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Hook to allow easier hollow form finishing (painting)

Steve Worcester

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Since I do a bunch of smaller hollow forms, I though I might share this tip that shows how I hold them for spraying. Easy idea, easy to make.

It works for forms that don't have too much of a curved top and openings just below 3/4".

Improvements and further ideas welcomed.
 

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Might need some fiddling with adapters, but a large-enough coupler nut could be ground square to engage the output of a rotisserie motor (~5rpm), for runless spraying. Drilled and tapped square stock might be simpler, though. Tilt the whole affair to about 45 degrees from horizontal, and tape old newspapers over the motor and neighboring targets.
 
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Why wouldn't moly screw ends work? It seems to me that would be a much cheaper way to go, if it would work.

Did you ever try those/
 

Steve Worcester

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Why wouldn't moly screw ends work? It seems to me that would be a much cheaper way to go, if it would work.

Did you ever try those/

A moly would work, but with two fingers you won't hold as tight and is prone to slipping when you move around the piece in finishing. Especially a larger piece. I will experiment with them on those with smaller openings and sizes.

As far as a run , proper gun adjustments and some practice eliminates runs. Most finishes do not work correctly when attempting to spray that thick of a coat. Exceptions being multi part catalyzed finishes like epoxy and polyesters, but those are normally used as base coats because they aren't as clear or buff as shiny as a top coat/clear coat.
Lacquers and urethanes don't work well when sprayed that thick in our home shop environments.
 

Steve Worcester

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Molys do work for the smaller forms but are real hard to get out since they have to be unscrewed completely, flipped over and screwed into and pulled out. Because of the two arms, vs three, it doesn't center as well but still allows unobstructed access to a smaller form whose weight wont shift it around when you "twirl" it.
 
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Steve Worcester

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The modified hones are not that difficult, partially because they are heavier. You can slip them out. The toggles a bit more since you have to turn them upside down and screw the hook back into it. But overall, for the ease of maneuvering them around while spraying, worth the effort.
 
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Molys do work for the smaller forms but are real hard to get out since they have to be unscrewed completely, flipped over and screwed into and pulled out. Because of the two arms, vs three, it doesn't center as well but still allows unobstructed access to a smaller form whose weight wont shift it around when you "twirl" it.

Steve
Let me explain my thought...which I didn't do to start.
"IF" you were to reverse the (molley) toggle so that the ears had to be closed to insert in the object then it would be easy to remove. Then again the object might be to heavy for the toggle to hold.

I see why you use the cylinder hone and I like the idea....just thought the "molley/toggles" would be a cheaper form..
 

Steve Worcester

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Steve
Let me explain my thought...which I didn't do to start.
"IF" you were to reverse the (molley) toggle so that the ears had to be closed to insert in the object then it would be easy to remove. Then again the object might be to heavy for the toggle to hold.

I see why you use the cylinder hone and I like the idea....just thought the "molley/toggles" would be a cheaper form..

Reversing the toggle won't work because as you screw down the rod, I would juts pull itself out. The pressure pushing down on the bottom and up on the top , allow you to hold the rod and move it any angle and upside down, for spraying.
The hones with the rod costs about $6 each, not that much. Real issue with them is forms that are shorter and or have a opening under 3/4" . For those smaller ones, a toggle and all thread is about $1 to make. It isn't that big of a deal to remove the toggles, now if I could find toggles with 3 fingers, I would be set. 3 fingers (as in the hone) are easier to distribute the pressure and don't move around like the toggles when you are flipping them around for spraying. Since I spray in a forced air hood, gloves and a tyvek suit, I don't like unexpected surprises.
 
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Since I spray in a forced air hood, gloves and a tyvek suit, I don't like unexpected surprises.


I agree, seeing your turning flying across the shop and against the wall is not good.:eek:

Thanks again for the great idea which will be very useful even with a rattle can spray job.
 

Steve Worcester

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I agree, seeing your turning flying across the shop and against the wall is not good.:eek:

Thanks again for the great idea which will be very useful even with a rattle can spray job.

It doesn't really go flying , but falling into the small spray booth causes smudges that you can't get out until the finish is dry and can be sanded back out.
 
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