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Hollowing system

Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
56
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13
Location
Carbondale, CO
Ok! Here we go again! Please recommend a hollowing system for a newbie type person but that won’t limit me too much when I have some bit of experience. I don’t have a local mentor.
 
Ok! Here we go again! Please recommend a hollowing system for a newbie type person but that won’t limit me too much when I have some bit of experience. I don’t have a local mentor.

I recommend the Jamieson handle with 3/4” Bosch straight tool and bent tool.
You can get Jaimisons back rest or build one easily from plywood?
As long as you set up the system on level and insert the bars on level it is easy to use and catchproof.

get the large veritas calipers.

you can add a laser or video to this system add the Bosch scraper tools.
This system will do forms up to 9” tall easily. A few inches taller with very light cuts.
You can get 1” bars to fit this handle.

I’ve demoed hollow forms with this system at a bunch of regional symposiums and at the AAW.

the sinner system is as easy to use and similar in capability.
If you want to spend more money the Simon Hope system with the Bosch Bars is a nice set up.
I’ve demo with this system now since it is so easy set for demo lathe heights.
 
I only know what I have and I haven't been using it very long - the DWay tool with outrigger and spring guide. It's simple, one piece really and very stable for me. I looked at several options and decided it was in my price range and wasn't sure how many I would do. I've done about 10 so far and I like it BUT, I have no comparison experience other than fighting with a carbide scraper to make mugs. I've found I can go a little over 6" before I have to watch for grabs at the bottom but that will get better I think with experience and changing the angle of the cutter more.
 
First step would to be go out and purchase David Ellsworth's book on Woodturning.
In there, you can find out how to make your own tools if so inclined.
I am a believer in learning how to hollow without a captured system first. Just to learn how it works.
When you move up to a captured system......see if you can find a club near you and ask if you can try the various systems.
Hugh
 
First step would to be go out and purchase David Ellsworth's book on Woodturning.
In there, you can find out how to make your own tools if so inclined.
I am a believer in learning how to hollow without a captured system first. Just to learn how it works.
When you move up to a captured system......see if you can find a club near you and ask if you can try the various systems.
Hugh

This is really important. I have the Carter deep hollowing system, and it works well, but is heavy. Very heavy. Putting your hands on it is important. I chose the Carter system after using it at a demo booth at the AAW conference.
 
I have the carter hollow roller but only because of availability. I wish I had the availability of stuff up here in alberta that you guys do down there.

I don't really like the one I have. It's movement is smooth going in and out but side to side isn't great and im stuck using carter bars etc because if the design.
 
Ok! Here we go again! Please recommend a hollowing system for a newbie type person but that won’t limit me too much when I have some bit of experience. I don’t have a local mentor.

what kind of lathe do you own?? If it is a full length bed say 36" or more then read my recommendation.

For a new person, you want teaching and support in a hollowing system. Although I don't own his system in full, I recommend the Jamison System for his support and your growth. After you view his videos or attend one of his sessions you will be ready to hollow. Since you are a new turner, he is always just a phone call away if you get stuck. Simple is beautiful, he has what you need in one system. Go to his website and if your curious call him for an inquiry. https://lylejamieson.com/
 
I started out many years ago with the original arm brace tools plus I used the termite tool (ring tool) and a Woodcut system. Then some where along the line I made extra heavy long handles for the ring toll head and the Woodcut head. I then made an articulated system that does the job but the captured systems and the arm brace handle are all slow and produce dust instead of shavings besides all of the set up time involved.

The steps I take to hollow out an endgrain hollow form are:
  1. Bore a 3/4" hole to just short of max depth ( I use a gun drill that has the coolant hole thru and my holder also has a hole thru and a blow gun with air hose quick connect attached to clear the chips).
  2. Enlarge the hole using a detail gouge in a back cutting fashion.
  3. Continue to enlarge the opening using a standard termite tool.
  4. Switch to the heavy handled Woodcut or ring tool when the reach is too far for the standard termite tool.
  5. The Woodcut tool will fill the inside in a matter of seconds and require stopping to remove the chips but you have also made more progress in a very short time.
  6. I have never purchased the curved Woodcut tool so I do go back to the armbrace tool as necessary.
  7. woodcutshavings.jpg This is the kind of shavings you get with the Woodcut.
 
I started out many years ago with the original arm brace tools plus I used the termite tool (ring tool) and a Woodcut system. Then some where along the line I made extra heavy long handles for the ring toll head and the Woodcut head. I then made an articulated system that does the job but the captured systems and the arm brace handle are all slow and produce dust instead of shavings besides all of the set up time involved.

The steps I take to hollow out an endgrain hollow form are:
  1. Bore a 3/4" hole to just short of max depth ( I use a gun drill that has the coolant hole thru and my holder also has a hole thru and a blow gun with air hose quick connect attached to clear the chips).
  2. Enlarge the hole using a detail gouge in a back cutting fashion.
  3. Continue to enlarge the opening using a standard termite tool.
  4. Switch to the heavy handled Woodcut or ring tool when the reach is too far for the standard termite tool.
  5. The Woodcut tool will fill the inside in a matter of seconds and require stopping to remove the chips but you have also made more progress in a very short time.
  6. I have never purchased the curved Woodcut tool so I do go back to the armbrace tool as necessary.
  7. View attachment 35245 This is the kind of shavings you get with the Woodcut.
Got to love the woodcut hollowing tools I use the woodcut flexi hollower and looking at getting the Phil Irons toolgate for better support while deep hollowing
 
First step would to be go out and purchase David Ellsworth's book on Woodturning.
In there, you can find out how to make your own tools if so inclined.
I am a believer in learning how to hollow without a captured system first. Just to learn how it works.
When you move up to a captured system......see if you can find a club near you and ask if you can try the various systems.
Hugh
Complete agreement on the Ellsworth book. It was the first that i bought...before I started turning!
 
I agree with Bill I have the Elbo from Tim Yoder . This is a very reasonably priced system and you can add to it. It will use most boring bars available. Attaches to the tailstock so will fit any lathe.
https://wtwtim.com/elbo.htm
 
Got to love the woodcut hollowing tools I use the woodcut flexi hollower and looking at getting the Phil Irons toolgate for better support while deep hollowing
That toolgate looks like it would be good for leveraging the tool into the side of the opening. It is kind of disappointing that there does not seam to be a US source any more.
 
I won't repeat my prior posts on the subject, but I'm extremely happy with the Trent Bosch system. (I'm using it with the John Jordan tools I already had).

Love the compact storage and the natural feel to the hollowing, much like using the tool freehand, except it doesn't periodically try to break my arm.
 
I searched for a thread to attach this to rather than start a new discussion.
Two weeks ago I attended a class at John C. Campbell with Trent Bosch. I was totally turned on to it and bought several of his tools including the 3/4” stabilizer rig and the laser attachment. I’ve played with it a bit and had the itch to put together a video system using parts I had on hand. Success today as I was able to dig an old laptop out from under the bed (where it’s been gathering dust for about 8 years) and a USB camera. I turned a fitting to hold the camera and fit in Trent’s laser attachment adapter. Hot melt glue took care of implanting it solidly in its fixture. Turned the first sphere on it this afternoon with a 1/2” cutter. I have the laptop in a purpose-built holder, but it’s a bit too high to comfortably watch while giving sidelong glances to the actual piece on the lathe. I’ll have to come up with a stand mount behind the lathe.
 

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I searched for a thread to attach this to rather than start a new discussion.
Two weeks ago I attended a class at John C. Campbell with Trent Bosch. I was totally turned on to it and bought several of his tools including the 3/4” stabilizer rig and the laser attachment. I’ve played with it a bit and had the itch to put together a video system using parts I had on hand. Success today as I was able to dig an old laptop out from under the bed (where it’s been gathering dust for about 8 years) and a USB camera. I turned a fitting to hold the camera and fit in Trent’s laser attachment adapter. Hot melt glue took care of implanting it solidly in its fixture. Turned the first sphere on it this afternoon with a 1/2” cutter. I have the laptop in a purpose-built holder, but it’s a bit too high to comfortably watch while giving sidelong glances to the actual piece on the lathe. I’ll have to come up with a stand mount behind the lathe.
Like you I have a USB camera adapted to the Bosch system. I use this old tripod adapted to hold my tablet. Easy to adjust the height and position.
hollowingsetup-jpg.50819
 
have a USB camera adapted

Darryn, can I ask how you connected your tablet (iPad?) to the camera? I’ve tried but can’t get it to recognize it. Do you use a particular app? Mine works with the laptop, but it’s a bit cumbersome. I do have a couple of old iPads not being used, and that would be my preference.
 
Darryn, can I ask how you connected your tablet (iPad?) to the camera? I’ve tried but can’t get it to recognize it. Do you use a particular app? Mine works with the laptop, but it’s a bit cumbersome. I do have a couple of old iPads not being used, and that would be my preference.
Been a while but I just saw this so will respond. The camera is a usb-a camera. I just got a long usb extension cord and looped it out away from the lathe and up to the computer. It is a MS surface 4 tablet and works great. I just use the camera app that came with the computer. The cheap webcam tends to quit working after a while with all the vibration. I can get another one online for as little as $20 so it isn't a big deal. If I could find a camera less prone to vibration I might put out the extra funds to get one.
 
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