far as RPM's--having that digital readout is an item I like, which puts a small ding against Robust.

 

[john lucas]

Don Write me and I'll tell you to get your NOva headstock back on center every time after you rotate it. A very simple fix. Actually there are 2, one is to simply buy the double morse taper adaptor from Nova. I have also turned on a Vicmarc 300 and it is an excellent machine.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, a few things here. I was chatting with Bill Grumbine a few years back and he commented that he could stall a VB36. After playing around a bit on a few other lathes, I found out it isn't difficult at all. The larger the diameter, the less cutting pressure it takes to stall any lathe. Speed and pulley range also figure in here. With my 3520A, I was continually tripping the breaker when coring. I eventually figured out that if I cored in the low speed range, that was not a problem at all. I think we also adjusted the breaking feature to 8 seconds from 4 as it would trip with bigger pieces. If there was a 100 hp motor, perhaps I wouldn't be able to stall it on a 12 inch bowl. I would probably be in orbit before I could stall it... I am not as big as Bill, but I could be on the Brute Squad....

Now, 2 vs 3 speed. With my AB, it is a 10 year old one, and has the 3 speed ranges. The low speed range did not go fast enough for bowl turning, only about 900 rpm. Fine for big heavy pieces, but not for smaller pieces. The mid range only went up to 1500. Again, this is too slow for a lot of the smaller bowls I turn. The high speed range I would only use for spindles, and I can't remember if I ever cored in the high speed range, but given my experience with the PM, I would expect the same thing, not enough muscle for coring and heavy roughing. I called Brent, and asked about adjusting the speed ranges because I knew it was possible. When done, the minimum speed was about 10 rpm in the low range, which I use for sanding (3520B and a number of other lathes would turn off at 50rpm which is not suitable for sanding warped bowls). The mid range went up to 2200 rpm and had plenty of torque for coring and heavy roughing, though some times I would like the lower range for heavy roughing because you just can't turn the rpm up for unbalanced pieces on any lathe. The problem with the 2 pulley system, no matter the lathe, is that the high end is too high for heavy roughing and coring, and the low range is too slow for finish cuts on smaller bowls. The motor makes little difference if it is a good quality motor like Leeson, Baldor, or the Nova which really surprised me with the amount of torque it has. To get the best of both speed ranges, some one needs to invent an automatic belt transmission/gear/wheel change set up so it takes a second or two, and not having to shut off your lathe to open a hatch, adjust a screw lever, and flip the belt, and tighten up again, and then start it up again........

I may add a Vicmarc to my arsenal. Only real way to give it a heavy duty test drive. At the Symposiums, they run the event centers on 208 volt current rather than the 220 or 240 that we have in house. I asked the electrician in Portland this year about that, and he said it was geared for the 3 phase machines that come in for big events. This leads to just about any 2 and 3 hp lathe on the floor being under powered. Main reason for the Vicmarc choice is that the head stock spindle mount comes directly off the tower, and not off a cone (Laguna, and others I think) that extends it farther away from the headstock. This feature adds to vibration issues. Basic leverage, the farther it sticks out away from the headstock, like hollow forms, the more vibration issues there will be. You can get rid of most of the vibration issues by keeping the tailstock engaged. Take it off to core, or to finish cut, and you get a lot more vibration. The reason for this cone, and other similar variations, is for 'easier access to the bottom of the bowl for twice turned bowls when you are finish turning them. This doesn't seem to be an issue with the Vicmarc, or maybe more specifically for those who use the Vicmarc. I think it has a narrower headstock profile, which would make that easier. You can also use extended jaws on your chuck. You could also pretty much finish turn the first inch or two of the bottom of a bowl when it is reversed and you are turning a new tenon. Haven't tried that one. The Vicmarc is the only lathe with a pivoting headstock that I would buy. Rock solid on a big post. You get exact location by pulling the pin, moving to next position and replacing the pin. Never have to fine adjust it. I will need a floor mount accessory banjo set up....

robo hippy

 

[Bill Boehme]

having that digital readout is an item I like, which puts a small ding against Robust.

As far as I know, the Oneway and Vicmarc lathes don't have digital readout either. You can get an aftermarket RPM counter for around $50 or so. I know of a few people who added this mod to their Powermatic before the new model that has built-in digital RPM display. Personally, I would rather look at and listen to what I am turning to set the speed. A specific number that is good in one instance won't be right for another.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I'm gonna tattle when I see Stuart at SWAT.

Wait!! I roughed turn a nice Koa blank today. Old habits die hard, but you guys encouraged me to go the Stuart Batty way, all the way. It's definitely a little different then roughing with an Ellsworth gouge, but just as efficient. I will take pictures of the shavings next time, super huge ones, and the thing is, leaves a super nice surface! And, if I don't take it easy, I feel the Stubby bogging down... I finished a bowl that Stu made in my shop today. I started sanding with 180 grit... My face still hurts , I had a smile for hours... I will Post it in the gallery.

 

[hughie]

The only make I am really familiar with is the Stubby and 1000/4hp is a serious piece of machinery . The Oz $ is down to around 30% on the US at the moment.

 

[William Rogers]

Don, if i was experiencing the problems you have had I would also be looking at a different lathe. As far as the readout being erratic I suspect the pickup is out of position. I inadvertently bumped mine and had the same thing. I just re-positioned the pickup and it works fine.
Reed, you keep posting the cone style lathes have more vibration because of "simple lever". I guess I don't understand. The work is the same distance from the bearing. If the bearing is ridged it doesn't make any difference what is behind it. Are you saying the headstock cone is moving? There are a lot of other things that contribute to vibration such as mass that make more difference. My experience is only with my previous PM 90 and my current Laguna 18-36. The Laguna is better at the initial roughing mainly because of a wider stance and being able to add ballast. Once the piece is trued up I see no difference between the lathes. Any vibration difference is undetectable. I just don't buy the theory that the cone contributes noticeable difference in vibration. As far as access I like the cone not only for bowls, but just about anything I turn.